Little update on the Front Lower Ball Joint replacement...
Had to do the Bottom Bal joint again because the rubber gaiter had split, and it was listed in the MOT as a "fix soon".
And I've found an easier way!
Like this, and it takes significantly less time:-
1 Jack up and remove front wheel...
The problem with doing 5k miles a year is that you'll spend far more time looking at the car than driving it.
In that case you definitely shouldn't go for a W166. They may LOOK similar to a W164, but look again and all the styling touches that work so well on the W164 just don't work at all in...
What is it about the handling you don't like?
Obviously the understeer is a buzz-killer, but that can be mitigated by the correct tyre choice. Does it throw you about on bumps? if the dampers are more than about 40000 miles old, they will be doing hardly any damping at all...time for a change...
I fitted a D6 to my ML a few years ago, took about an hour. Would have been quicker if Brabus took the trouble to identify the connectors......
It felt no different than before when I first drove it, but after a while it seemed to be generally quicker. Time for a couple of 0-60 runs...
I'm very windy about levering the inner CVJ away from the front final drive case...I always think I'll break the circlip or crack the final drive casting... That would turn into a REALLY long job.
So.... I decided to take the inner CVJ apart as the internal circlip is very easy-access (just...
I've often thought of using these split boots, but thought the grease would get into the parts you have to glue and make them impossible to stick.
Well, It would if I did them anyway...
I've generally gone with stretchy boots, which means the CVJ doesn't have to be taken apart. Saves the...
Mark, it sure does, but I wanted more grip, smoother ride and rim protection that the 285's give me.
The financial hit is worth it....
Now, if only there was something I could do about the £555 Road Tax...
Here's an idea.
You've spent a 4-figure (upwards) sum in investigative work so far, right?
Plan of action:-
1. Sell the car when the gearbox is hot.
2. Look up the price of an identical car on Autotrader, ebay etc. If you can get a relatively identical one to yours for less than your selling...
AMGeed, those Falkens look like a bargain......what a shame they don't supply them in 285/50x18...
As I'm broke ATM after paying the ridiculously-high Road Tax for the ML. I'll be looking at low-end tyres for the rear, but at the low-end, it's even more important to do your homework before you...
Seems unfair, but life is.
In my case, it could be proved that the remap was done before I bought it, by hacking into the ECU software, but I didn't know one way or the other, because I only found out on the day I sold it...(literally 1/2 hour before the new owner collected it).
I still...
My point was how would the insurance company blame it on you?
You had NO knowledge of it, because it wasn't you that remapped it.....
You could equally argue that the headlining colour had been changed from standard because it didn't match the previous owner's poodle... You would not be in a...
So, you buy a secondhand car and drive it for a few years.
When you decide to sell, you look out the paperwork and a CD from a tuning company falls out of the handbook. The car is obviously re-mapped.
So, you have been driving a modified car for all these years and both you and the insurance...
Do a search for "Mercedes ML spares" (or "parts", or "Breaking"), that should get you scrapyards/owners that are breaking them.
Then it's a simple matter of negotiating the price...
There's a mobile Car electrician (frequently on here) .
based in Carshalton who will supply a new fob for about £140.
Worked for me about a year ago, and no problems since.
If only I could remember his name...
Plenty of W124s hitting the Scrapyard, should be easy to pick up a used dash.
The only problem is the many, many man-hours to swap it over... Then rattle-hunting and chasing non-working dashboard lights after you've done it...
Enjoy it, they are great cars.
Did you go for the 3 litre 24V...
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