C207 E350 CDI just stopped!

Wighty

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2016
Messages
13,434
Reaction score
12,465
Location
Sunny Essex
Your Mercedes
W211/E320cdi/2009 and CLK200k 2009
I'm pretty sure it's fuse F44 , 15 amp which is in the fuse box by the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay
 
OP
Q

quinnj3

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Messages
78
Reaction score
34
Your Mercedes
2010 E350 CDI BlueEfficiency Sport Coupe Auto 227bhp
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #22
I'm pretty sure it's fuse F44 , 15 amp which is in the fuse box by the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay

This was the fault. Some oil had leaked onto the shutoff valve motor creating a short circuit. Mechanic cleaned it up and replaced fuse with 25A (which I don’t agree with). Car is running for now at least. Thanks for help guys.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mattkh

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
3,157
Reaction score
353
Location
England
Your Mercedes
A160 W168 1999 1.6
This was the fault. Some oil had leaked onto the shutoff valve motor creating a short circuit.
But oil is not supposed to conduct electricity according to our well-missed 'television' member.
 
OP
Q

quinnj3

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Messages
78
Reaction score
34
Your Mercedes
2010 E350 CDI BlueEfficiency Sport Coupe Auto 227bhp
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #24
But oil is not supposed to conduct electricity according to our well-missed 'television' member.

This man is correct - for pure clean oil. However it takes very little to make it conductive.

The shut off motor was also a bit sticky which is more likely the culprit tbh.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

RhodieBill

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2019
Messages
1,799
Reaction score
1,262
Location
Central South Coast. (Previously Out of Africa).
Your Mercedes
2001 W208 CLK320 182U ALMANDINE-BLACK METALLIC
Oil is conductive.

I remember when I worked on the Gold Mines in the Free State, (RSA) some of the equipment was fused using Oil Fuses.

Not too sure. (long time ago) but I think it is because they can withstand big current at high voltages - 6.6kv in our instances - all I remember is that they were big things, about the size of a Coke tin!

Another thing you should remember is that the rubber in car tyres is also conductive.....
 
Last edited:

LostKiwi

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
31,324
Reaction score
21,574
Location
Midlands / Charente-Maritime
Your Mercedes
'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
Oil is conductive.

I remember when I worked on the Gold Mines in the Free State, (RSA) some of the equipment was fused using Oil Fuses.

Not too sure. (long time ago) but I think it is because they can withstand big current at high voltages - 6.6kv in our instances - all I remember is that they were big things, about the size of a Coke tin!

Another thing you should remember is that the rubber in car tyres is also conductive.....
Pure engine oil is not overly conductive (Television is correct there). The problem is that old engine oil (esp diesel engines) contain carbon (that's why it's black), water, metal particles etc and that can make it conductive. One method used to determine oil condition is to monitor conductivity - the more conductive the worse condition.

Oil is regularly used as a coolant for transformers.
 

RhodieBill

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2019
Messages
1,799
Reaction score
1,262
Location
Central South Coast. (Previously Out of Africa).
Your Mercedes
2001 W208 CLK320 182U ALMANDINE-BLACK METALLIC
Pure engine oil is not overly conductive (Television is correct there). The problem is that old engine oil (esp diesel engines) contain carbon (that's why it's black), water, metal particles etc and that can make it conductive. One method used to determine oil condition is to monitor conductivity - the more conductive the worse condition.

Oil is regularly used as a coolant for transformers.

So, if I filled a bowl with fresh Oil and electrified it you would quite happily put your hand in it??

I know I wouldn't! :shock:
 

LostKiwi

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
31,324
Reaction score
21,574
Location
Midlands / Charente-Maritime
Your Mercedes
'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
So, if I filled a bowl with fresh Oil and electrified it you would quite happily put your hand in it??

I know I wouldn't! :shock:
If you had two electrodes in it (one live, one earth) then yes (assuming fresh engine oil).
 
OP
Q

quinnj3

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Messages
78
Reaction score
34
Your Mercedes
2010 E350 CDI BlueEfficiency Sport Coupe Auto 227bhp
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #29
This is going off topic a little but I work as an electrical engineer. In one of the quarries we do service work in there is an old oil based soft starter which needs to be wound by hand to accelerate the motor. It’s probably 50 years old and the thought of working at it scares me. The same place has old oil filled contractors as well. I’m surprised the outfit hasn’t been condemned as the electrics are shocking there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
Q

quinnj3

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Messages
78
Reaction score
34
Your Mercedes
2010 E350 CDI BlueEfficiency Sport Coupe Auto 227bhp
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #31
Ok back on topic.

Just got an update from mechanic. The car is going into limp mode. The shut off motor must be faulty. If I go down the repair route the motor is approx £200 labour is £200 and the cold air inlet is £550 (which is cracked). I also need a lower control arm and rear brakes tidied for mot bringing a total spend to approx £1200. Ouch!

