C220 Auto transmission issue after fluid change

Tony Dyson

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2 Litres sounds more to me like the contents of the TC AND the heat exchanger!
 

Wighty

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I’ve spoken to the mechanic who advises the TC was not drained so only 7 litres of fluid required.

Also said he had to remove the start stop pump to get access but can’t see how that’s in any way related.

could it be the fact the TC wasn’t drained that’s causing the problem?
I think you need to be letting them fix it/check it buddy ?
 

steveq

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Also said he had to remove the start stop pump to get access but can’t see how that’s in any way related.

Your mechanic is correct -- you do have to remove the stop/start pump to drain the TC on the 7G+ (that has stop/start). I understand that the pump maintains oil pressure in the TC when the engine is stopped in a stop/start situation.

To remove it isn't a big deal. there are just 3 bolts holding it on and an electrical connector to be unplugged.
That exposes the TC housing and then the engine has to be turned to be able to see the TC drain bolt.
 

daibevan

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Unfortunately there are inherent problems when doing a complete "Flush" of the system, (of which I know a lot of people are going to disagree) it can actually do more harm than good.

By "Flushing-out" it can dislodge minute particles which can get trapped within the system, not to mention create air bubbles that can also get trapped. I have known of Transmissions to be irretrievable damaged by Flushing.

Of course it is an extreme exception rather than a rule that this happens - but it can happen!

And I learnt this from a very learned and experienced Automatic Gearbox Technician. He actually confessed that he, (personally) would never Transmission Flush any of his cars.

The way he recommended, and the procedure he follows and advises is to do is a Periodic Drain and Fill of the Sump 3 to 4 times over a period of a few weeks.

This lets the Transmission get used to the fresh Fluid and greatly reduces the risk of dislodging any debris or creating any air bubbles.

This is the procedure I follow and I've never had an issue.

And of course the added advantage is, is that you can do this yourself quite easily!
This sounds much better for an average bloke like me to do.. How do you actually go about it? Mine will need doing again in about 15 000 miles ( 2.5 years at my present mileage)
 

Tony Dyson

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If you want to know in detail watch this.
^+1 I've watched no end of video's on a 722.9 7g+ Fluid and filter change, some with replacing the TC content, some with replacing the HE content, this is the first online video I've seen someone doing a full fluid replacement and if I choose to do the next one myself, this will be my guide without doubt.
 

Wighty

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This sounds much better for an average bloke like me to do.. How do you actually go about it? Mine will need doing again in about 15 000 miles ( 2.5 years at my present mileage)
If you have the 5g box with dipstick tube in the engine bay , then use an oil extractor to suck the sump atf out every year (3.5L) then add new Fuchs atf4134 which is £28 on eBay for 4L . I do this every year on the CLK .
You need an eBay dipstick £10?
Easy 1 hour job in the sunshine
 

daibevan

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If you have the 5g box with dipstick tube in the engine bay , then use an oil extractor to suck the sump atf out every year (3.5L) then add new Fuchs atf4134 which is £28 on eBay for 4L . I do this every year on the CLK .
You need an eBay dipstick £10?
Easy 1 hour job in the sunshine
Thanks Wighty.
What about the filter? Do you change this as well? if so, how often?
I'll be bookmarking this page for when it's my turn.:):)
 

Wighty

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Thanks Wighty.
What about the filter? Do you change this as well? if so, how often?
I'll be bookmarking this page for when it's my turn.:):)
Yep , I do the filter every 35-40k Miles as well , it just seems such a cheap and beneficial diy job for use long term car keepers
 

daibevan

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Yep , I do the filter every 35-40k Miles as well , it just seems such a cheap and beneficial diy job for use long term car keepers
Do you suck out the sump, drop it, clean it, replace the filter & sump & refill? Do you need a new gasket?
I know from here that the correct torque on the sump bolts is vital.
I assume you don't bother with the rest of the fluid in the TC, as you are constantly refreshing it.
 

Wighty

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Do you suck out the sump, drop it, clean it, replace the filter & sump & refill? Do you need a new gasket?
I know from here that the correct torque on the sump bolts is vital.
I assume you don't bother with the rest of the fluid in the TC, as you are constantly refreshing it.
There should be stuff in the diy section on the 5g filter and oil change .
If I was changing the filter then I would just drain from the sump drain plug , take the sump off , change the filter , clean the sump and refit .
The 5g bolts are reusable (assuming good condition) , unlike the 7g which are stretch bolts and one time use .
In my case at 8k a year , I will have 4 to 5 years between filter changes .
My clever plan about just changing the sump oil every year is my OCD thing because it is easy to suction it out on the 5g (did I say cheap) . After spanking the car through France every year at 80mph it gives the gearbox a treat .
 

Jim2

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If I was changing the 5 sp 722.6 tran's, I would disconnect the return feed cooler pipe, and divert it to a large plastic container 20 Ltr preferable, ( place a length of plastic tubing on the cooler pipe, and place the other end in the plastic container) Start engine and place selector in "D" ( hand brake on, wheels chocked ) when 2 ltrs have been pumped out, switch off engine, replace the 2 ltrs with new fluid, and repeat until the new fluid appear's. This is a quick and easy way to do a complete change inc the TC. If the filter needs changing, then of course the sump needs to be taken off. But for any one wishing to do just a fluid change, the above method is ideal.
 

Uncle Benz

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Ask them if they changed the upstand plastic pipe, what colour it was, and what colour the original upstand pipe was. The pipe is used to set the fluid level in the gearbox. In my experience it is VERY common for the dealers to give you the wrong pipe. The parts system they use must make it difficult to accurately determine which pipe you have, as they get it wrong so often. The colour of the pipe determines its length. The length of the pipe dictates where the level is set and thence the quantity of oil therein. It's worth an ask.
 

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