LED Question

[Quickbrit]

Hello all,

I've added some LEDs to the front sidelights on my W209 to match the 'white-ness' of my xenons... Job done and they look good (no errors).

I also did the interior bulbs, again brighter and better (again, no errors).

I decided to order a set of rear brake bulbs and reversing bulbs that were advertised as canbus friendly too. When I fit them they both ignite (bright and white) for a moment, then throw up a bulb failure error.

The manufacturer say to disconnect the battery, take out the fuses(?) and then reset the "computer", which sounds like guff to me.

My point (finally) is would resetting those things really effect the bulb's capability to be invisible (as an LED) to the canbus system?

Thanks in advance,

Mike

 

[cleverdicky]

NO.
The canbus has nothing to do with it, even though everyone refers to it and knows what is meant.
The car has various processors that provide various outputs and also monitors those outputs.
Any that develop faults it shuts down, and if need be switches to an alternative.
These monitors know that each bulb will draw or use however many watts of power at the batteries voltage (12v) but anything under - bulb missing or blown, and over short circuit and disconnected.
LED's use a tiny current in comparison to a bulb. Manufacturers who know about the 'can-bus' ad a few resistors to make the processors think the bulb or lED is still there. But these resistors get hot or dont always work or are made with the correct values. Many reasons.
Unless you can trick the circuit your using LEDs in to think its a normal healthy bulb, theres no way around a fault appearing.
Send a pm or have a chat with forum member KillerHERTZ who sells them. He'll help you

 

[television]

Yes just not true and do not bother doing that there is nothing to re set

 

[cleverdicky]

And if you do get any good ones to work, let us know please.
I want some for mine

 

[Troon]

Don't fit LED brake lights to a lamp designed for filament bulbs. That's an insurance disaster waiting to happen to you, as it contravenes the Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations.

You won't get LED bulb replacements that will match the light output and distribution of the higher power filament bulbs, particularly halogen bulbs. At those levels, LED assemblies need to have a lot of heatsinking built in to keep them cool, which isn't going to happen in a filament replacement shape.

Also, if you really must do the brake lamps, use red LEDs not white. Filament bulbs have a large amount of red light in their output; white LEDs have virtually none. Putting a white LED behind a red filter will give you a washed-out pink colour.

If you can get a refund, do so.

 

[Quickbrit]

Thanks guys.

I also just took delivery on a pair or LED fog light bulbs - mostly because they too look very yellow compared to the xenons and the now white sidelights (when I lock the car at night the fogs come on for a while as courtesy lights so it's quite obvious they are yellow)...

The replacements both have inline resistors that have integral heat sinks so I'm pretty sure these will work.

I'll keep you posted when fitted (and add a before and after photo).

As far as the output is concerned the LEDs are far superior to incandescent bulbs. I would like to pursue the rear reversing bulbs as the extra output will help with the backing up I have to do in dark unlit Cornish back roads.

MikeE

 

[cleverdicky]

Would be interesting to know if the sams can be reprogrammed or modded / tweaked etc/ with star to accommodate different voltages / lamps.
After all MB do supply, as do many other manufacturers, cars with LED's in place of filament bulbs.
If it could be, it would negate the need for a dummy resistive load.
Has anyone heard of such a mod or adjustment with star, perhaps in developer mode??

 

[Chrishazle]

I've seen a thread either here or on t'other side about fitting facelift 204 rear lights to a pre-facelift 204, which I believe involved reprogramming something because the facelift ones are LED. I could be taliking through my fundamental orifice here as I know SFA about electrics - but have a search!

 

[Quickbrit]

As it happened the rear bulbs would not work due to their lack of resistance.

I still have a set of fog lamp replacement LED's with the inline (and heatsinked) resistors build in...

I've yet to try them as I've not had time to work out the easiest way to change them (through wheel well or from underneath past the undertray?)

TBC

Mike

 

[drmw]

I got some interior bulbs from this place - spent a bit of time looking through the store & they seem to have a whole shed load of options including traditional bayonet connectors - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/ARGO-CITY-LTD?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

I don't know if they will have what you are wanting, plenty of references to "error free" - but worth a look

 

[Corned]

I also just took delivery on a pair or LED fog light bulbs - mostly because they too look very yellow compared to the xenons and the now white sidelights (when I lock the car at night the fogs come on for a while as courtesy lights so it's quite obvious they are yellow)...

There are very good reasons why fog lamps should be as yellow as possible...

 

[Quickbrit]

With respect, I disagree...

They don't seem up to the job at the moment, my previous CLK and C280 were far better.

The colour won't make that much of a difference, the cut off is perfect but the light output is too weak (as it stands).

Hey, if it ultimately slows me down in a pea souper, that won't be a bad thing

MikeE