ABC help please

ajlsl600

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My strut had a collapsed lower spring platform. The rest of the strut was fine.
Feel free to put a meter on it Andy.


not sure how/if helps three pins. scale 0-200 across 2 pins 103.5/7 any other combination no reading ie no conection observed .
 

LostKiwi

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not sure how/if helps three pins. scale 0-200 across 2 pins 103.5/7 any other combination no reading ie no conection observed .
Sounds like there's something electronic like a hall effect sensor then (which would make sense).
 
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wizzman

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Ok, thanks for that Alistair and Alan. I am back on it tomorrow so I will compare results. I was going to go the whole hog and recon the valve block, replace the accumulator and anything else l come across but have changed my mind. If I do all this work how do I know what was causing the original fault so I will fit this SH strut I have and see if that cures it. The valve block rebuild and accumulator was on my to do list anyway and I see my N/S strut has a split rubber gaitor as did the one I have removed. So one job at a time and I’ll let you know when l get to the bottom of it

Cheers
 

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Ok, thanks for that Alistair and Alan. I am back on it tomorrow so I will compare results. I was going to go the whole hog and recon the valve block, replace the accumulator and anything else l come across but have changed my mind. If I do all this work how do I know what was causing the original fault so I will fit this SH strut I have and see if that cures it. The valve block rebuild and accumulator was on my to do list anyway and I see my N/S strut has a split rubber gaitor as did the one I have removed. So one job at a time and I’ll let you know when l get to the bottom of it

Cheers
Wise way to go....SH strut may be a bargain or not, let’s see....
 

alexanderfoti

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Ok, thanks for that Alistair and Alan. I am back on it tomorrow so I will compare results. I was going to go the whole hog and recon the valve block, replace the accumulator and anything else l come across but have changed my mind. If I do all this work how do I know what was causing the original fault so I will fit this SH strut I have and see if that cures it. The valve block rebuild and accumulator was on my to do list anyway and I see my N/S strut has a split rubber gaitor as did the one I have removed. So one job at a time and I’ll let you know when l get to the bottom of it

Cheers

Does your car drop when parked overnight?

Definitely replace ALL accumulators (4) but I wouldn't necessarily open the valve block unless you have an issue.
 
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wizzman

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Does your car drop when parked overnight?

Definitely replace ALL accumulators (4) but I wouldn't necessarily open the valve block unless you have an issue.
Yes it’s always dropped after a day or so which then got worse so l did the front valve block when I had the front end down for other issues. It improved but the rear drops within an hour.

Cheers
 

alexanderfoti

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Yes it’s always dropped after a day or so which then got worse so l did the front valve block when I had the front end down for other issues. It improved but the rear drops within an hour.

Cheers

On that case, assuming you have already done a proper fluid flush, then that's not a bad idea :)
 
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wizzman

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Yeah Alex, it had a flush four years ago at 60 thou just before I got the car and I flushed it again when I did it the front end work at 72 thou and both times it was still clear and green. Replaced the front valve block accumulator and have just ordered the rear block one but as you said l might as well do the other 2 now.

Just SORN’d it for a month
 

alexanderfoti

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Yeah Alex, it had a flush four years ago at 60 thou just before I got the car and I flushed it again when I did it the front end work at 72 thou and both times it was still clear and green. Replaced the front valve block accumulator and have just ordered the rear block one but as you said l might as well do the other 2 now.

Just SORN’d it for a month

How are you flushing the system?
 

alexanderfoti

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Yes.
Rodeo won't flush the system, it just exercises it.

But you do need to run 2 x rodeos in advance before using pitch function to actually pump the fluid out of the struts. Doing the rodeos warms the system up, and more importantly circulates the fluid through out all the struts, and puts all the crap into suspension.
I think some Icarsoft versions can do it, but not checked.

Pretty sure snap on solus etc can also do it.
 
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wizzman

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Yes but hopefully loose particles will be dislodged and may be held in suspension in the fluid while it’s being flushed out. Flushing with the method on this forum l read ages ago. Why do you ask Alex ?

Cheers
 

alexanderfoti

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Yes but hopefully loose particles will be dislodged and may be held in suspension in the fluid while it’s being flushed out. Flushing with the method on this forum l read ages ago. Why do you ask Alex ?

Cheers

The only reason, is that a proper flush sometimes clears dirty valve blocks without the need for removal/repair. Obviously it does nothing for seals/spacers that are broken.
 
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wizzman

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But you do need to run 2 x rodeos in advance before using pitch function to actually pump the fluid out of the struts. Doing the rodeos warms the system up, and more importantly circulates the fluid through out all the struts, and puts all the crap into suspension.
I think some Icarsoft versions can do it, but not checked.

Pretty sure snap on solus etc can also do it.

Ok thanks, I know a couple of friends with solus. I have a pretty decent foxwell scanner that I got for the brake bleed sequence. Will check if that does. Doubt it though
 
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wizzman

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not sure how/if helps three pins. scale 0-200 across 2 pins 103.5/7 any other combination no reading ie no conection observed .
just some feedback here Alan and Alistair. The strut l have removed showed no ohms reading across any terminal. The second hand one gives me the same reading as yours between the bottom left and top terminal so there’s hope yet
 

ajlsl600

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sorted ????
 
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wizzman

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sorted ????

Don’t know yet. While it’s up in the air I’m doing a few other jobs like a bit of rust on the rear arch lips, new bottom arm outer bush, height sensor links and generally any little areas of corrosion on the body or ABC pipes. Today I have just painted the inside of the strut tower which had a layer of scaley rust. Bushes arrive tomorrow so I will fit them and refit the arm and strut etc and see if it cures the fault. I’m actually toying with the idea of getting it inside and dropping the rear frame and giving it a real back end rebuild. Any advice on rear frame drop ? Will replace any ABC pipes that look dodgy and also brake pipes and anything else that I find.

Will keep you posted

Cheers
 

alexanderfoti

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Not particularly hard to drop the rear sub frame, but you will need to carryout 4 wheel alignment afterwards.
 


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