And so it begins.. tackling r230 wheel arch rust.

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Thanks.. lol btw, the first link is for tents/outdoor clothing etc.. :)

I think that given the nature of how I will be using the seam sealer. There must be cheaper alternatives. I think I am effectively looking for something a bit sticky and thick that will fill the void.
 

Kev555

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LOL shoudnt be posting things when I should be in bed instead Conor:D rectified now
 

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By the way, whats the black stuff on the metal after the rust remover was washed off?
Conor it's rust that has been "converted". As I suggested earlier in the thread I use these blackened areas to identify where rust still needs to be removed.
 

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Wow, wot a drama, just to get at arches... And wow again there's 3 x rust there as on my 01 clk! I first got at mine about 6 yr ago and each 2 yr since you never at that stage get rid of it, more like control. I catch mine before it gets to spider or blister, downside color match ain't perfect but I can live with that.....
Yep, you will be there 2 every years
 
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Conor it's rust that has been "converted". As I suggested earlier in the thread I use these blackened areas to identify where rust still needs to be removed.

Yep, you will be there 2 every years

I really don't think I will need to come back to this job in a while, if I am honest. I know lots of people say "there's not way to remove rust" and "it always comes back" etc.. But I genuinely don't see how the rust can will just "magic" back here once it has been finished. Perhaps I am be naive.
 

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I really don't think I will need to come back to this job in a while, if I am honest. I know lots of people say "there's not way to remove rust" and "it always comes back" etc.. But I genuinely don't see how the rust can will just "magic" back here once it has been finished. Perhaps I am be naive.

Do post back in a few years
 
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.. So I am clearly not a professional videographer, but here is a quick clip I recorded yesterday. Sorry it's a bit shaky at times, as the gimble on the camera has a mind of its own and I didn't want to knock it of any surfaces.

You will also see that on the arches towards the front end of the car that run perpendicular to the road are both a bit dodgy looking. They will need to be evened off and made a bit more aesthetic as they will be visible from the road.

Oh one note: In the video I say it's all clean and sound like it's finished but there were a few bits needing further treatment and this was prior to that. My mistake in the video.

 
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Jim2

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I done the Vito rear arches last OCT, buffed them back to clean metal inside and out. Kurust treated them, coat of primer and coat of 2 pack paint through the spray gun. Good layer of waxoyl on inside of arches and they are blistering again:mad:

That's the problem with a rust repair job..... its actually deep in the metal ( as in badly pitted ) the only real long term cure is replace the rusty metal with new. And even then you have to make sure that you cut deep enough into the good metal, so that you are joining the new metal to good metal. This is basically a job for a professional, and a fully equipped workshop. True, you can grind or sand down the rusted part's, treat them with anti-corrosion, get them painted, and it will look a fine job, but even with the best of intention's, the clock will be ticking. I've done quite a few rust jobs on different makes cars, and this is what happens in my experience.
 
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That's the problem with a rust repair job..... its actually deep in the metal ( as in badly pitted ) the only real long term cure is replace the rusty metal with new. And even then you have to make sure that you cut deep enough into the good metal, so that you are joining the new metal to good metal. This is basically a job for a professional, and a fully equipped workshop. True, you can grind or sand down the rusted part's, treat them with anti-corrosion, get them painted, and it will look a fine job, but even with the best of intention's, the clock will be ticking. I've done quite a few rust jobs on different makes cars, and this is what happens in my experience.

Fair enough. What is the average time, before the rust returns to a visible point and becomes in need of another comprehensive job?

@LostKiwi how long is your job done now? (On the arches of R230?)
 

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Fair enough. What is the average time, before the rust returns to a visible point and becomes in need of another comprehensive job?

@LostKiwi how long is your job done now? (On the arches of R230?)
3 years and still perfect.
 

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If you do the job properly the rust won't return. If you don't, the rust will return - it's very simple. I've done several cars which were rusty as a nail and the rust hasn't come back, 2 of which I still have and which were done 15 years ago. And I'm no professional- it's not a professional's job imo, just one that takes time and patience.
 

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Looking good. What is the silver paint for? Just sealing overnight? Will you put filler on that directly or what? I am wondering if I need to filler direct onto metal / paint or if I can epoxy prime spray first and then again after. I feel like I should filler directly onto metal, that has been keyed with 80 grit to help bite, what do you think?

