Air box

Rick430

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Hey, I’m really sorry if this is a topic that has been discussed previous, however I’m looking for specific information on this.

So I’ve been doing my homework about what’s the best way to get my CLK430 to breathe better and the most recommended option is to use the CLK55 air box. I’m struggling to find the parts a actually need to do this so is their anyone else that has done this modification? And if so what are the exact parts that I need and are you able to give me the part numbers for each item that I need?
And lastly, is it a direct fit or do I need to make any adjustments to anything? Thanks
 

bigasotonuk

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Hi,
There is multiple pt no required which would read like war and peace as there is so many.
Buying something like I have posted below, taking note of the additional items I have noted to ensure they include it and then fit it identifying any issues or missing pts which then can be searched for individually or buy from MB cheaply as the major expensive parts would already be sourced.
Found this on the flea bay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes...002013?hash=item34264edd1d:g:tMMAAOSwnAJemjqe
You may also need the plastic items either side of the rad where the ducts clip into.
There are also rubber mountings bolted to the rocker covers which you will need.
I think that is all you will need.
As the C43 Engine is effectively the same as your CLK 430, looking at the differences between the two could give you some worthwhile power upgrades.
The C43 has an uprated fuel delivery system, eg, different fuel pump and I believe 55 N/A fuel injectors.
The heads and cams "may" be different but I am not 100% sure on this I did a bit of deep diving in the MB EPC years ago and cant remember what the result was, as there was another forum member wanted the heads,cams and inlt manifold off of my old C43 engine (incidently I still have) for his CLK 430.
 
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Rick430

Rick430

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Hey thanks for the response. I come across this air box on eBay the other day. But for the money I’m not sure if it’s really worth doing as I’m not really bothered about improving the power. So I’ve decided to stick with the original air box and just fit decent panel filters. That with the secondary cat delete and x pipe should give me the sound and maybe a little extra power. It may well be very minimal but anything is a bonus as it’s the sound I’m really wanting to achieve to get the V8 burble;)
 

LostKiwi

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Hey thanks for the response. I come across this air box on eBay the other day. But for the money I’m not sure if it’s really worth doing as I’m not really bothered about improving the power. So I’ve decided to stick with the original air box and just fit decent panel filters. That with the secondary cat delete and x pipe should give me the sound and maybe a little extra power. It may well be very minimal but anything is a bonus as it’s the sound I’m really wanting to achieve to get the V8 burble;)
Look at the rear of your exhaust where it goes over the back axle. If the two pipes from the banks join and go into a single pipe over the axle don't bother with the x-pipe. It won't give any additional power.
 

RhodieBill

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On the Intake side you could always fit a Aftermarket Panel Filter in place of the OEM one. Something like K&N, Pipercross or BMC ect.

I replaced my OEM Filter for a PiperCross Panel Filter, improved response no end!

Of course you will get the "doubters". But it's your choice in the end. If I had kept my 430 I would have gone that route. I think it would have been about £60 for the 2 pieces.
 

RhodieBill

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Found the Video I got the idea from. Basically the same engine/airbox.

The only thing I did was wash out some of the oil as there is a lot on the K&N as well as the Pipercross as I was told that it can get onto the MAF Sensor, which can, not always, but can cause an issue. (But I've never had a problem).

 

LostKiwi

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Don't bother with upgraded panel filters.

They generally don't filter as well, give negligible if any flow improvement and usually just make more noise.
They can also create MAF issues as any oil on them from the oiled filter type burns onto the hot wire or film upsetting readings and eventually destroying it.

The one thing they are good at is emptying your wallet.
 

mioba

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Just make sure your filters are changed regularly with MB originals. the change interval of every 4 years is way too long if you ask me.
 

RhodieBill

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As I pointed out, you will get the "doubters"...

Oh, and guess where that "more noise" comes from? I'll tell you, "Air Velocity". Increased Air Velocity. Simple physics....

And I mentioned the Oil, but it's nice to have it reiterated. Thanks. :rolleyes:
 

Craiglxviii

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As I pointed out, you will get the "doubters"...

Oh, and guess where that "more noise" comes from? I'll tell you, "Air Velocity". Increased Air Velocity. Simple physics....

And I mentioned the Oil, but it's nice to have it reiterated. Thanks. :rolleyes:
No doubters. Simple fact and data. For 6 years I worked with cost and performance technical benchmarking for Nissan. One of the major issues we faced was questions over whether or not aftermarket parts were comparable to our OEM parts, and K&N featured every few months. So, we put it to the test and organised a fully controlled comparison trial. The results of that were that the aftermarket (highly expensive) filters provided negligible performance difference to the OEM ones across the entire speed range; dependent on the vehicle speed & engine revs there were very slight differences (+/- a percent or a few percentage points) either way and that was about it.

What was apparent was due to the more rigid filter material structure, allowed for a drumskin/ resonance effect within the filter box, usually at peak pressure, and this gave rise to the placebo effect.

What also became apparent was that the oiled type filter performance degraded much more quickly over time vs the paper type; the oiled filters would clog more easily.

All of that should come as no surprise. Automakers each spend hundreds of millions each year designing and validating parts performance to tweak the final edge of the cost & performance curves out of their parts. K&N are an aftermarket snake oil trader in comparison.
 


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