I bought an R230 then went quiet.. here's whats wrong so far!

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Conor

Conor

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You can always build your own pressure tester. A bit of old radiator or heater hose, a short length of metal tubing to suit, a bolt through car valve and a hoseclip.

Hey @LostKiwi I was looking online and saw some guy made a pressure tester using a foot pump. I have a bike pump at home with a pressure gauge.

I was wondering if I use a tubeless tyre schrader valve to connect to the bike pump, then off the valve I could connect home with jubilee clip and same on the other end. On the other end I would just connect it to the pressure inlet on the expansion tank.

On the expansion tank there are two tubes coming out the side at the top near the lid What are these for? Is one of these for pressuring the system? Can I remove that one to use my new tester?
 

rexemper

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Other than the coolant leak, your list of jobs to do sounds very sensible. There was a list or two on here earlier of the jobs that other owners have had done in the first year or so and the schedule that they intend to maintain going forward - think Flowrider99 did a list like that.
 
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Conor

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Other than the coolant leak, your list of jobs to do sounds very sensible. There was a list or two on here earlier of the jobs that other owners have had done in the first year or so and the schedule that they intend to maintain going forward - think Flowrider99 did a list like that.

I fear it is only starters.. lol.

There is also the rear window/roof/boot lid that can leak. Currently not leaking but come summer, I plan on sorting that too.

Wouldn't mind seeing @flowrider99 s list all the same :)
 

flowrider

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Off the top of my head here's what I did (or had done by an indy) in no particular order..........

1. ABC flush and renew.
2. Gearbox oil change.
3. Check, and if necessary, fix rear boot seal.
4. Gummi Pflege all rubber seals.
5. Check, and if necessary clear, all rainwater drains.
6. Engine oil and filter change.
7. Air filter change.
8. Combination filter change.
9. Check under passenger side carpet for dampness (usually due to air box drain blocked).
10. Check date of consumer battery and replace if necessary.
11. Check key works in boot lid lock and lubricate lock.
12. Delete secondary CAT's. :D
13. Check rear wheel arches for rust.
14. If car is 15 years or older renew coolant fluid.

EDIT:
15. Brake fluid change.

:):)
 
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rexemper

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@flowrider99 - great list!

I think the only other things I've had done is things like brake fluid change - but that was only by looking at the service book and seeing what seemed to be due. Oh, and I checked the air box drain and then did the mod whereby I removed the rubber bung.

Some of the specific items you may need to do on a regular basis (depending on your local conditions), for example, the rainwater drains.

I also replaced the hydraulic boot-lid struts as they weren't holding the boot open and also replaced the consumer battery...

But the list above is definitely worth working your way through - may be worth adding a change of the auto transmission fluid as well.
 

flowrider

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@flowrider99 - great list!

I think the only other things I've had done is things like brake fluid change - but that was only by looking at the service book and seeing what seemed to be due. Oh, and I checked the air box drain and then did the mod whereby I removed the rubber bung.

Some of the specific items you may need to do on a regular basis (depending on your local conditions), for example, the rainwater drains.

I also replaced the hydraulic boot-lid struts as they weren't holding the boot open and also replaced the consumer battery...

But the list above is definitely worth working your way through - may be worth adding a change of the auto transmission fluid as well.
Gearbox is no.2 on the list. I forgot about the brake fluid change, I did that too.
 

Wighty

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Rear diff oil change as well , cheap job if the cars in the air for something else .
Spray ACF50 over pipes and rubber stuff underneath
 

Naraic

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What do people make of the catalytic converter situation?

Does it sound like I need a new unit? Or is something that can be cleaned out?
Mine does that after a spirited drive...never concerned me.
 

SL63 Mark

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I would waxoyl the rear arches, whether there is rust or not. Easy summer job. I do mine every few years and they have been fine so far touch wood.

I have mine serviced in accordance with the servicing intervals by MB, they advise me of any issues which I can then either do myself, take to an Independent, or let them do (unlikely).
 

ajlsl600

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clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
as above,s on CAT. really would have recovery on yr first eu trip,make it a good cover r230 with low ABC wont like being dragged up some half wrecked and to high french transporter and ,mostly, they wont care about damage .always one of my worst fears, dont have car now so no need to worry about it. benz have organised a whole bunch of other things for me to worry about with my "newer" car.!!! crap,expensive sensors dpf erg , electric/electronic flaps in grime oil polluted manifolds blutec. , active bonnet ,which i intend to make inactive, plastic timing gears and elastic chains. modern cars !!
seriously tho, the ABC equipped r230 is, when behaving the best road/ride experience you will ever get. they are a bit of a tart tho,expect to open yr wallet at regular intervals,sometimes for significant amounts. you stand a 50 % chance of having considerable enjoyment. good luck jobs you listed are std maintenance for this and most models.
 


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