OM612 in ML270 - flat fuel system washers on high pressure pump

tttonyyy

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The CP1 pump came off easily enough but to my chagrin the pump rebuild kit doesn't contain the washers used to seal the fuel lines to the pump inlet - the white ones here:

IMG-20190419-085912.jpg


IMG-20190419-091807.jpg


They are very soft, like feta cheese - and torn. I don't know how soft they are supposed to be when new.

Dimensions are 10mm ID, 22mm OD, 2mm thick as near as I can make out.

Part number A0069906040 - can find them on eBay but £5 each is taking the proverbial a bit.

Can I just replace them with generic Viton washers if I can find some with a low Shore hardness?
 
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tttonyyy

tttonyyy

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Uncle Benz

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They don't actually seal anything. The O rings on the pipe are the seals. The white things take out a tiny bit of slack from the saddle clamp that holds them in place. You'll be fine to reuse them if need be.
 
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tttonyyy

tttonyyy

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I was pondering their purpose. Good to know, old ones will go back in then!
 

om613

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Yep, you can bin them.
An unnecessary assy line item. That could have saved MB a few pence!
 
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tttonyyy

tttonyyy

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Yesterday's debacle, which resulted in much swearing:

Took old high pressure pump off, fitted newer model from breaker. About 20 minute job.
Priming fuel system instructions appear to be crank for 60 seconds. Cranked about 45 seconds before the battery died.
Jumped off a spare battery, cranked for another 60 seconds or so before that battery died too.
Figured maybe that replacement pump wasn't any good, swapped back for my original while charging the batteries.
Cranked for a good 45 seconds with some penetrating oil sprayed into the turbo inlet (it kicked the engine a bit) before batteries died.
Went to Halfords and bought a new HB019 battery, got home, fitted it. Turned half a turn before battery died.
Went back to Halfords. They tested it, apologised for the duff battery and gave me another one.
Got home, fitted it. Cranked at a good speed for 60 seconds. Still not starting.
Got boy to crank engine while I looked at bubbles in the fuel lines. All clear, but some tiny trail of bubbles in the high pressure pump return.
Then it occurred to me. Both fuel lines look the same, did I get them in the wrong holes? The pipes sit very naturally the way they were, but this could be wrong... A google for ML270 high pressure pump thankfully found me this thread with my own photo, clearly showing the fuel lines the other way around.
Swore quite a lot at this stage. Swapped fuel lines over, it started straight away. Swapped high pressure pump for the new one from the breaker, it started straight away on that one.

Spent the rest of the day feeling like a right idiot. Still feel like a right idiot today.
 

mersum1es

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You are not alone there, that story can be read several times over and over again... :)

Glad you got it sorted.
 

stumo

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Make sure those fuel lines are well clear of the fan belt where they run under the pump. Don't ask me how I know.
 
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tttonyyy

tttonyyy

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Make sure those fuel lines are well clear of the fan belt where they run under the pump. Don't ask me how I know.

I saw how close they ran, and previous abrasion marks!

Did you cut into the low pressure feed or the return? I bet that was messy.
 

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It cut into the return, the Diesel peeing out even made the belt slip on the waterpump - so coolant temps were getting up there.
 
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tttonyyy

tttonyyy

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Oh gosh. Bet that made a pretty mess!
 

joderest

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we all do it, do not beat yourself up, in the end you got there.
 
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tttonyyy

tttonyyy

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Those white washers degraded further, I've had to make some new ones out of some kind of foamed sheet a friend gave me that seems biodiesel proof. Time and engine temp will tell.

IMG-20201212-145354.jpg


On yet another cycle of injection pump rebuilds, this time my rebuilt pump would not start the car and I had to return the leaking one. No idea why, perhaps a misplaced seal or the pitting on the heads (it's had a lot of rust).

Another on order from a breaker.

Curiously, the two I've got are part no
CR/CP1K3/L70/10-S, however I've seen ML270 pumps with part numbers

CR/CP1K3/L60/10-S
CR/CP1K3/L85/10-S

Anyone know what the differences are?

The L60 variant seems to be used on the A170 as well (much smaller engine, how does that work?) and can be got for 35 quid from Lithuania!
 
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tttonyyy

tttonyyy

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I also discovered today that if you're lazy, and don't bother refitting the vacuum pump (removed for access to the injection pump) thinking "I'll just see if it starts" that there is a perfect jet of oil that emerges from the hole in the engine where the vacuum pump goes, because that's its oil feed...
 

ajlsl600

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Yesterday's debacle, which resulted in much swearing:

Took old high pressure pump off, fitted newer model from breaker. About 20 minute job.
Priming fuel system instructions appear to be crank for 60 seconds. Cranked about 45 seconds before the battery died.
Jumped off a spare battery, cranked for another 60 seconds or so before that battery died too.
Figured maybe that replacement pump wasn't any good, swapped back for my original while charging the batteries.
Cranked for a good 45 seconds with some penetrating oil sprayed into the turbo inlet (it kicked the engine a bit) before batteries died.
Went to Halfords and bought a new HB019 battery, got home, fitted it. Turned half a turn before battery died.
Went back to Halfords. They tested it, apologised for the duff battery and gave me another one.
Got home, fitted it. Cranked at a good speed for 60 seconds. Still not starting.
Got boy to crank engine while I looked at bubbles in the fuel lines. All clear, but some tiny trail of bubbles in the high pressure pump return.
Then it occurred to me. Both fuel lines look the same, did I get them in the wrong holes? The pipes sit very naturally the way they were, but this could be wrong... A google for ML270 high pressure pump thankfully found me this thread with my own photo, clearly showing the fuel lines the other way around.
Swore quite a lot at this stage. Swapped fuel lines over, it started straight away. Swapped high pressure pump for the new one from the breaker, it started straight away on that one.

Spent the rest of the day feeling like a right idiot. Still feel like a right idiot today.

He who never did fa never fu and never learnt anything. Ur in a v big club. As my boss at time said. Just don't do it 2f x that was 40 yr ago.
 

ajlsl600

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On a diff note. I hate makers usin odd sized seals, washers instead of std sizes they must have guys sitting about with mandate to make sure there is no std choice a, hs!!!
With ally and copper washers I often aneal them and use again if not in repair kits.
 
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tttonyyy

tttonyyy

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It's such an easy mistake to make getting the two fittings the wrong way around I'm surprised they didn't adds extra "splines" in the top of the connector fittings such that they would interfere with the clamp if they were the wrong way around - it would be so easy to do. Now I have a cable tie around the tube of the "back" one (nearest the engine) so I won't easily mix them up again.

And yeah, custom seals... I think they hold the fittings square against the ports, certainly replacing them has resolved a leak that was developing there.
 

DaffyF

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Sorry in advance. I realise this thread is a couple of years old. Can anybody confirm for me (looking at the first picture in the thread) which pipe is which eg pipe to fuel rail = left or right.
 

mersum1es

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Sorry in advance. I realise this thread is a couple of years old. Can anybody confirm for me (looking at the first picture in the thread) which pipe is which eg pipe to fuel rail = left or right.

front (Right in pic) to rail
 

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