CL500 faults help

Williburp

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Hi all, I'm new to the forum so wasn't really sure where to put this, and I'm sorry if these faults have been covered before.

I have a 2003 cl500 that I've recently bought, I've had some welding done on my car, I'm guessing the battery wasn't disconnected because things aren't working right. I put my icarsoft tester on and come up with some codes, B1853, B10DF, B1080, B1066, B1636, 9040 and P203A-008. My windows don't drop when I open the doors, the soft close boot has stopped working and the indicators no longer flash when locked but they do when unlocked.
It would be great if somebody could point me in the right direction, of what sort of things to check and where to look. Just remember this is my first Mercedes so please be kind

Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

LostKiwi

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I would suggest you back to whoever did the welding and have them get it sorted.
 

alexanderfoti

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Yes. Sounds as if they may have damaged the PSE pump with the welding. Can you write out the definitiona that I car soft gives with the codes and we may be able to shed some more light.
 

Botus

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how about... because they were doing welding they disconnected the battery and unfortunately on these old beasts that can be a total and utter nightmare to resolve - which is hardly their fault but a limitation of the car
 
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Williburp

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Yes. Sounds as if they may have damaged the PSE pump with the welding. Can you write out the definitiona that I car soft gives with the codes and we may be able to shed some more light.
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ajlsl600

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clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
Hi all, I'm new to the forum so wasn't really sure where to put this, and I'm sorry if these faults have been covered before.

I have a 2003 cl500 that I've recently bought, I've had some welding done on my car, I'm guessing the battery wasn't disconnected because things aren't working right. I put my icarsoft tester on and come up with some codes, B1853, B10DF, B1080, B1066, B1636, 9040 and P203A-008. My windows don't drop when I open the doors, the soft close boot has stopped working and the indicators no longer flash when locked but they do when unlocked.
It would be great if somebody could point me in the right direction, of what sort of things to check and where to look. Just remember this is my first Mercedes so please be kind

Any help would be greatly appreciated

i assume yr talking electric/mig welding. in which case i would be after whoever was dumb enough not to isolate the electrics prior to welding next i see on yr pictures these unless i missed something? are historic issues ? so NOTE them all and clear them ,be sure yr batt/batteries are in tip top condition ,VERY important . see what happens. if you still have the faults that you described consider getting it on mercedes diagnostics (star ) and go from there . others knowing more will be along but this is how i would initiate proceedings myself .
 

Botus

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can bus off !!! not surprising some systems are unhappy and features not working,

isn't this the model that needs STAR to nurse made through multiple hurdles to get systems to remember how to function after the battery has gone flat and or been disconnected?
 

LostKiwi

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As above anything marked Historic can be ignored.
The others can be cleared and see if the return.
 
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Williburp

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As above anything marked Historic can be ignored.
The others can be cleared and see if the return.
I've cleared them all with my computer, but windows still don't go down when opening doors. Soft close works on doors but not the boot, indicators don't flash when locking but do when unlocked. I have also put a brand new battery on, 100ah. I can't start it or get it anywhere at the moment, the rear abc is leaking badly, I'm waiting on a pipe from Germany and the rear section of exhaust is off
 

alexanderfoti

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I've cleared them all with my computer, but windows still don't go down when opening doors. Soft close works on doors but not the boot, indicators don't flash when locking but do when unlocked. I have also put a brand new battery on, 100ah. I can't start it or get it anywhere at the moment, the rear abc is leaking badly, I'm waiting on a pipe from Germany and the rear section of exhaust is off

Have you normalised the windows (all the way down, then all the way up on the 2nd up click)
 
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Williburp

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Have you normalised the windows (all the way down, then all the way up on the 2nd up click)
Yes mate, done all that on fronts and rears. I wiped all the fault codes and it's all still the same. I'll check fuses etc over the weekend and see what happens

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Williburp

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I've put a brand new battery on yesterday, was fully charged and I put my charger on for a few hours to make sure.
I can't fire it up at the moment because my rear abc pipe is ****ing out, and my rear exhaust section isn't on either

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Williburp

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check the battery voltage at rest and while running pal
I think the battery was 12.3 volts according to my icarsoft

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bembo449

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ok pal understood , at least it rules a lot of things out , ive witnessed someone try weld a car with the battery connected and there was a big pop , it fried a couple of the large fuses but there was no other damage caused , so hopefully your check on the fuses tomorrow will bare fruit , beyond that I suggest a session on star to pin point the faulty units and I hope you are billing the nugget that welded the car ??
 

Flyinspanner

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They absolutely hate weak batteries. And your screenshots note under voltage.
Get your battery load tested (Halfords do it free).

if it’s poor, (sub 12.2v at rest) get a new one (euro car parts often have discount codes with great %) I got a Bosch battery sub £100. - search online for codes.

if you know it’s good (12.4v+) then you should be ok.
 
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Williburp

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ok pal understood , at least it rules a lot of things out , ive witnessed someone try weld a car with the battery connected and there was a big pop , it fried a couple of the large fuses but there was no other damage caused , so hopefully your check on the fuses tomorrow will bare fruit , beyond that I suggest a session on star to pin point the faulty units and I hope you are billing the nugget that welded the car ??
I'll have a look tomorrow. I'll have to wait for the star diagnostic as the rear abc pipe should be leaving Germany at the end of the month. I will do the rest of the welding myself, then seam seal/waxoil the rest of it, put new dust covers on the rear shocks, replace seals in valve blocks, fit all 4 accumulator/sphere/air cylinders and fit the other 2 rear abc pipes until I get the third. It's just relying on the weather at weekends as the car is outside

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Williburp

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They absolutely hate weak batteries. And your screenshots note under voltage.
Get your battery load tested (Halfords do it free).

if it’s poor, (sub 12.2v at rest) get a new one (euro car parts often have discount codes with great %) I got a Bosch battery sub £100. - search online for codes.

if you know it’s good (12.4v+) then you should be ok.
Battery was reading about 12.3v+ with ignition on

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Flyinspanner

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Hmmmm, borderline, and winter is coming- May be worth putting a new one on, then look at fault finding. It may save hours of fruitless work. At least you know then that the basics are OK - and if you’re lucky it will sort it out. If not you have a sound baseline to work from. Hope it works out.
 

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