2003 R230 SL500 H8DC0 Spark Plugs

DidgeD

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I spent hours last night looking for information on the right spark plugs for a 2003 R230 SL500. I know there's lots of commentary between resistor and non-resistor spark plugs and that Bosch (and even MB) will now supply plugs with resistors in them even where the original equipment didn't. The closest I could find is on this forum in this thread. However, many of the comments that suggest non-resistor plugs are from, or to, members with R129 cars and I understand resistor plugs (without leads that don't have them) is a no-no for those cars. If I understand right, the R129 shares a very similar engine, but did the 2003 R230 SL500 roll off the production line with leads that have resistors in them? :confused:

I've looked through the history on my car and it's never had its leads or plugs changed. If there are resistors in the plugs on these cars then I don't want to fit Bosch (0 242 230 500) FR8DPP33+, as suggested by most motor factors and Bosch if I can find appropriate non-resistor plugs. I simply want to fit what was in there originally - no platinum, 2x, 4x, etc. - but without having to take an existing plug out (as this engine is pretty daunting).

I'm sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, but I couldn't find it searching here or Google.

Any help will be much appreciated!
 
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DidgeD

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Thanks for the reply (and the welcome) Malcolm.

I can find this or this NGK set of 16. I believe the R in the part numbers means that they're resistor plugs. Should I be looking for resistor plugs or something like NGK BP6EFS or BP5ES without resistors?
 

television

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Those in the link are perfect for the 113.963 engine that you have :D
 
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DidgeD

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All this worry about resistor in plug and resistor in lead is for the older cars then? This is typical of me, getting worried I'll cook a coil with too much total resistance for no reason.

Is there a reason you prefer these NGKs over Bosch FR8DPP33 (that I could fetch from the local GSF or ECP tomorrow)? I assumed that Bosch was the orginal equipment, but I've probably got that wrong too.

Completely unrelated... the forum FAQs state that signatures can be changed in the user control panel, but I don't see it. I just want to put my name in there. Do I have to post a certain number of times or something like that?
 
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television

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All this worry about resistor in plug and resistor in lead is for the older cars then? This is typical of me, getting worried I'll cook a coil with too much total resistance for no reason.

Is there a reason you prefer these NGKs over Bosch FR8DPP33 (that I could fetch from the local GSF or ECP tomorrow)? I assumed that Bosch was the orginal equipment, but I've probably got that wrong too.

Completely unrelated... the forum FAQs state that signatures can be changed in the user control panel, but I don't see it. I just want to put my name in there. Do I have to post a certain number of times or something like that?

They are good plugs used all over the world and with 16 of them it was a huge saving over the Bosch plugs, I have had mine in now for 15 k miles and perfect, the joke is the ones that I took out were perfect too, its just MB saying 60k miles or 6 years.

Yes the R plugs do not load the coils

You can edit your signature but you may need to have 30 post before you can do much, Have you been back to user CP
 
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DidgeD

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Thanks again Malcolm for such swift replies.

I can get the Bosch plugs at GSF for pretty much the same cost and not have to wait for them to be delivered. Would you still prefer the NGK plugs on eBay?

I've just checked again in the User CP and there isn't a signature edit. I'll just do it manually for now :)

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David
 

television

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They are just fine, so use them, not any difference on some of these things, so use the Bosch :D:D

In a few post time you will have the facility to change you signature, about 30 post, so just join in some threads.

How do you like your SL500
 
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DidgeD

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I love it! I don't have any kids, so backseats aren't needed for now. And I don't do an awful lot of miles, so I don't really need an economical car. It's not been too bad to keep running, except the ABC pump last year and then a week later a valve block. I'm not really a big fan of relatively new cars, but I am drawn to toys - I'm a bit of a geek - and the SL has loads.

I drove a new SL500 for a week or so just before Christmas and I didn't like it anywhere near as much. I thought the gearbox was awful and couldn't wait to get back into my older model.

I do miss my television since switchover. I already have one of your threads on the subject bookmarked! I will get round to it. I'm particularly after a twin tuner though - I may as well use two of the four antenna leads already there.
 

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I love it! I don't have any kids, so backseats aren't needed for now. And I don't do an awful lot of miles, so I don't really need an economical car. It's not been too bad to keep running, except the ABC pump last year and then a week later a valve block. I'm not really a big fan of relatively new cars, but I am drawn to toys - I'm a bit of a geek - and the SL has loads.

I drove a new SL500 for a week or so just before Christmas and I didn't like it anywhere near as much. I thought the gearbox was awful and couldn't wait to get back into my older model.

I do miss my television since switchover. I already have one of your threads on the subject bookmarked! I will get round to it. I'm particularly after a twin tuner though - I may as well use two of the four antenna leads already there.

Re the TV the twin tuner is a gimmick and no different to the domestic one that I had, I was hoping the same, it only has one EPG, so only one tuner.
 

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DidgeD

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I don't think the plugs in your first link are for your model CL (or my SL). The ones in the second link are though, if you're after platinum plugs.
 
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DidgeD

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Re the TV the twin tuner is a gimmick and no different to the domestic one that I had, I was hoping the same, it only has one EPG, so only one tuner.

I thought twin tuners, like in CKO gear, were for picture continuity if driving between regions - in the background, the secondary tuner would be attempting to find a better signal for what you're watching (or listening to when driving) and if found would seemlessly switch over to it. Are they not that clever?
 

television

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I thought twin tuners, like in CKO gear, were for picture continuity if driving between regions - in the background, the secondary tuner would be attempting to find a better signal for what you're watching (or listening to when driving) and if found would seemlessly switch over to it. Are they not that clever?

No they are not that clever, signals are in bands (groups) so if you have stored say all in group A That EPG is full, the next nearest transmitter cannot use group A through cross modulation problems so it uses group B or C. So if you have driven to a group B area you have to do a complete retune and down load all the channels in this group, very annoying as when you get home to have to do it all again, and put it back where it was.

Where I live I can get both group A and B , all tuners start at group A, when this group is full it scans the group B and finds some more channels, but it cannot do anything with them, so they are deleted during the storing process.

2 separate tuners are the only way, 1 for home use and 1 for when you are outside that area
 

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I don't think the plugs in your first link are for your model CL (or my SL). The ones in the second link are though, if you're after platinum plugs.

Thanks for info, it Does state on the description CL500 plugs however i am always cautious of Ebay.....i will get the plat plugs however i was wondering if anyone knew what the differance was between the 2 types of plugs? over 100% variation in price, must be significant?
 

television

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I do not have the info to hand, I think the other one is for the AMG versions. I will try and check later
 
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DidgeD

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The first link have a centre electrode of Nickel Yttrium and Copper with a Chromium Nickel ground electrode. Cheaper materials.

The second link have a centre electrode of Platinum with a Nickel Yttrium ground electrode. They'll need re-gapping as they come 1.1mm.
 

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I cannot answer this one, maybe someone who can will come on.

Nothing wrong with the original type construction
 


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