The silver paint is just hammerite silver to keep the moisture out whilst the other jobs are being completed. Will remove it when l am ready to fill and paint although it will stay on the inner panels because it’s a good match to my body colour.
On yours always apply filler to bare clean metal. Looks like it’s coming along nicely. Just one thing, on the bottom edge of the wing where the bumper seats and the sill moulding seats there is a stick on protector to stop the panels chafing through the paint. I think they are called foils at Mercedes. They are self adhesive and not a lot of money. They go on after your paintwork is finished.
Keep up the good work mate !
 

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Fair enough. What is the average time, before the rust returns to a visible point and becomes in need of another comprehensive job?

@LostKiwi how long is your job done now? (On the arches of R230?)

All depends on how much of the rust was removed, and how well it was sealed up after wards... Bare metal + Oxygen = rust. I've seen a lot of jobs where the rusted section was cleaned down well with a sander, a coat of fillers applied ( or several coats, as the case may be ) the area primed and painted, the under side well sealed, and it can last quite a long time. ( see Kiwi's post ) I've also seen jobs where after a few mths, the rust has started to show again. Replacing the rusted section's with clean metal will give the best result. But from what I've seen from your pic's, you are going well, so continue and see how it goes. If after a few mths, the rust starts to show through again, then as the car is a keeper, you could consider going down the metal replacement route. Good Luck with it. One tip for you Conor...in the video, at about 20 sec I think, where you are rubbing your finger along the edge of the wing....the very edge is where a lot of the rusting start's, because there is not enough "insulation" on it, so when the job is finished, I'd go over these edges with a paint brush, and give them several coats of what ever sealant you will use. Given the thickness of the metal on the edges, it does not allow for a sufficient coverage when its being sprayed, and as I mentioned, this is where rusting can start.
 
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Kev555

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That's the problem with a rust repair job..... its actually deep in the metal ( as in badly pitted ) the only real long term cure is replace the rusty metal with new. And even then you have to make sure that you cut deep enough into the good metal, so that you are joining the new metal to good metal. This is basically a job for a professional, and a fully equipped workshop. True, you can grind or sand down the rusted part's, treat them with anti-corrosion, get them painted, and it will look a fine job, but even with the best of intention's, the clock will be ticking. I've done quite a few rust jobs on different makes cars, and this is what happens in my experience.
Thats the bit that annoys me Jim, the metal on mine was good with very little pitting, just seemed to be surface rust on the front side of arch, top of arch is just fine, I also painted the small panel to the front side of the arch, when I was taking it down to the metal I uncovered a rust water mark on the panel which hadn't showed through the paint yet but was something that was clearly there before the panel was primed when new. I have seen this before on other body panels on vehicles which have suffered from rust issues early in life. Vito is going back on the lift this week to sort a noisy handbrake shoe, I will probably do some cosmetic work to the area again to keep it in shape
 

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I've found that one of the best ways to remove rampant rust on sheet steel and so revert to bright
steel, is by applying a phosphoric based rust remover in a low viscosity form
(ie watery), with repeated brushed on applications preferably keeping the affected area wet,

The rust turns black (magnetite) and can eventuallly be hand wired brushed off as soft flaky small
scabs. Tedious/boring takes about 2 or 3 days, even longer on thick steel deep rust, takes
a bit of patience rather than muscle.

This is after initially power wire brushing/grinding/flap discing the rusted surfaces of course
and getting the worst of the rust off.

I find so called 'rust conversion' products that state their products can be painted over
after the rust blackens to a so called harmless state, to be only a temporary fix.
In fact I know some to actually claim only 'about' a 2 year period of effectiveness,

When cured it can be difficult to remove these products from pinprick pitting so as to
apply further coats, because you can never be certain that no unconverted rust lurks
under the so called 'paintable' skin.
 

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Thats the bit that annoys me Jim, the metal on mine was good with very little pitting, just seemed to be surface rust on the front side of arch, top of arch is just fine, I also painted the small panel to the front side of the arch, when I was taking it down to the metal I uncovered a rust water mark on the panel which hadn't showed through the paint yet but was something that was clearly there before the panel was primed when new. I have seen this before on other body panels on vehicles which have suffered from rust issues early in life. Vito is going back on the lift this week to sort a noisy handbrake shoe, I will probably do some cosmetic work to the area again to keep it in shape

The basics of rusting is that when bare metal comes into contact with oxygen, it form's an oxide,,,rust. If the metal can be prevented from coming into contact with the air ( there's oxygen in water too ) then the rust can be prevented. And its not unknown for panels to be damaged during assembly either. If you can see rust,,,it has been exposed to the air or moisture at some stage. Clean it down as much as you can, prime it and paint it, if its underneath, coat it with a sealant, a brush on one will do fine....main thing is to protect it from the air / moisture.
 
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