the specified speed of the electric oil pump in the transmission was not reach

salam

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I have a 2015 E class premium and this problem started about 2 weeks ago with start and stop …. When I stop the engine stops and I get a little jump and than the stop and start button goes off and won’t work again till you turn off the engine and start it again and same thing will happen again , I diagnose the problem and it come as “ the specified speed of the electric oil pump in the transmission was not reach” and I took it to Mercedes and they are quoting me with £800 to fix it .

please if anyone has any advice regarding this issue or had the issue before , I am trying to avoid spending that much to fix it .

kindest regards .
 

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salam

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In the quote from MB, how much is the cost of the pump shown as..?
I didn’t ask for a break down but they told me it’s 3 hours labour and the rest is for parts .
 

mioba

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Well if your pump is dead then you need a new pump.
Only other way to get the cost down is not to go MB and use an independent mercedes specialist, further still get a pump from a car being broken.
There is always a way given the framework of ones budget.
 

NJS5

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Welcome Salam

Sorry to read of your problem. Your profile is incomplete, whereabouts are you ?

Others will know better than I, but should you be driving the car in this condition? Would it help to disable Stop/Start?

NJSS
 
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salam

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Welcome Salam

Sorry to read of your problem. Your profile is incomplete, whereabouts are you ?

Others will know better than I, but should you be driving the car in this condition? Would it help to disable Stop/Start?

NJSS
I am in Birmingham, I asked MB if I just disable the stop/start feature that won’t cause any other issue but they said it might will . The car drives beautifully and gear box seems fine only when using stop/start that happens .
 

steveq

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2011 Merc S212 E220CDI Estate; Tesla Model 3; 1965 W113 Merc 230SL Pagoda
There is an electric auxiliary oil pump on the MB 7G+ gearbox that maintains the ATF pressure in the gearbox when the engine is stopped during stop/start operations.

Here is a photo of one. It is bolted onto the underside of the 722.9 7G+ gearbox. It is small -- about 4 inches long and 3 inches wide. The photo shows the side that is bolted to the gearbox by the 3 bolts (you can see the bolt holes). The 2 other holes with black tubes sticking out are the inlet & outlet ATF pipes. If it is unbolted some ATF will come out of the pipes - I don't know how much will come out but I suspect a significant amount.
There is also an electrical connection -- that is visible on the top right of the picture. I am sure that MB are replacing the pump with a new one.
The actual problem might be that the electric motor in the pump is not working -- the pump is in 2 halves and is bolted together -- you can see 2 of the small bolts in the picture as well as a line where the pump splits (I have never tried to split one).
The problem might also be the electrical supply to the pump -- I presume it is on a fuse somewhere.

If you are getting it replaced, it would be an opportune time to do an ATF & filter change. As I said above, some fluid will be lost taking the old one off anyway. Also, the pump has to be removed to get at the TC drain bolt.
If you are changing the ATF & filter, make sure that the TC is drained (about half the ATF is in the TC). Also make sure that the correct spec ATF is used (236.15) which is a blue/green colour.
1626962006451.png
 

Jim2

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There is an electric auxiliary oil pump on the MB 7G+ gearbox that maintains the ATF pressure in the gearbox when the engine is stopped during stop/start operations.

Here is a photo of one. It is bolted onto the underside of the 722.9 7G+ gearbox. It is small -- about 4 inches long and 3 inches wide. The photo shows the side that is bolted to the gearbox by the 3 bolts (you can see the bolt holes). The 2 other holes with black tubes sticking out are the inlet & outlet ATF pipes. If it is unbolted some ATF will come out of the pipes - I don't know how much will come out but I suspect a significant amount.
There is also an electrical connection -- that is visible on the top right of the picture. I am sure that MB are replacing the pump with a new one.
The actual problem might be that the electric motor in the pump is not working -- the pump is in 2 halves and is bolted together -- you can see 2 of the small bolts in the picture as well as a line where the pump splits (I have never tried to split one).
The problem might also be the electrical supply to the pump -- I presume it is on a fuse somewhere.

If you are getting it replaced, it would be an opportune time to do an ATF & filter change. As I said above, some fluid will be lost taking the old one off anyway. Also, the pump has to be removed to get at the TC drain bolt.
If you are changing the ATF & filter, make sure that the TC is drained (about half the ATF is in the TC). Also make sure that the correct spec ATF is used (236.15) which is a blue/green colour.
View attachment 69665
Nail on the head. I'd be going with that explanation and course of action too as Steveq suggested
 
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salam

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There is an electric auxiliary oil pump on the MB 7G+ gearbox that maintains the ATF pressure in the gearbox when the engine is stopped during stop/start operations.

Here is a photo of one. It is bolted onto the underside of the 722.9 7G+ gearbox. It is small -- about 4 inches long and 3 inches wide. The photo shows the side that is bolted to the gearbox by the 3 bolts (you can see the bolt holes). The 2 other holes with black tubes sticking out are the inlet & outlet ATF pipes. If it is unbolted some ATF will come out of the pipes - I don't know how much will come out but I suspect a significant amount.
There is also an electrical connection -- that is visible on the top right of the picture. I am sure that MB are replacing the pump with a new one.
The actual problem might be that the electric motor in the pump is not working -- the pump is in 2 halves and is bolted together -- you can see 2 of the small bolts in the picture as well as a line where the pump splits (I have never tried to split one).
The problem might also be the electrical supply to the pump -- I presume it is on a fuse somewhere.

If you are getting it replaced, it would be an opportune time to do an ATF & filter change. As I said above, some fluid will be lost taking the old one off anyway. Also, the pump has to be removed to get at the TC drain bolt.
If you are changing the ATF & filter, make sure that the TC is drained (about half the ATF is in the TC). Also make sure that the correct spec ATF is used (236.15) which is a blue/green colour.
View attachment 69665
Thank you very much for the detailed explanation, do I take this to local repairs centre which will help with the repair ?
My other question is : if I don’t fix this issue as I really don’t use the stop/ start feature, would this get worse and other faults will appear in the near future or it’s ok just to leave it like this?

thank you .
 

Jim2

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Thank you very much for the detailed explanation, do I take this to local repairs centre which will help with the repair ?
My other question is : if I don’t fix this issue as I really don’t use the stop/ start feature, would this get worse and other faults will appear in the near future or it’s ok just to leave it like this?

thank you .
First thing I do when starting the Eclass is to turn off the eco mode, and that switches off the stop start. But even so, if I had your problem with the electric pump in the trans, I'd get it fixed. Regardless of whether its used or not, its an integral part of the system and needs to be working properly. Personally, I would not even drive it until its sorted.
 

steveq

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Thank you very much for the detailed explanation, do I take this to local repairs centre which will help with the repair ?
My other question is : if I don’t fix this issue as I really don’t use the stop/ start feature, would this get worse and other faults will appear in the near future or it’s ok just to leave it like this?

thank you .
I suggest that you bring it to an MB specialist.
The pump may or may not be faulty. It could just be the fuse -- although something would have caused the fuse to blow.

The ATF & filter change is a specialist job too. The ATF is pumped in via the sump drain bolt and the gearbox is brought up to a certain temp and then the excess let flow out to get the level correct.
 

NJS5

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I think Steveq is dead right.

I would take the car to a decent indy, not to MB, and take their advice.

NJSS
 


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