Parking Sensor Issues

Luke Powell

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Hi all,

First post for me but I have a good one.

Parking sensors on an E220 2013 AMG facelift

After reading lots of forum threads and watching youtube videos I thought I may just have a faulty sensor because the issue is intermittent, sometimes my sensors work and other times they don't. When they don't work I get no visual or audible notification inside the car, sometimes one light in the display signifying it is ready and sometimes no lights.....other times it works exactly as designed.

However diagnostics are telling us that all of the sensors are actually working fine....even when the fault is happening the diagnostics tool plugged into the OBD is actually displaying that each and every sensor is working as they should, they report good signal and the distance is accurate but I am seeing no lights on the car display.

It is suspected now that this must be a control unit (ECU) issue but before we go down that route I thought I'd check in here first to see if any of you fine people might have had a similar issue??

At least now I know I don't need to hunt for an intermittent parking sensor and start taking the bumpers off.

p.s. the diagnostic did not report one single fault even when the error is happening, which usually means ECU is at fault but I thought I'd check first.
 

John Laidlaw

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Welcome Luke
You haven’t waxed your car recently by any chance ?
 
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Luke Powell

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Welcome Luke
You haven’t waxed your car recently by any chance ?

Hi John, no it seems not to be connected to the actual sensors but more a problem with the system itself. The car has been plugged into diagnostics which actually show both the front and rear sensors are working perfectly, you could visually see the reporting the exact distances to an obstacle so it seems that nothing is impeding their function but the display inside the car does not register what the sensors are picking up.
And to answer your question directly I haven’t waxed the car and this intermittent problem has existed since I bought the car.
 

John Laidlaw

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Thanks Luke, then you’re right in saying it’s something electronic - which diagnostic are you using?
 
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Luke Powell

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I’m not sure of the manufacturer, it was a Mercedes specialist with a laptop based system, very thorough and able to interrogate all the sub systems, luckily he hasn’t charged me for any of the diagnostic work, if I took it to Mercedes I’d be broke by now
 

mattkh

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Hi all,..... I get no visual or audible notification inside the car
I guess the intermittency therefore, occurs with the visual device or the audible device.
I am not sure how that can be ruled out.
 
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Luke Powell

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That’s my issue, the ECU is logging no errors at all which in my limited experience tells me it’s likely an ECU issue, it doesn’t know there is a problem so cannot report a problem...does that make sense
I guess the only way I can fault find it is by swapping out the ECU??
 

mattkh

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I guess the only way I can fault find it is by swapping out the ECU??
I would NOT go down that path.
I mean, is that 'beep thingy' used for any other beeps as well, then you can test that the beep sounds all the time or not.
 
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Luke Powell

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This isn’t a picture from my car (see image), but it’s the pdc display and related warning beeps that work intermittently. When you get to the last red light you get a beep...when it’s not working I get no lights or beeps, when it is working all works perfectly
 

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mattkh

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Thanks for the picture. It is a great help.
I suspect a loose connection in the pdc display.
Try a gentle tap next time it does not work.
 
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Luke Powell

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Problem is that it effects both the front and the rear displays at the same time and I suspect the sound comes from the car speakers so for everything to fail at the same time and then work at the same time the next time you get in the car must surely mean it’s an intermittent problem with the system itself?
 

mattkh

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I reckon the button on the dash ( the second button to the right of the TRIANGLE button) gets accidentally pushed. This turns the parking sensor and beep OFF.
 
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Luke Powell

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I will double check the on/off switch as it could be faulty so that’s a good shout however when it comes to accidentally pressing the button nearly every day, I don’t think it’s that :)
 

Sparks1959

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Hi Luke. I’ve just read your post about parking sensors and I’m having the same trouble. Diagnostic test on sensors showed no fault codes but there were 2 front sensors not registering distance on live data. I thought Great. Just replaced these sensors and now all sensors front and back are reading correct. But when put in reverse still shows fault on displays 2 red lights each side and fault beeps. It is a sprinter 906 van but similar system to cars. The rear displays are in door mirrors. The right display doesn’t light up at all, so I’ve ordered a new one but I suspect the PTS ECU. 3 times randomly everything worked until I selected park or ignition turned off,but still faulty.
Did you resolve your problem?
 
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Luke Powell

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Nope, no fix for me yet...still completely intermittent and nothing I do fixes it when it’s not working and the same when it is working, nothing I physically do creates the fault.

The only time I realise it’s stopped working is when I slow down to the required speed and I get no lights or warning sounds as I approach an obstacle, occasionally I do get a pair of lights suggesting that it has activated but I get no further warning.

Its definitely a mystery, I know the sensors are definitely working as I still get the facility for automatic reverse parking even when the sensor displays are not working.
 

Tony Dyson

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Before sending off for someone else to solve, particularly as you’ve already had an MB Technician look at it, I would remove my front and rear bumpers, disconnect, clean and lubricate the ultrasonic transceiver connectors, clean and check the sensor for physical integrity and reassemble, do the same with the PTS ECU, additionally, open up the unit and disconnect/reconnect any electronic components you are able to, don’t be tempted to introduce a blowtorch to any electronic components, as contrary to the opinions of some, this is not a good idea, the PTS ECU in my car is found in the passenger foot well engine bulkhead just below the facia, make sure you isolate the supply to the PTS ECU before you start any work and that you have a healthy supply in excess of 12v before you do any further testing.

Intermittent electrical faults are a devil to find in medium voltage installations where you have significantly higher voltages (pressures) pushing through the equipment, this is complicated further when dealing with lower voltages, in time all electrical connections will deteriorate, LV systems more than any other and you’ll be surprised at what a difference sometimes just re-establishing slide/knife connections can make.

If eventually you need to replace the PTS ECU you will need to transfer the current setup from the old to the new unit and Mercedes have conveniently (for them) made this process a function of STAR Diagnostics.
 
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Luke Powell

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Thanks for the message Tony, very helpful.
I’m really not looking forward to taking the bumpers off but I will definitely take a look at the connections for the PTS ECU first as I’m guessing that is a little more accessible.
When you say isolate the the supply I assume you mean disconnect the battery? Also you mention the supply being in excess of 12v, should I be checking this as the battery or at the feed for the ECU?
Cheers.
 

Tony Dyson

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Thanks for the message Tony, very helpful.
I’m really not looking forward to taking the bumpers off but I will definitely take a look at the connections for the PTS ECU first as I’m guessing that is a little more accessible.
When you say isolate the the supply I assume you mean disconnect the battery? Also you mention the supply being in excess of 12v, should I be checking this as the battery or at the feed for the ECU?
Cheers.

Hello Luke, Yes, better to drop the Negative connection off the batteries before you start taking it all apart and you should take a voltage reading at the battery and the PTS ECU to note any potential Volt Drop issues in the supply line, I would expect anything between 12.2-12.6v from a healthy resting battery with no load, renewing the supply fuse or simply sliding it in and out may help if an issue. When you find the PTS ECU look for any condensation or water on or around and signs of water ingress when you open it up, a hot air gun or hair dryer will help to dry it out but be careful not to take any internal temperatures above ‘Hot to Touch’. Good Luck.
 
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Luke Powell

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Thanks again, it’s going to be a week before I can get to it but I will definitely give this a go!
 

8ball74

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Thanks again, it’s going to be a week before I can get to it but I will definitely give this a go!
Hi Luke I have the same problem with my cls, did you ever fix the problem? Thanks Nick
 


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