Brake Bleeding ABS Module

quinnj3

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Hi All,

My car is a C207 E350 CDI Coupe. I had a perforated corroded steel brake line going to the offside rear wheel this week. Only discovered when the brake fluid low warning came on. Thankfully nothing ‘eventful’ occurred. When I got home I fitted a piece of copper line about 2.5ft in length due to corrosion in the surrounding area. The repair is sound with appropriate fittings. While I gathered the parts from my dads house over the next day or so my car was parked in the garage and I believe I let the reservoir get too low.

I have bled about 2 litres of fluid through the lines using the two man method, one man bleeding kit and finally a compressed air vacuum kit. I just can’t seem to be able to get a brake peddle at all. The brakes do work and will activate the abs (tested on driveway) but I’m not confident to drive on the road as there is little to no resistance on the peddle which goes to the floor. I’ve come to the conclusion that there must be air in the abs module as I’m not getting any bubbles at the callipers.

Has anyone had this experience with their car and if so what did you do to resolve it?

Also is there any software readily available that would allow me to activate the abs module bleed routine?


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umblecumbuz

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When I bleed mine I use a power bleeder. I uncrack the outlet pipes from the abs unit and wait till I see brake fluid seeping from them (air bubbles often show up first) and then tighten them up. Plenty of cloths around the unit to absorb fluid. Once I am satisfied that the abs unit is air-free I proceed to crack open the caliper nipples as necessary.

There is no doubt an 'official' way to do it, but I have found success with this method.
 
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quinnj3

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Do you have a link to something similar as your power bleeder?


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umblecumbuz

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This is the kind of thing:
Eby item number 153432940735

Mine is slightly different, but the principle is the same.
 

ajlsl600

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clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
When I bleed mine I use a power bleeder. I uncrack the outlet pipes from the abs unit and wait till I see brake fluid seeping from them (air bubbles often show up first) and then tighten them up. Plenty of cloths around the unit to absorb fluid. Once I am satisfied that the abs unit is air-free I proceed to crack open the caliper nipples as necessary.

There is no doubt an 'official' way to do it, but I have found success with this method.


sounds good to me. better than the get fleeced method , no doubt also requiring the dreaded update (bug installation )
 
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quinnj3

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2010 E350 CDI BlueEfficiency Sport Coupe Auto 227bhp
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When I bleed mine I use a power bleeder. I uncrack the outlet pipes from the abs unit and wait till I see brake fluid seeping from them (air bubbles often show up first) and then tighten them up. Plenty of cloths around the unit to absorb fluid. Once I am satisfied that the abs unit is air-free I proceed to crack open the caliper nipples as necessary.

There is no doubt an 'official' way to do it, but I have found success with this method.

Ok thanks for that. I’ve bought a cheapo pressure bleeder in Halfords this afternoon so I’ll try that tomorrow after work. I’ll report back here after.


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LostKiwi

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'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
I seem to recall a facility in Star to bleed through the ABS by operating the pump to assist the bleed process.
 
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quinnj3

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2010 E350 CDI BlueEfficiency Sport Coupe Auto 227bhp
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Ok, I put the pressure bleeder on tonight. I’m pretty confident there is no air in system. I cracked each outlet on the abs module in turn. No air bubbles just fluid. To be sure I let this run a little on each outlet. Next I did each wheel starting at the rear offside working clockwise. Again plenty of fluid, absolutely minimal air. I flushed 1.5 litres through the system.

Still no improvement in brake pedal. Little to no resistance on the brake peddle. So little I can press it to the stop without effort with my hand.

I’m pretty much out of ideas. Anything else guys?!

On the plus side, the little pressure bleeder is a cracker. By far the best method of pushing fluid and air through the system with minimal effort.






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davidsl500

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Master cylinder piston seal displaced ? This can happen if you did the manual " 2 man bleed" and the pedal operator took the pedal to the floor -piston goes past the wear lip in the cylinder which causes the seal to get displaced on the return. The piston is thus moving up and down but not pushing much fluid as the seal is distorted. That's a possibility.
 
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quinnj3

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Hi, yes it’s a possibility.

I’m actually thinking that the master cylinder may have an air blockage. Can exhibit similar symptoms and is likely considering I didn’t pump the brakes during the bleeding process and because it had went dry. I didn’t realise these need bleeding separately.


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EmilysDad

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ML350
...and reading through the script on a MBII code reader clicky suggests it will cycle the ABS too.
 
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quinnj3

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2010 E350 CDI BlueEfficiency Sport Coupe Auto 227bhp
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Update!

All done and dusted. It was air in master cylinder lines. Really strange problem. I purged the lines with a pressurised kit and everything else but it didn’t release the air. The only thing left was to undo the two lines from the master cylinder to the abs block at the abs block and pressurised again; the amount of air that came out was unreal. Buttoned all up tight and I’ve now got the tightest brake pedal I’ve ever had in any car!

As a precaution I flushed fluid through all 4 lines again but no air came out. No need for computer.


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MrGundam

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C207 2012 E350Cdi
Doing this myself on my C207 2012 due to a replaced brake pipe section soon. I am hoping that I can pressure bleed it as I am not sure my iCarsoft V2 will allow me to have the APC flush the reservoir.

Silly question but can I ask the order you bled the brakes. I know it is meant to be furthest from the reservoir however surely it makes more sense to do furthest from the APC i.e. ROS, RNS, OS then NS.
 
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quinnj3

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I started at furthest from the reservoir.


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alexanderfoti

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With a C207 you will need to actuate the ABR unit with STAR or a good diag machine to get the air out. Its impossible otherwise.
 

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