Electronic actuator (turbo) repairs

topliner

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
94
Reaction score
4
Your Mercedes
E280 CDI SPORT
My car has recently going into limp mode, resulting in low power and harsh gear changes. I managed to get it hooked up to Star today and the following codes were shown.

2616-002 check component B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor) Stored
Control variation-Ehaust back pressure too high.

2510-001 Check component Y77/1 (boost pressure regulator) Current and stored
positioner signals fault.

After reading some very useful threads on this site I disconnected the Actuator rod and tested the movement which is fine. I have also spun the turbo by hand and it moves freely, I have still to remove and check the Exhaust back pressure sensor and EGR which has been suggested on one of the threads but what I would like to know has anybody successfully had the Electronic actuator repaired ?
Many thanks in advance
 

Carl@MBS

<span style="color: red;">Authorised Forum Support
Joined
Oct 8, 2012
Messages
139
Reaction score
1
Location
Southampton
Your Mercedes
164 320 AMG & 211 320CDI
You. Can get the actuator repaired yes. One of the only company's is CR Turbos in New Milton
tel:01425 638426


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Carl@MBS

<span style="color: red;">Authorised Forum Support
Joined
Oct 8, 2012
Messages
139
Reaction score
1
Location
Southampton
Your Mercedes
164 320 AMG & 211 320CDI
And yes you are rite remove and check the egr valve for clogging and the. Associated pipe work too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
T

topliner

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
94
Reaction score
4
Your Mercedes
E280 CDI SPORT
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #4
Hi,
managed to remove the EGR valve after plenty of persuasion, I was surprised to see it wasn't too dirty, using some brake cleaner and a rag I removed what I could of the carbon/soot and then checked the actual valve was seating correctly by putting some light machine oil on the valve seat and left it for while, nothing leaked through. I've also removed and cleaned the exhaust back pressure sensor. What I would like to know before reassembling everything, is there any way to clean the rest of the EGR associated pipe work without having to remove it all ?
 
OP
T

topliner

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
94
Reaction score
4
Your Mercedes
E280 CDI SPORT
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #5
I have done all the cleaning of the associated pipes, does the stored faults have to be cleared to clear the limp mode running. p.s. the engine management light has now gone off.

Thanks in advance
 

S.Speed

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2009
Messages
5,066
Reaction score
13
Location
Lancashire
Your Mercedes
Older Citroen Now :-(
No..
Limp mode should stop once the fault has been cured..
Old fault codes shouldn't affect the running of the car
 

Cole@MBS

Forum Supporter
Authorised Forum Supporter
Joined
Dec 1, 2008
Messages
13,702
Reaction score
950
Age
54
Location
Southampton
Website
www.mbssouthampton.co.uk
Your Mercedes
124 300 CE 24 Coupe, C220CDI, Porsche 911 4s, Dolomite sprint,
Not always the case Simon, sometimes stored fault codes can cause a prob, ecu still see a code logged, I suspect the op still has a fault with the car......
 
OP
T

topliner

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
94
Reaction score
4
Your Mercedes
E280 CDI SPORT
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #8
Hi, as cole@mbs says I still have a fault with the car. I will have to get it on star and get the stored code erased and then see what happens. Thanks again for your replies.
 
OP
T

topliner

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
94
Reaction score
4
Your Mercedes
E280 CDI SPORT
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #9
Hi gents need your help again.
I managed to get the car on star today and erased the stored codes, after clearing the codes I turned on the ignition ( didn't start the car) and instantly the Y77/1 boost pressure regulator was logged again.
My question is with the fault being logged as soon as the ignition is switched on, does this point to the actuator internal wiring/circuitry being faulty?
I have read on a forum somewhere that the circuit board inside the actuator can suffer from dry joints. I only suspect this as the acutator to my thinking does not actually do anything until the engine is running under load at which point the actuator would adjust the boost as required.
As always many thanks in advance.
 

Carl@MBS

<span style="color: red;">Authorised Forum Support
Joined
Oct 8, 2012
Messages
139
Reaction score
1
Location
Southampton
Your Mercedes
164 320 AMG & 211 320CDI
The actuator will move as soon as you turn the ignition on, nu only to set its position, it then moves once the engine is running. When you have it in star use the activations function to operate it? If it doesn't do anything then its faulty, if it does move then there is a good chance the fault lies elsewhere like the inlet port motor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
 
OP
T

topliner

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
94
Reaction score
4
Your Mercedes
E280 CDI SPORT
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #11
Hi All,
just to update and possibly help others.