My previous car was an Alfa 159 2.4 derv and it had leaking swirl flaps. Instead of replacing the manifold I removed the flaps and plugged them up. The car drove better than ever afterwards. This seems to be a common issue with all derv engines.

I’m considering using a resistor to fool the ecu into thinking the flap motor is connected and just disconnect the motor completely without having to remove it. I can then replace the motor myself at a time that suits. I’m also considering plastic welding the inlet duct as £550 for a piece of plastic is taking the mick big style.

I know this has been done on E320 but I haven’t come across it on the newer E350. Does anyone have any experience of this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Westheath

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2015
Messages
1,487
Reaction score
490
Location
South London
Your Mercedes
Empty garage, awaiting new toy :)
Book it in for a MB Star session with a competent operator and have it diagnosed properly.
 
OP
Q

quinnj3

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Messages
78
Reaction score
34
Your Mercedes
2010 E350 CDI BlueEfficiency Sport Coupe Auto 227bhp
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #33
Ok, I’ve collected my car from mechanics. He doesn’t have the time for a couple of weeks to fit the swirl flap motor. I have already bought the parts required from Mercedes to be fitted. My own garage will be completed now in a couple of weeks so I’ll probably fit this myself.

In the interim I have taken a resistance measurement from the new motor and installed a similar size resistor between the pwm and power connections on the plug in the car. This has allowed the car to be fooled into thinking the flaps are operational and for the fault to be reset. The car is working normally except for some loss of power at the top end. I’m not sure what’s causing this but can only assume it’s because the shut off ports may be closed. I’ll take another look at the weekend and experiment with a couple of different size resistors. Currently I have a 1.5kohm fitted as that’s what the swirl motor was reading but other people are using a 4.7kohm resistor. Maybe this gives a different reading to the car to adjust fuelling at the top end?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
Q

quinnj3

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Messages
78
Reaction score
34
Your Mercedes
2010 E350 CDI BlueEfficiency Sport Coupe Auto 227bhp
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #34
Just to cap this thread:

Yesterday I completed the install of the inlet port servo motor. The old one was jammed solid, probably the gearing that failed causing an over current event to blow the fuse. On the positive side both inlet bank slides / flaps were smooth and free moving meaning I didn’t have to replaced the inlet manifolds. After a complete degrease and installation of the new motor and air inlet bungs I took the chance to do an oil service even though I last done one in November or 6k miles ago. The old oil was still clean (for a derv) with no sludge.

A short 6 mile run to get the oil around the car has shown the engine to be back to full power and actually a little smoother. I suspect the lack of high rev power was due the servo being jammed in the closed position. The auto box is now also a lot smoother.

PS. If anyone is doing this diy as I did, in principle it’s a relatively straightforward repair with just a handful of nuts and bolts however those nuts and bolts are anything but easy to get to especially behind the turbo. Just 2 x bolts took a few hours of head scratching and trial and error to find a method to reach them and apply enough torque to release. One of them took a combination of 2 x universal joints and 2 x extensions to release. Reassembly was more straightforward.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

peterws1957

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2016
Messages
1,822
Reaction score
1,323
Location
Lancashire
Your Mercedes
sl350 /2004/3.7 and CL65/2009/6.0
Just to cap this thread:

Yesterday I completed the install of the inlet port servo motor. The old one was jammed solid, probably the gearing that failed causing an over current event to blow the fuse. On the positive side both inlet bank slides / flaps were smooth and free moving meaning I didn’t have to replaced the inlet manifolds. After a complete degrease and installation of the new motor and air inlet bungs I took the chance to do an oil service even though I last done one in November or 6k miles ago. The old oil was still clean (for a derv) with no sludge.

A short 6 mile run to get the oil around the car has shown the engine to be back to full power and actually a little smoother. I suspect the lack of high rev power was due the servo being jammed in the closed position. The auto box is now also a lot smoother.

PS. If anyone is doing this diy as I did, in principle it’s a relatively straightforward repair with just a handful of nuts and bolts however those nuts and bolts are anything but easy to get to especially behind the turbo. Just 2 x bolts took a few hours of head scratching and trial and error to find a method to reach them and apply enough torque to release. One of them took a combination of 2 x universal joints and 2 x extensions to release. Reassembly was more straightforward.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Good bit of work there!
 

Petar27

New Registration
Joined
Sep 14, 2023
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Your Mercedes
E 350 cdi 2011
Hello guys,
Same thing happen to me.
Under the hood close to brake fluid there are fuses from 1 to 36 so I can’t find f44.
 


Welwyn Merx Limited is a family run business with genuine passion, dedication and 25 years of experience dealing with Mercedes-Benz and AMG passenger cars.
Tel: 01707 395999www.welwynmerx.uk
Top Bottom