Inlet port shut off motor delete (CDI2)

[turbopete]

from memory I think the bush has to come out. I think mine came out with the rods that the flaps pivoted on. I just opened out those holes a little and used 15mm copper blanking caps like plumbers use, (glued in using JB weld as its insanely strong) but I believe those that threaded bolts in used either 14 or 16mm thread (I looked into it but at the time the cost was prohibitive as I was unemployed and the tap alone was about £20!)

 

[Dragonml]

Thank you so much
I will try and pull them out if not drill them out
I got m14 and m16 tap at work.
Bushes are yellow in collor on mine just had look at them.
Still need to take two broken flaps from cylinder no2 and 3.they are stuck next to inlet valve.
Thank you

 

[No one really]

Hi sorry for digging on an old post.


The wiring does not go to the gearbox, just to the starter, block heater, sump oil sensor, M55 motor and crank sensor - you might want to move the manifold slightly and disconnect these last of all, especially the motor plug.
The curved EGR pipe is a pig to remove, so I suggest you remove the fuel rail and thermostat instead, to free the manifold.
The dip stick pipe running through the manifold is to the engine sump, and can usually be left in placeold post ( as it's my first post )

Coping a post from Alex

Can anybody tell/show me where this block heater is

Tia

 

[Mickyw2002]

Hi, can anyone tell me the wire colours for the resistor mod for the swirl flap motor on my ml270?
I'm wanting to fit the resistor to the wiring near the ecu, rather than the plug of the motor..
or can someone point me in the direction of a wiring diagram

thanks.. Micky

 

[Botus]

Hi, can anyone tell me the wire colours for the resistor mod for the swirl flap motor on my ml270?

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/2006-w211-e280-cdi.164173/#post-1568040

a metal film resistor 0.6w 4.7k ohm on swirl flap motor plug, Pins 2 and 3 (centre two of 4 pins) connecting red/green wire and the grey wire.

 

[Mickyw2002]

http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/2006-w211-e280-cdi.164173/#post-1568040

a metal film resistor 0.6w 4.7k ohm on swirl flap motor plug, Pins 2 and 3 (centre two of 4 pins) connecting red/green wire and the grey wire.

thanks for replying.. I found a thread saying it was pins 22 and 33 in block 4 of the ecu plug, (gray and red/green) and I just finished fitting the 4.7k resistor.. just snipped the wires and fitted the resistor with a chock block..
pleased to say the car drives great now.. loads of power and no limp mode..
there was a lot of very black smoke under load at first.. but it cleared after a few miles..
I just left the motor in its default position..

 

[Matt s]

I tried in vain today to disconnect the M55 motor connection at the manifold on my ML270 in-situ. I can just see it from under the vehicle, but there is no way in hell I can reach it top or bottom without another elbow joint and forearm length added to my arm.

So...

What about disabling it at the ECU end, kind of like the EGR shunt, but cut the 12v supply wire to the motor? Then the resistor across on the ECU side to the M55 signal? Then the motor connection can remain plugged in. I might give it a go and see what happens. Worst case - out comes the manifold, which technically is the complete solution, but its a lot of work.

EDIT: Its done. You need to snip the signal wire too. Its easy to do, both pins are on the same sub-block of ecu plug 4. Pin 22 and 33 just snip them off with a short tail and join them with the resistor, (on the ecu side of the snip), job done.

Is this on a ml270 w163? Mine is 2002 and flaps are leaking so want them out. TIA

 

[Joakim Behrens]

Hey, im a owner of a w210 220 cdi 2001 model. I have a problem that my car goes in limp mode. I have the code p1189. Have earlier removed my intake and plumed the holes. But i wonder if some one have a picture og the hack with the wiring and do i need to take og the intake to do the resistor. And do anyone have a link to the resistor for me?

 

[MacSixx69]

Hello Gentlemans.

After spending hours of reading this forum I think a found something that is close to my issue. I would like to ask you for some help. Im not a jeep owner but I have the same engine in my car OM642. One day my car started to jerking when pulling the throttle pedal so I found out that the turbo actuator could be the issue I resoldered the two problem contacts and the found the info about the resistro mod. I triyed the resistor mod but for the first time no succes, the car drove but only for 50% of power no limp mode because the kickdown worked but the motor was very lazy. When I removed the resistor and made a test drive the car was with full force. So second time I tried another resistor and made a test drive and the car stayed with 100% power and I personally think it had better and smooth running, but after one hour of enjoyable driving and engine check symbol appeared and car went to to limp mode (faulst 2514,2526,2530,2527 appeared). So i removed the resistor and putted everything back to defaul nothing happened, engine check still on the dash. So I desided to check the fuses and found that fuse no43 is blewn - 15A. When I replace it car started to work no limp mode cleared the faults and no one appeared again. Before I tryied the resistor mod I didnot get any fault regarding the swirl flaps, you was curious to try it. So my question is could the resistor cause the fuse no43 to blow? If yes why?

 

[1vwdale]

Have attached a photo showing the drilled and wired brass 3/8 BSP plugs. They got a bit discoloured by the oven cleaner I used to clean out the gunk from the manifold.

ITs back on the road now, and it goes like a rocket. I'm picking that I've always had a couple of flaps stuck/blocked since I got it at 235kkm. Its never pulled this well before, and its at 270kkm now.

hi i have the same problem i have resistors and diode to disable the egr and was wondering what size resistor you used to disable the swirl motor cheers dale

 

[Wighty]

hi i have the same problem i have resistors and diode to disable the egr and was wondering what size resistor you used to disable the swirl motor cheers dale

4.7k ohm resistor for the swirl flat/inlet port shut off motor buddy . On my om642 , it's the middle 2 terminals .

