w123 stromberg auto choke

csellers

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Hey guys I'm a newbie :eek:

Can anyone recommend a way forward with a sticking automatic choke ..... e.g. cold starts always =stall, and she sounds rough until warmed up.

The w123 has a stromberg carburettor which has been cleaned recently, and a new vacuuum unit fitted.

Is it possible to buy a choke conversion kit from auto to manual ?? I haven't been able to find one made to fit stromberg. NOt sure if MB ever made one.

Is it possible to just clean the choke diaphragm ...
:?:
 

mandrake

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now then we used to get a few of these cars in the garage i worked at many moons ago. and 9 times out of ten the easiest cure was a manual choke kit . helped no end with starting probs and also the auto choke not coming off giving rich running . i asume you can still get the conversion kit if so get one and fit it .wont be a merc type dont think they ever made one so it will be an aftermarket one . give these a go http://www.carburettorspecialists.com/products.htm
 

mandrake

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now then we used to get a few of these cars in the garage i worked at many moons ago. and 9 times out of ten the easiest cure was a manual choke kit . helped no end with starting probs and also the auto choke not coming off giving rich running . i asume you can still get the conversion kit if so get one and fit it .wont be a merc type dont think they ever made one so it will be an aftermarket one . http://www.carburetters.co.uk/chokeconversions.php try these aha two posts now how did that happen ah well not bothered
 

Number_Cruncher

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Off the top of my head, I'm not sure what the mechanism is;

One easy thing to check is, if there's a coolant pipe running to the automatic choke, make sure the pipe isn't blocked. This fault means that the device is always "on", and the car is then adjusted to compensate at full operating temperature, giving poor cold running.

If there's a bi-metal strip which operates the cold start device, make sure the strip is fixed properly (The centre of the coil can break loose on some auto chokes) Make sure that any ports the bi-metal strip should block / unblock are clear.

I've never been beaten by an auto-choke, and with a bit of care and attention, they can usually be fixed.
 
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csellers

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One easy thing to check is, if there's a coolant pipe running to the automatic choke, make sure the pipe isn't blocked. This fault means that the device is always "on", and the car is then adjusted to compensate at full operating temperature, giving poor cold running.

If there's a bi-metal strip which operates the cold start device, make sure the strip is fixed properly (The centre of the coil can break loose on some auto chokes) Make sure that any ports the bi-metal strip should block / unblock are clear.

I've never been beaten by an auto-choke, and with a bit of care and attention, they can usually be fixed.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for that, I will +my mechanic will both look at this. :D
 
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csellers

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now then we used to get a few of these cars in the garage i worked at many moons ago. and 9 times out of ten the easiest cure was a manual choke kit . helped no end with starting probs and also the auto choke not coming off giving rich running . i asume you can still get the conversion kit if so get one and fit it .wont be a merc type dont think they ever made one so it will be an aftermarket one . give these a go http://www.carburettorspecialists.com/products.htm

Thanks for these websites. Carb hospital wants a serial number for the carb. I can't see one on any part of it. Would you know where it is located ? :confused: Now they're not answering the phone....neither are the other lot in Hornsey. :-|:-|
 

mandrake

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many had the make and serial number stamped on the body of the carb ,others had it on a strip of metal fastend under a screw , but they over the years get lost .my bet is it will be on the body of the carb, if i am not mistaken the auto choke ran off the engine coolant on your carb ,i dont think it was electrical . even so if you can get a manual conversion kit for the carb ,i woud do so as they are more reliable and you will have more controle over how long the choke needs to be on full ,giving slightly better running and economy .
 

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I have a few new carbs that came from the mb training school, also check the choke housing is not loose and the heating element is working.
 

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This is the carb 47 is the choke and 101 the cover on the end

m.mycat


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47 is the choke mech, 101 is the by metalic strip with heating element, 131 is the coolant heating end cap. Normally the levers/plunger housed in 47 stick.
 
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csellers

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thanks all, have got to the bottom of the problem, it was in fact a dodgy recon engine valve making things splutter, shake and sound rough esp. on a cold start. Thinking and hoping all will be well once this is fixed. ...
 


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