CDI3 and above use a PWM or frequency based MAF signal for their sensors. Theres no point trying to measure DC voltage on their signal pins, because its a pulse train that is encoding the MAF reading.
This mod only works with CDI2, as they have an analogue voltage for the MAF.
Like I said. Its not the tyre size thats the issue. Its the process of R and I the wheels that has precipitated a fault. I have ML270's that have run bigger than 270/70R17 for well over a decade.
I have bigger tyres on all my ML270's and a friend has even bigger ones on his. Its not the tyre size thats the issue.
What has happened is you are in limp mode due to some other issue.
Since you noticed it just after you change the tyres, my money would be on something like a wheelspeed...
I have a fleet of ML270s I maintain. I recently had to replace 15yo Bilstien B6 front shock absorbers on one of them. The LH shock had broken its lower eyelet off, but was otherwise fine. And the Bilstein bump stop was in perfect condition. It even still low-speed damped stronger than a brand...
I think that hose is supposed to go into the back of the injector well at the very back of the engine rocker cover. Its to drain any fuel that leaks from the injectors/fittings on top of the engine.
The fuel is thinner viscosity when its hot, so a badly leaking-off injector can start to show up when hot, but fine when cold.
Cam and crank sensors you can spray some knid of aerosol freeze spray on the sensor when hot to see if it then starts like it does when the engine is cold.
Somethibg must be causing that MAF to drop to zero. I think the ECU calculates MAF value by reading the voltage but also incorporating the air temp? So maybe the air temp sensor is flakey? When it does it next it might be worth measuring the voltage at the MAF pin to make sure its still ok to...
Somethings not right with those readings. Are you sure youve got the +5V pin supplying the circuit? And the MAF signal circuit matches exactly the EGR delete circuit, and the EGR transducer permanently unplugged?
You need both measurements, one with EGR on 100% duty, and one with EGR off. There is an EGR test in MB star that shows the MAF reading and allows you to switch EGR on and off.
As long as you get a MAF reading roughly in the middle of the green band in star with EGR off. Then and then it drops...
My sprinter has a tiny exhaust maifold leak that causes this. Its got one broken stud but no soot showing.
It whitsles on take off when cold. Once the exhaust heats a bit it stops doing it.
But it also does it on a long overrun. I guess the gasses in the exhaust are just cold air then, so it...
The killing of MAF sensors is just a theory. I certainly didnt want to be replacing them every 6 months until I maybe found one same as my original, so I just deleted the MAF as well.
Since your flaps are gone already. I'd just do the EGR and MAF delete for the cost of a few $ and be done with...
You aren't the first, and certainly won't be the last to think you have a perfectly running CDI. When in reality you are in one of the many silent limp modes the ECU will readily put you into. RPM alone cannot be the determining factor as to limp mode, there are at least 3 different rpm levels...
Mitsubishi are one of the ones that have used MAF for base engine control in the past eg. on their EVO 10. Its quite a dangerous method of control on a turbo engine given how unreliable and prone to dirt MAF sensors are. And Nissan used it on their ZD30 Diesel engines, which is why they self...
Think about it. When EGR is opened, MAF must drop, and vice versa. The ecu actively checks for this during idle.
This physical EGR blockoff was all tried on the ML in the very early days of this mod. It doesn't work.
If yours works then maybe yours already has the mod.
Have you connected star...
You will be in limp mode. The ECU uses the MAF to detect if the EGR is actually working by looking for a drop in air flow. Which you dont have. This is what the shunt is for. Limp mode is quite dangerous because it greatly effects your pull away from standing start.
The CAN faults are usually from a low/dead battery so ignore those for now. It looks like you have DPF issues at some point.
Also that last one with the stop lamp switch can put you straight into limp mode.
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