W124 ride height

[jeremy156]

I recently replaced the springs on my W124, carefully checking the part numbers against the list of optional extras, etc. (see photos). The springs I ordered were not OEM, but corresponded to the MB part numbers. I accept it might be that those springs are not to the right specification...

Does this ride height look right? This is a "normal/comfort" spec, not sports chassis. To me it seems the gap above the tyres is rather large.

In reading around I've read that certain rubber/metal components should be torqued at normal ride height, rather than with the wheels hanging... could this be my issue, or is that a red herring? Surely it would settle... or do I have some rubber bushes constantly on a twist, perhaps?


Spec chart front:


Spec chart rear:

 

[LostKiwi]

Have got the correct pads for the spring? The pads are different thicknesses. They look to be called boots on your printout.

 

[Blobcat]

When I looked at this previously I think there was 24 different options available from Mercedes - makes it somewhat challenging to get the correct setup going aftermarket

 

[jeremy156]

Have got the correct pads for the spring? The pads are different thicknesses. They look to be called boots on your printout.

Hi mate, I actually chose pads one *thinner* then specified on the sheet.... so the opposite should have been the case.

 

[LostKiwi]

Hmmm. Aftermarket may not be accurate. Front looks "ok" but rear is definitely too high.

 

[Bogus]

Apart from that, lovely looking car, wheels could use a bit of a clean though, just saying.
As already said, front looks fine, rear does look a wee bit high. Get a couple of fatties in the back and see what happens.

 

[Cole@MBS]

Think the fronts too high as well mate!! Nice to see your still alive

 

[james2747]

I recently replaced the springs on my W124, carefully checking the part numbers against the list of optional extras, etc. (see photos). The springs I ordered were not OEM, but corresponded to the MB part numbers. I accept it might be that those springs are not to the right specification...

Does this ride height look right? This is a "normal/comfort" spec, not sports chassis. To me it seems the gap above the tyres is rather large.

In reading around I've read that certain rubber/metal components should be torqued at normal ride height, rather than with the wheels hanging... could this be my issue, or is that a red herring? Surely it would settle... or do I have some rubber bushes constantly on a twist, perhaps?

View attachment 51483
Spec chart front:
View attachment 51484

Spec chart rear:
View attachment 51485

You deffo have too the rear too high …. looking at the photo, I'd estimate about 3cm to 4cm lower would be about right. If you tightened up any suspension arms or bushes with wheel hanging then this would perhaps account for 1cm too high difference, so the problem is due to something else. However I would check this and only tighten when weight compressing the suspension … or you will be needing new rubber bushes in a few thousand miles as they will have their centres torn away due to constant severe torsion on them.

 

[grober]

MERCEDES used to divide their springs into two categories back then Those with a blue flash [ longer] and those with a red flash [shorter] ---- the springs had the same rating/part no and the difference in length was accommodated by spring pads of different thickness -- evidence for this is in the table with one column for the spring part no and two columns [ red and blue] for the spring pads to accomodate this difference in length---aftermarket often don't make this distinction meaning you can end up with a long spring with a thicker "short spring pad" and thus a high ride height ------ pad thickness were 8,13,18,23 mm but allowance has to be made for the "lever effect" of the spring arm since the spring position is inboard of the hub meaning a minor difference in spring pad thickness has a greater effect on ride height than the mere difference in pad thickness might suggest. Changing to a thinner spring pad thickness all round should restore the correct ride height. Existing pad thickness can be determined by the number of pips on the lower outer edge of the pad 8mm 1pip 13mm 2pips etc

take your example of the rear springs you highlighted- Part no A1243241104
There are 2 pads listed
blue [ LONG SPRING] A2013251044 2pips 13mm
and red [SHORT SPRING] A2013251144 3pips 18mm
A difference of 5mm pad thickness- but remember that translates to a greater difference in ride height.


e.g.

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/swag-2126826.html
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/swag-2126835.html

 

[DREAMER NO2]

You have the stock 195 65 15 yes . I went up to 205 65 15 these are normal springs and original from new , no one as changed them. Some W124 come with 185x65x15 -195x65x15 205x65x15 tires . Those on you car look like 185 x65 x15 if they are thats why the the gap looks more than normal.

 

[DREAMER NO2]

If possible use a tape measure and a flat piece of wood .Lay it flat piece of wood across the highest point of your roof measure in line where the doors join mid way , but mind not to scratch your loved one .The measurement should be 1431 mm but remove the chain makers anvil first .

 

[jeremy156]

You deffo have too the rear too high …. looking at the photo, I'd estimate about 3cm to 4cm lower would be about right. If you tightened up any suspension arms or bushes with wheel hanging then this would perhaps account for 1cm too high difference, so the problem is due to something else. However I would check this and only tighten when weight compressing the suspension … or you will be needing new rubber bushes in a few thousand miles as they will have their centres torn away due to constant severe torsion on them.

A new pair of lower wishbone arms were fitted several months ago... it would make sense that they would be under a constant twist given that they were installed on a two-post lift. Should I simply slacken off and re-torque the (green) bolts while the wheels are supported on a pair of car ramps at home?... or would there be more to it?



Meanwhile, I'll look into getting genuine MB springs and pads, on the assumption that the aftermarket units I chose are too tall/stiff.

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Yes they should have been fitted and torqued up sitting on the deck -floor

 

[LostKiwi]

Just be careful not to upset alignment when undoing things.

 

[jeremy156]

Just be careful not to upset alignment when undoing things.

This is what worries me... the spring is pushing down and if I loosen the bolts through the bushes they might settle lower... guess I can mark the position before loosening and use a jack to nudge it back into position before I re-tighten.

If I totally feck it up, I'll get it to the garage to remedy. No risk, no fun!

 

[LostKiwi]

This is what worries me... the spring is pushing down and if I loosen the bolts through the bushes they might settle lower... guess I can mark the position before loosening and use a jack to nudge it back into position before I re-tighten.

If I totally feck it up, I'll get it to the garage to remedy. No risk, no fun!

If they're adjustable (and I think they are) mark the washers against the subframe.
If it was re-tracked after the arm was replaced the bushes should have been tightened whilst vehicle weight was on the wheels.

 

[jeremy156]

If they're adjustable (and I think they are) mark the washers against the subframe.
If it was re-tracked after the arm was replaced the bushes should have been tightened whilst vehicle weight was on the wheels.

Good point... tracking was done, so I'm worrying about nothing - they'd have been loosened and re-tightened during that.

I'll get my coat.