I carried out the actuation tests on the turbo actuator using star, but this came back ok.
I still suspected the actuator, with the code erased then switching on the ignition the same fault code would instantly reappear.

Luckily we have a family friend with the same engined car and he was kind enough to let me remove the actuator from his car (which is running perfect) and let me fit my suspect actuator after which I turned on the ignition and the same fault code came up instantly on his car, now I know the actuator is the culprit.
I removed the actuator from the turbo and opened up the actuator by removing the six clips, doing this gives you one half of the actuator with the electronic circuitry and the other half containing the motor and the plastic worm drive.
In the motor side of the casing I found the plastic worm drive was ok but some carbon dust which I think must be from the contacts in the motor so I cleaned this using contact cleaner with the straw supplied, and thoroughly sprayed the inside of the motor through the vent holes and left it to dry.

Looking at the circuit board side of the actuator there are a few wire links going from the the circuit board to the edge of the case (little wire bridges if you like), I touched each one of these in turn and one the links just broke away. I used a dremel, cleaned up the surfaces and soldered a new piece of wire into place.
I refitted the actuator to my car took it for a drive and it was absolutely fine, I have since driven over 700 miles and the fault has not reappeared.
Hope this helps someone.
 

TurksMB

New Registration
Joined
Mar 30, 2020
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Your Mercedes
C200 s204 2008 2.1
Hi guys i am knew to the forum. @topliner your having the same issue i am having. Only mine says boost actuator short to ground, so guessing its the little wires like yours. How easy was it to disconnect the actuator and did you have to remove the whole turbo as well? Please help as local garages round here, want to charge heaven and earth.
 

Rob76

Senior Member
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
299
Reaction score
192
Location
Coventry, UK
Your Mercedes
S211 E280 CDI Sport
Mine had very similar symptoms - and yes the actuator gearing was worn inside, but compounded by sticky turbo vanes - causing boost faults.
Interestingly - i have read that actuators are matched to turbo's - so are not interchangeable; so Topliner's experience in swapping them over is a bit of an eye opener :)
My turbo was sent off for refurb - cleaning etc including the actuator (Midland Turbo); hence the report on its condition.
While it was all in bits - the swirl flap motors and oil cooler seals were also done as precautionary measures.
 

mersum1es

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2010
Messages
2,352
Reaction score
427
Location
Finland
Your Mercedes
W212/-09/350CDI, W219/-07/320CDI, EX:W220/-01/320CDI, EX:W211/-04/320CDI, EX:W210/-01/270CDI
Just two weeks ago I diagnosed faulty turbo actuator of one OM642, car went to turbo specialist and they changed actuator to new one, price around 300€. 2nd hand actuators are around 100-200€ but like said it must be precise similar.
I have read few success strories of home garage repairs too, better chance if no need to open whole turbo (fault in alectric actuator only).
 

ajlsl600

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2013
Messages
9,031
Reaction score
6,029
Location
france
Your Mercedes
clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
Hi All,
just to update and possibly help others.

I carried out the actuation tests on the turbo actuator using star, but this came back ok.
I still suspected the actuator, with the code erased then switching on the ignition the same fault code would instantly reappear.

Luckily we have a family friend with the same engined car and he was kind enough to let me remove the actuator from his car (which is running perfect) and let me fit my suspect actuator after which I turned on the ignition and the same fault code came up instantly on his car, now I know the actuator is the culprit.
I removed the actuator from the turbo and opened up the actuator by removing the six clips, doing this gives you one half of the actuator with the electronic circuitry and the other half containing the motor and the plastic worm drive.
In the motor side of the casing I found the plastic worm drive was ok but some carbon dust which I think must be from the contacts in the motor so I cleaned this using contact cleaner with the straw supplied, and thoroughly sprayed the inside of the motor through the vent holes and left it to dry.

Looking at the circuit board side of the actuator there are a few wire links going from the the circuit board to the edge of the case (little wire bridges if you like), I touched each one of these in turn and one the links just broke away. I used a dremel, cleaned up the surfaces and soldered a new piece of wire into place.
I refitted the actuator to my car took it for a drive and it was absolutely fine, I have since driven over 700 miles and the fault has not reappeared.
Hope this helps someone.


i love it when someone wriggles out of the benz parts counter line .well done you ! did you by chance take any pictures of yr circuit board ?
 
Top Bottom