Planning to tackle the R230 rusty arches...

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Conor

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That's fair enough. I assume that the £1600 must have been to cut out both arches and weld in repair panels?

Rear bumper does need to come off, and it's more work on a 230 than most, as all the interior trim needs to come out, to invariably drill out the bolts that will be rusted through that hold the bumper on.

We have a good local place, but they are super busy the whole time and we are quite a way out of London.

It wasn't to include cut/weld, just treat and paint.

Do you fancy sharing the name of that place, or perhaps via PM if you would prefer? Please, thanks.
 

alexanderfoti

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It wasn't to include cut/weld, just treat and paint.

Do you fancy sharing the name of that place, or perhaps via PM if you would prefer? Please, thanks.

They only work with the trade unfortunately. Give me a shout on Monday, might be able to sort something.
 

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Can I offer my three pennyworth?
Sl500 2004 with the dreaded “rusty” arches, I was visiting Star garage in Reading for another reason and they said the Bodyshop next to them had done a lot of work on Mercedes. I had them do both arches, they did make a very good job and “blew” them in well BUT in less than 12 months, the bubbling started to reappear
I sold the car ASAP but from this and other experiences..........you can not stop rust with anything other than cutting it out and using new metal. Expensive! I have a SL350 now and at the moment the Arches are factory fresh and sad as it is......every week I clean the inside of the arches with a toothbrush, you can tell I’m retired! As has been said before, I terrible design, almost like they want the car to rust........
 

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When we bought Malcolm's SL it was bubbling on rear arches (worse than yours Conor). Took it to body shop in Daventry and it came back perfect. That was 3 years ago and it's still perfect.
Cost £800 mind....
 

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......every week I clean the inside of the arches with a toothbrush, you can tell I’m retired! As has been said before, I terrible design, almost like they want the car to rust........

If, after the toothbrush treatment, you then dipped your fingers in Waxoyl and smeared it round the inside of the arch lip, you could rest easy in your bed. Just check the arch a few months down the line and you will find the Waxoyl still doing its intended job.
 

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If, after the toothbrush treatment, you then dipped your fingers in Waxoyl and smeared it round the inside of the arch lip, you could rest easy in your bed. Just check the arch a few months down the line and you will find the Waxoyl still doing its intended job.

I agree, clean it well, then fill it with Dynax UB (my weapon of choice) and it will be there for at least a few years.
 

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Double skinned panels occur when two panels are joined on an edge and then go to different places.
For example rear exterior panel and inner arch. You can feel if the panel is double skinned by running your fingers up the join from the edge.
 

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The pictures you posted dont look too bad to me. If the lip under the arch, the bit that holds the dirt, is still intact so that it gives the arch rigidity, Id strip the paint off to bare metal and treat/prime with whatever you want. Very important that once stripped and before you prime, you heat the whole area with a hairdryer/hotair gun until its hot to the touch to drive any moisture out the inevitble micro pits that will be there. Get the first coat of paint on while its still warm so no moisture gets trapped under the paint. Probably best to get the painting finished off professionally, but do the prep yourself so you know its been done thoroughly.
 
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The pictures you posted dont look too bad to me. If the lip under the arch, the bit that holds the dirt, is still intact so that it gives the arch rigidity, Id strip the paint off to bare metal and treat/prime with whatever you want. Very important that once stripped and before you prime, you heat the whole area with a hairdryer/hotair gun until its hot to the touch to drive any moisture out the inevitble micro pits that will be there. Get the first coat of paint on while its still warm so no moisture gets trapped under the paint. Probably best to get the painting finished off professionally, but do the prep yourself so you know its been done thoroughly.

Yea this is really what I had in mind, a good compromise I think. What's the worst case scenario. It comes back in 12 months?
 

Philedge

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Yep, thats the worst that could happen. Whatever you do give the inside of the arch and the lower side of thd lip a good soaking in waxoyl whilst the whole lot is dry and straight after painting. Wipe any excess of the verticle face of the arch that you can see but leave a good layer on the underside of the lip. Clean any accumulated muck off and redo the waxoyl each summer when the car has been dry for a while. Hopefully thats the last youll see of rust for a while
 

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If, after the toothbrush treatment, you then dipped your fingers in Waxoyl and smeared it round the inside of the arch lip, you could rest easy in your bed. Just check the arch a few months down the line and you will find the Waxoyl still doing its intended job.
That’s a clever idea with the fingers , would certainly prevent any overspray issues :D
 

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