124 front lower wishbones

[David124T]

I have been told that the bushes on both front wishbones are worn and need to be replaced. I have been quoted just under 4 figures to replace both sides with complete new assemblies. I don't know if that is a decent price but it has made me consider doing it myself. I have read a few threads on this and it seems the biggest drawback is that the correct spring compressor must be used or death could well be the result!
I have found this for sale from the States:
http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=MK-1801&CTMP=1
Has anyone any experience of this company or have a better solution?
Thanks.
David

 

[jibcl500]

I bought a compressor from sealey for about £40. The coils need to be compressed from the inside, the sealey tool is a fiddle on the 124 spring because its narrow but its still doable. took me an hour per side and most of that time was getting the tool in the right place. Search spring compressor there should be a pic I posted.

jib

 

[Juddian]

David, i couldn't comment on the feasability of doing it yourself, but that price does seem very high.
I'm assuming here that you have a 320 with the wishbones that have the bottom ball joint welded in.
I know these are about £225 each from MB, but i got a pair from Euro for about the same price for a pair.
Give an hour or so a side and you should be able to half that price and get some new anti roll bar bushes in at the same time if needed.

I supplied the parts and my indy fitted them, maybe worth a ring round some indy's a little further afield.

Judd.

 

[kth286]

Yes - need to know precise model: engine size, year, etc to get proper advice.

VIN number from screen always best.

And your location to get recommendations to indies.

 

[roofless]

hi is it worth the cost of the s-compressors if you only use them the odd time i think a indy is the best bet i wish i did its a sod of a job

 

[roadhog]

Yes - need to know precise model: engine size, year, etc to get proper advice.

VIN number from screen always best.

And your location to get recommendations to indies.

Surely not on a public forum?

Post that little lot and you're all set for a bout of cloning! Or worse....

 

[C220GJS]

Surely not on a public forum?

Post that little lot and you're all set for a bout of cloning! Or worse....

Look at the windscreen of any modern Merc and the VIN is there for anyone to see and make use of.

 

[roadhog]

Not quite the same as posting it on t'internet.

 

[David124T]

Thanks to all for the replies. Feeling a bit jaded at the moment. Was at a wedding (and reception) for most of yesterday.
The car is a 1993 220E. It is the n/s ball joint (at the end of the wishbone) that is the main problem - very noisy when the steering is turned. The inboard bushes are cracked/perished.
I know that the bushes and ball joint can be replaced but that seems more difficult than just replacing the whole of the wishbone. Of course, if one side is renewed, then the other side needs to be done also.
As for buying expensive tools, I agree that it doesn't always make sense. However, with an item like this spring compressor, once I have finished with it, I am pretty sure that I would get a good second hand price on e-bay or on this forum. You only have to look at the number of threads where this tool would be a godsend.
A bit of good news. I managed to speak to my local indie yesterday morning. They have quoted three hours (minimum) labour plus parts. The minimum is because they have had occasions where the inboard bolts have seized and caused untold problems. We shall see.
That seems to me a reasonable quote which I will probably take up.
The only question left is do I go for genuine MB parts or something from Euro or GSF? I don't mind paying for genuine parts because I know that I am getting quality. But if I can get the same item, made the same MB supplier cheaper, then obviously I will go for that every time. Has anyone any reccomendations?
Thanks

David

 

[roofless]

its all down to the car do put a part that lasts 10 years say on a car that might have only a few years left on my 124 1993 150k i use the cheap parts as i only use it for work to keep the mls of my other car but still love the 124 & was close to scraping it but by fitting cheap & used parts it keeps it on the road but if it was a1 & i was keeping it long term i would use mb parts head or heart .its a good idea to spray the bolts with pen-oil to let it soak in & keep the hours down at the indi

 

[David Nock]

A similar idea David--- I've just had some chassis work done on the old Mazda and I spent a few hours beforehand making sure that all the axle tie rod bolts were all loosened, freed off and then retightened, so that the Chassis repair man could have an easy run at it.

Re the VIN, only the first few digits are needed eg W2091234xxxx, then of course you're only placing the VIN to within a few thousand cars or so.

There aren't so many pattern parts for the Mazda as for the Merc, but all my motoring life I've always gone for original parts, and always spent on repairs regardless, as it helps defer the decision on when to change. That's a money saver much better than non-original parts.

 

[David124T]

My head's starting to clear a bit now (said I was jaded!)
Just been doing a bit of surfing on the interweb. It seems that Lemforder are OEM suppliers (although there will be at least one other, probably febi). Luckily, euro car parts list Lemforder as replacements so I will be visiting them this week.
Thanks
David

 

[Juddian]

Lemforder, thats it, been racking my feeble one trying to remember.

My indy said either of those 2 makes would be good replacements, he's not easily pleased either.

 

[David124T]

It's probably been suggested before, but it would be useful if someone within the club could compile a list of OEM suppliers as and when members discover them. I don't think many of us would visit a dealer to buy Bosch spark plugs or a replacement wiper. We know that they are genuine items, readily available at cheaper prices.
I have an obscure one. The ABS sensors for my 220E are Bosch but MB still hold the patent. Therefore, they must be purchased from a dealer. Not much help but it would have saved me hours of time and phone calls if I had known.
David

 

[jc124]

124 wishbones

these are easy to do i can get wishbones for 124 about £100 each side and new bolt from mecr dearler and you laughing i take 1 hour a side if old bolts are free if not there need to be cut off once you have put back together you need to get it track up relined and it will good as new

 

[jc124]

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/

 

[kid-jensen]

Jc124,

I'm just about to take on this job and I'm encouraged that you say it's easy.......

How did you compress the springs?

Any other tips?

 

[Richard Moakes]

Jc124,

I'm just about to take on this job and I'm encouraged that you say it's easy.......

How did you compress the springs?

Any other tips?

As a person who has done the job a couple of times now, I wouldn't say it was easy!

1). The camber bolts can and do seize, you need to use an angle grinder or sabre saw to cut them without damaging the chassis mounts.

2). The pinch bolt that clamps the damper/stub axle to the lower balljoint will also be tricky to remove, the nut will remove, but the bolt will be seized, it will take penetrating fluid, patience, a hammer and a drift to remove it, I would recommend ordering new nuts/bolts from the dealer.

3). The springs will need the proper spring compressor, which clamps from the inside, these are rare and expensive, taiwanese copies such as the JTC-1801 are ok for occasional DIY use, but I would prefer the proper Klann tool if I could afford it.

4). Some people will say you can do this by supporting the lower arm, removing the camber bolts and then lowering the arm thereby releasing spring tension, I have done this once on a car with bolts that were not seized, and it didn't feel safe to me, so I bought the correct tool.

5). If you don't remove the strut top mounting and just leave the damper/stub axle hanging, and then fit the new arm/camber bolts, then it will be a bear to get the lower balljoint taper to line up properly into the pinch on the axle, it can be done by fiddling and trial and error, but it is easier if you sort that first and then offer up the lower arm and install the camber bolts.

Good Luck,