 

[1vwdale]

4.7k ohm resistor for the swirl flat/inlet port shut off motor buddy . On my om642 , it's the middle 2 terminals .

thank for your quick reply i will try that mod soon it was on a merc ml270 or have i got my msg mixed up this is he first time i have ever used a foram cheers dale

 

[Devtmp]

Another newbie here with a 2004 ML270 (W163) and sticky swirl flap. I'm about to take the manifold out and extract the flaps but in the meantime I thought I would do the quick resistor delete at the ECU end. But, there is no pin 33 at ECU plug 4 (green lead at pin 22). Any suggestions on what the appropriate pins are for my engine? Cheers

 

[Devtmp]

Ok, sorted out. Plug 4 should be the last one on the left (before the square plug) but for some reason mine's is marked as 3 (and the one to the right of it is marked 4). I found out the mixup when doing the EGR delete as I could get access to the MAF and vaccum transducer pins, which led me to the right plug and pins. I had problems with the Scotch lock connectors not cutting through the cable insulation so check the connections after crimping, or else use screw connectors - which I had to as my small butane soldering iron refused to keep burning outdoor in the wind/cold. Cheers

 

[MjmvR320bT]

That could be a W211 or a W210, but it ought to work on either, yes.

Hey Alex new to this site and I have read a lot and from the looks of it .. you are the man ! Lol I recently purchased a 2009 r320 blutec ! From day one it had been I guess burning crazy amounts of oil ! About 4 litres every 800km now it’s loosing power going Into limp have to turn off start again and get some power back . I’ve always had these codes
1. The dpf is defective
2. b1 9 twc temperature sensor has a plausibility error
3.component nox sensor downstream of scr cat converter has an open circuit in the wiring
4.component nox sensor downstream of scr cat converter has a short circuit
5. b1 9 twc temperature sensor has a short circuit to positive
6. Internal fault in component nox sensor downstream of scr cat converter
These codes were always there never going away from day one , car was still drivable but not the power it should have ..Now there is 2 new codes
1 charge pressure is too low
2 component b96/1 left intake port shutoff end position sensor is defective
Since the code component b96 appeared I find that there is more low end power but still no high end boost ! I am lost now I have no idea we’re or what to check , when I changed the air filters a while back I noticed that there is a broken sensor witch is ( differential pressure sensor ) it is connected but the plastic where the hose connects it’s broken so they bypassed it basically eliminated the sensor
I’m just curious to no your thoughts you seem to no a lot about this engine . Do I scrap it or is it fixable without taking my arm or leg ! Also from live data I notice there is alot of back pressure !
My deepest thanks in advance !

 

[Wighty]

Hey Alex new to this site and I have read a lot and from the looks of it .. you are the man ! Lol I recently purchased a 2009 r320 blutec ! From day one it had been I guess burning crazy amounts of oil ! About 4 litres every 800km now it’s loosing power going Into limp have to turn off start again and get some power back . I’ve always had these codes
1. The dpf is defective
2. b1 9 twc temperature sensor has a plausibility error
3.component nox sensor downstream of scr cat converter has an open circuit in the wiring
4.component nox sensor downstream of scr cat converter has a short circuit
5. b1 9 twc temperature sensor has a short circuit to positive
6. Internal fault in component nox sensor downstream of scr cat converter
These codes were always there never going away from day one , car was still drivable but not the power it should have ..Now there is 2 new codes
1 charge pressure is too low
2 component b96/1 left intake port shutoff end position sensor is defective
Since the code component b96 appeared I find that there is more low end power but still no high end boost ! I am lost now I have no idea we’re or what to check , when I changed the air filters a while back I noticed that there is a broken sensor witch is ( differential pressure sensor ) it is connected but the plastic where the hose connects it’s broken so they bypassed it basically eliminated the sensor
I’m just curious to no your thoughts you seem to no a lot about this engine . Do I scrap it or is it fixable without taking my arm or leg ! Also from live data I notice there is alot of back pressure !
My deepest thanks in advance !

Can’t speak for all the faults , but 4L of oil every 500 miles must be costing you a fortune . Don’t think it’s worth spending a single £ on any other fault until you get to the bottom of that ?

 

[joderest]

Question.
Would it be possible to extend the flap motor wiring so that it can be fitted in the engine compartment, of course after blanking off swirl flap holes.
My thinking is if it then fails would be quick and easy to change. Would the ECU see no pressure against the motor and throw a fault, or would it read it as there and no issues ?

 

[Wighty]

Question.
Would it be possible to extend the flap motor wiring so that it can be fitted in the engine compartment, of course after blanking off swirl flap holes.
My thinking is if it then fails would be quick and easy to change. Would the ECU see no pressure against the motor and throw a fault, or would it read it as there and no issues ?

Do you mean so you could more easily fit a resistor if the swirl flap motor fails ?

 

[joderest]

well, that as well i suppose.

 

[S-Vibes]

New around here, but trying to confirm if this hack is actually usable by OM642 that has intake runners position sensors? 2010 GL350 (X164) have these sensors and even though the resistor works in the flap motor and I get no swirl flap codes with the motor now removed, I now have intake runner position error codes. Is there any other hack that address this?