W169 2005 A-class remove rear bearing hubs problem

[Xadryxil]

Hello, I need to remove the rear wheel hubs to replace the rusted-to-dust brake splash/backplates so that I can get the handbrake shoes fixed in place for MOT.
Unfortunately the wheel hub bolts are stuck, the heads are rusted and access is very poor at the back. Are there any good tricks to remove these bolts? I've got new ones and would even buy new hubs if necessary.
Alternatively I was thinking about dropping the whole rear axle to get good access to the hub bolts.
Can anyone help me with the procedure to drop the axle please?
Thanks for your help!

 

[ajlsl600]

post picture if same as w168 i can advise

 

[Xadryxil]

Thanks for the offer but unfortunately not the same. There is a YouTube video here showing removal for a B class W245 which is the same as my A class W169 but his bolts come out very easily!

 

[ajlsl600]

just looked that vid, yr on about the 4 large torX that hold on the rear hub ? if so yr going to need to get the CORRECT TORX SOCKET, BE SURE. vid tells you. if you get the back up in the air you may be able to get an extn and a long knuckle bar to it. you can also try a flat punch copper if poss and lump hammer to whack the bolt head a few times .i had similar issues getting the torx out that hold in my rear radius arms in . i found that a long knuckle bar with a consistent pull rather than jerking did the job

 

[Xadryxil]

Yes, 4 large torx each side. I've got the correct E14 socket but the heads are badly corroded. Apparently the factory thread-lock on those bolts won't be helping either. Can't whack the bolt ends or focus heat on them (to melt thread-lock) because the hub is in the way. There's no real access to whack most of the bolt heads either! It's an 'annoying' design, especially the under-specified little torx heads!!
Because of the corrosion and poor access I am thinking about removing the whole axle so I can get 'behind' the bolt heads properly but I don't know what the procedure is.
Just thought, if I release the two shock absorber bottom mounts will the axle rotate/drop downwards much?

 

[Flyinspanner]

Can you hire one of those electric induction bolt heaters?

(Or if you are near Hammersmith in London, go to Forerra. A- Class specialist)

The “danger” is one bolt snapping, then you’d have to remove axle to take it to get it removed - or source new hub ....eeek

 

[Xadryxil]

Induction bolt heater, hadn't heard of that. Thanks for the idea. I'm in Stirling so a fair way from Hammersmith, unfortunately!
Honestly if I could guarantee cutting off/butchering the hubs somehow would allow me to remove those bolts then I'd happily buy new hubs, they're not much compared to the amount of time I could end up spending...

 

[ajlsl600]

the thread is in the hub,right .so if the bolt snaps off the hub should come off anyway . can you get the gas axe (oxy aceth) on the uter hub support ,ie outside of where thread is in hub? be surprised if you could and that did not shift them or a decent electric impact gun ,extn and socket i recently broke up a w168 for bits for mine and my ryobi rattle gun got all the torx bolts that held it together out ! and without breaking any the more extn you add the less power you will get at the socket. dont ask why,no idea
stand to be corrected but dont think inductin heater will work ,unless you can close the loops around/thru what you want to heat up .like thru a bearing for example. which is what i used them for....

 

[ajlsl600]

Yes, 4 large torx each side. I've got the correct E14 socket but the heads are badly corroded. Apparently the factory thread-lock on those bolts won't be helping either. Can't whack the bolt ends or focus heat on them (to melt thread-lock) because the hub is in the way. There's no real access to whack most of the bolt heads either! It's an 'annoying' design, especially the under-specified little torx heads!!
Because of the corrosion and poor access I am thinking about removing the whole axle so I can get 'behind' the bolt heads properly but I don't know what the procedure is.
Just thought, if I release the two shock absorber bottom mounts will the axle rotate/drop downwards much?

never done yrs but expect it would drop a fair bit, try it,watch out for flex brake pipe and any torsion bar limiting drop. doubt you will loose much by trying

and yr spot on torx are pita. reinventing the wheel ? ,f all wrong wth a 17 heat bolt or at worst 10/12mm allen bolt.

 

[Xadryxil]

The whole length of the new bolts is threaded so I don't know if it is just the hub.
I've got an electric impact gun but I need to drop the axle to get enough access. Can try releasing the shocks at weekend to see if that drops it enough.
If anyone has access to the procedure for removing the complete axle or even drawings showing how it's mounted I'd appreciate seeing them!
Thanks for the advice so far.

 

[ajlsl600]

https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/workshop-repair-manual-w169.219638/

some info on where you might find that.

 

[Xadryxil]

Thanks very much, that link leads to a basic parts diagram of rear axle at the bottom of this page.

 

[ajlsl600]

and that vid shows the hub and carrier coming off and as far as i see it if the bolts snap off the thing ends up in yr hands ,look see.
grand you have pts diagram

 

[Xadryxil]

Yes you're right! I hadn't twigged that the video does indeed show only the hub is threaded. So that's more potentially good news!
Cheers.

 

[ZZZZ]

This any good?

Not a job I would dare to undertake myself, though I did replace the rear springs (well, Alastair did, I watched, asked silly questions, and passed on the tools).

 

[ajlsl600]

i would be surprised if you could not get a wobbly impact coupling a mid sized extn and yr electric rattle gun,what have you to loose,

 

[Xadryxil]

Thanks GLK, it's all adding to being prepared for the job!
Ajlsl600, access really is bad with mounting points, suspension parts and fuel tank in the way. I've ordered a smaller 3/8" wobbly impact coupling and some 3/8" impact extensions to give every chance of fitting through. So I'll give that a go tomorrow before dismantling anything!

 

[ajlsl600]

Thanks GLK, it's all adding to being prepared for the job!
Ajlsl600, access really is bad with mounting points, suspension parts and fuel tank in the way. I've ordered a smaller 3/8" wobbly impact coupling and some 3/8" impact extensions to give every chance of fitting through. So I'll give that a go tomorrow before dismantling anything!

if you have not bought yet use 1/2 not 3/8

 

[Xadryxil]

Yeah, already got the 1/2 but they won't fit on all 8 bolts. Ordered 'proper' impact ones so should be ok!

 

[ajlsl600]

good luck, sure its poss sans axle/subframe removal, plenty copperslip on returning bolts !