1995 C180 Central Locking Fault

Spatz

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Hi, I have been sifting through the forum but have been unable to find any posts that help me. My manual cental locking has developed a fault. From the driver side door I can open the car but I cannot lock it, only the driver door locks and the central locking does not activate. Central locking works from passenger lock and boot lock. I am about to take my door front driver door apart to see if I can find any problem but any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Les
 

bigasotonuk

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Hi,
What happens when you use the remote fob?
I think it will be either a micro switch fault on the key lock at fault or possibly the drivers door solenoid.
But do bare in mind those items maybe ok it could just be a broken cable from these items, best to check their operation and cable continuity with a meter from the termination point in the drivers door cable separation point by lifting the sill trim opening up the cable ducting and following the door cables to their first point of termination, the door panel will have to come of so you can correctly identify the cable colours.
First place to look for cable damage would be in the flexi boot between the car and the door as its a known area of concern.
Hope this is of some help.
 
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Spatz

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Thanks Andy, have had the door trim off. Only likely component I thought might be dodgey was the switch which plugs in to the top of the locking unit. The mechanism works fine as the door locks and unlocks using either the boot lock or the passenger lock and the internal locking switch. What do you think?? By the way, I don't have a remote fob.

Many thanks for the help.

Les
 

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Hi,
Well if the drivers door solenoid is working from the other CL positions I would be definetly be looking at the switch on the lock and the wiring to that switch, like I said previous it is not unheard of cable damage in the rubber boot between the door and the car, through constant opening and shutting of the door.
 
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Spatz

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Ok Andy, makes a lot of sense, would hate to buy a new switch only to find its a cable fault, thanks again,

Les
 
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Spatz

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Just a quick update. Took the door to bits today and traced the wiring loom back to the sill cavity. Wired "Buzzed" out ok. Have been on line and got a couple of quotes for a switch from breakers. £43 from one but that is £17 postage. bit miffed at that. You can't get the switch from MERC spares. They either sell you the lock or the whole wiring loom. I am now just a bit worried that the "switch" i got a quote for might not be what I think it is. I think I am going to have to bite the bullet and risk buying the one I have been quoted for and just hope that is the problem. Will let you know what happens.

Les
 

television

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A good squirt of switch cleaner should solve it, use the non drying type from Maplins, you can also check the switch out with a meter
 
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Spatz

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Really?? can you explain Malcom. Maybe I am looking at the wrong thing. I am looking at the two pronged "cuboid" which plugs in to the locking mechanism in a recess just below where the Locking Button is. It is surrounded in plastic but internally it is encapsulated in Resin. It has 3 wires running in to the back. Blue, Brown and Black. I don't se any way to be able to test this, I would be grateful if you could explain.

Many thanks,

Les
 

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The switch itself must have a lever or something that makes a physical movement when the key is turned, I would have thought that the encapsulated thing was the infra red sensor
 
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Spatz

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Ha, thats a good point malcom, I don't have a remote fob so never even considered that. So I guess I have not been looking at the switch. This now begs the question... where is the switch situated. I was trying to follow the Haynes manual and assume I had found it when I followed what appears to be the only electrical connections to the lock. I will need to look at the manual again.

Are you able to shed any light on this.

Thanks for your time,

les
 
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Spatz

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Hi Malcom, I saw these diags today at a Merc dealer. couldn't identify the switch from them then and I still can't. I suppose the real problem is that I don't fully understand how the mechanism works. I got Haynes manual at home so I am gonna see if the wiring diagram in that will reveal anything. I think when I finish my shift I will try and get the lock out to see if i can work out which part of it is not working. I do appreciate your help, any advice is greatly appreciated.

Using your link I found this

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...417717.418&CT=F&cat=44V&SID=82&SGR=605&SGN=33

Item 107 looks most like the thing I was asuming was the switch. Called SWITCH
LOCK SWITCH, RIGHT DOOR

in the table.

Les
 
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bigasotonuk

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Hi,
I think the switch is as Malc say's item 5, but this is the entire door catch unit and the switch will be built into it, and as shown is only available as an entire unit.
If it was mine i would remove it give it a degreasing and give it a try again. Then if ok relubricate the mechanical parts.
If the unit is U/S contact member "Cosworth" as he is breaking a C Class and could possibly supply you a 2nd hand unit.
 
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Spatz

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Much thanks Andy, I agree with you. Cosworth let me know last night that he was breaking a C180 so I will be getting back to him too,

Many thanks,

Will let you know final outcome.
 

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The switch has to be there, it is this switch that operates the PSE pump, if it is a micro switch they can be cleaned by holding down the operating part and spraying in a good non drying switch cleaner
 

Dec

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The door lock below belongs to our man in Hong Kong it’s of a W202 with mechanical central locking, no remote fob, so this is what you will have in your drivers door lock.

When you turn the key in the lock, the “Arrow head” turns left or right and moves a lever which in turns activates a switch, that is how I think that it works, so taking it apart and cleaning as Andy suggest might solve the problem.
The point of my post is to alert you to the possibility that the arrow is not moving far enough when you turn the key to trigger the switch, so it might be worth flooding the lock with WD40 first, just to see what happens.

See also… http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=202018&M=111920&GA=722421&VIN=2020182f218560&CT=F&cat=44V&SID=72&SGR=030&SGN=02

Dec
attachment.php
 
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Spatz

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Guys, progress at last, not good progress but progress. Dec (thanks) is right on the button with this. I stripped it down thisavo and when I withdrew the key barrel I found that the retaining cap which the "arrow head" sits in was split. It is made from cast alloy and the wall had just cracked so that when I turned the key the paddle or aeeow would stay still and not operate the lever inside the mechanism. The opposite end of the arrow on mine is a T set at right angles to the arrow (paddle) and it sits on a rubber pad in a slot in the cap at the end of the barrel. Obviously when the barrel split, the "T" end was turning rather than the "paddle" end. I am not sure where I go from here, whether I can replace this without needing new keys etc. I will have to investigate. I may think about putting a remote locking system in if it is reasonably easy to fit.

A word of thanks to you all for youe help and advice, you have been fantastic, much appreciated.

Les
 

Dec

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I am not sure where I go from here, whether I can replace this without needing new keys etc.

I take it that it is the key barrel section similar to the one in picture is what is broken.
If you can get a replacement key barrel section, then you will be able to remove you’re existing barrel by knocking out Pin 1, as in picture, so you can retain the use of your existing key, do the same to the replacement and put your existing barrel into the replacement

Three things to remember;
1. Your existing key must be in the lock in order to extract the barrel from its housing.

2. Don’t remove the key from the barrel while it is out of the lock housing or the levers inside may fall out and there sequence order will get mixed up.

3. The replacement barrel is extracted in the same way so you MUST have the key to the replacement barrel to get its barrel out, it will be thrown away anyway as it is the rest of the barrel that you want

You could get the person who supplies the lock to extract the replacement barrel for you, all you need is the barrel housing to insert your existing barrel into.

See this to get an understanding of how the barrel and its levers work, your barrel will work in much the same way except that yours is held together by Pin 1, the boot lock is a lot more complex so its just the parts that deal with the barrel that you need to concern yourself with.

Dec
 
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Spatz

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C180 Central Locking What's Broken

I have tried to attach a modified version of the picture you posted DEC, Bear in mind that my lock looks slightly different but is basically the same. Hope it has worked. I suspect the most difficult part of all this will be sourcing a replacement lock. I am not sure how my lock comes apart in that I am wondering if the bit that is broken is physically part of the internal barrel in which case I assume I will not be able to replace the barrel and still use my key. Hope what I have said makes sense.
 

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