1995 C180 Central Locking Fault

[Dec]

I am wondering if the bit that is broken is physically part of the internal barrel in which case I assume I will not be able to replace the barrel and still use my key.

I see what you mean all right, it could very well be the case but there is only one way to make sure.

Punch out Pin 1 with a blunt nail that is thinner than the pin.
Put the key into the lock
The barrel should now come out of the housing…with or without the “arrow” bit.
It should all go back together again PROVIDED YOU DON’T REMOVE the key while it is all dismantled.

There seems to be a Pin 2 and 3 as well but I don’t think that the will be involved in the operation.

There may be a lot of differing variation of that lock, it would be wise to take a photo of yours, for reference, to make sure the replacement is the same.

Dec

 

[Dec]

There is another way around the problem if as you say “the bit that is broken is physically part of the internal barrel”

If you had a good working lock exactly the same as yours then you could take all the levers out of your broken lock and fit them into the replacement lock in the exact sequence as the were removed from the original lock.

That will work with a boot lock so it should work with a door lock PROVIDED both locks are identical, except of course for the levers.

Dec

 

[Spatz]

Brilliant Dec, you have been such a help. I will see what transpires with the lock sourcing. I will start looking on Tuesday, got a date at the golf course tomorrow. Rhanks again for all your advice,

Les

 

[Dec]

No problem, one other thing, you could get a replacement lock first, shouldn’t cost much, with its key, to practice on, that way you wont be leaving your car in an unsecured position if anything goes wrong.

Either way one or the other of the above solutions should work.

Dec

 

[Dec]

Out of curiosity, I took my passenger side lock apart today, can you confirm just how similar yours is to mine, yours of course is an opposite, but should be the same design.
If it is the same then all you need is an undamaged section of lock as outlined in the Yellow dotted line and fit it to your existing barrel.

Pin 1 and 2 are punched out, this is the easiest to do it, pines 3 and 4 were too difficult to remove and best left alone.

You will not need to swap the levers and you won’t need a key for the replacement lock to do the job so ignore what I say in previous posts.
All that is needed in your case is to get the unbroken section from an identical lock.

Will do a DIY on how to do the whole job shortly

Dec

 

[Spatz]

Progress Report

Not much progress really. I have at last managed to get a spare lock. Got it from a breaker as a New one was worth more than the car Problem of course is that the lock with key I got from the breaker is slightly different from mine. I don't think i am going to be able to effect any kind of repair to either lock now.
Dec, I tried to take the pin out of my old lock to see what it was like when taken apart but the pin was being a bit stubborn. I thought I'd ask you how difficult it should be before attacking it with a lump hammer. I assume you attached a photo with your last post but I can't see one I am afraid. Similarly,your brilliant photo talk through on the Boot Lock has no pics left now. Hope this is temporary as it was brilliant.

 

[Spatz]

Further Progress

Dec, sorry to fib to you but the pictures have appeared now. Perhaps something to do with our firewall at work etc. Looking at your picture I agree with you and in fact that was my hope, my problem I think will be finding a casing the same as mine. As I have already intimated, the lock I got is different from mine so it looks like that is wasted money. I am on Night shift tonight and tomorrow but if i get the chance i will take some pics of my original lock.

Cheers,

Les

 

[Spatz]

My Lock

Hi Dec et all, I have attached a couple of pics of my lock. I can onlu fins one pin in mune which runs from one corner diadonally to the other and is very hard to budge. I can't find any other pins and so it is difficult to see how it comes apart.

 

[Dec]

Hi Les, that pin looks to be a torx screw? one either corner, torx is like an allan key ,a hex shape.

Dec

There dosent seem any other way of taking it apart other than screw it or punch it out.
Is that the origional or replacement lock from scrapyard?

 

[Spatz]

Hi Dec,

Thought the pin might be a Hex(Allan Key). Never seen a Torxx that small, not seen many allan keys that small either to be fair. The pictures are my original lock, the one that failed. I had hoped that I might be able to use the replacement lock as is and just use the key that came with it to open the Driver door but it does not work. There is a fair bit od difference phyiscally between the two locks so that is no real surprise.

Cheers,

les

 

[Dec]

It must come apart Les, put it in the freeser for a while, then pour hot water on it then plenty of penetrating oil.

There dosent seem to be anyother way other than the Hex? screws or pin whever it is.

Dec

 

[Spatz]

Hi Dec,
Sorry been trying to qualify for british open (seniors) so lock has taken a back seat for a while. I will try what you suggest over the next few days and let you know how I get on.

Les

 

[television]

One way is to put the lock in the freezer for a few hours, then heat it,,the shock of doing this could free things up,could that pin be the hollow tube type

 

[Dec]

Looking again at Les’s second picture in post #28 it looks like the circular part rotates when the key is turned and so the rod, if it weren’t broken would turn as well so it is unlikely that there is a pin through there, but 2 hex screws instead.

He shouldn’t be fiddling with locks anyway, how dose expect to qualify thinking about things like that.

Dec

 

[Spatz]

Hi Guys, thanks again for your help/suggestions on this. I have had a look at these pins under a strong Magnifying glass and there appears to be no internal flats indicating not a Hex bolt and niether does there appear to be any slots to indicate Torx. I have alos come to the conclusion that I may well be flogging a dead horse because I think I actually have 2 problems. Obviously, the lock is physically broken but I suspect there is also a problem with the internal mechanism because, today I stuck the key that came with the replacement lock (this is actually in the car ) and I was able to operate the central locking and open the car. I was however unable to lock the car agin which is the original fault I had, ie the central locking works but I can only unlock the car from the driver side door, I can not lock the car from the driver side door.

Any thoughts,

Les

 

[Dec]

Hi Les, I magnified your first picture and it really dose look to me as if you have 2 torx screws there, the seam would indicate that it must come apart at the screws?

I think you may indeed be right in that you have two problems, I think part of the main body of the lock mechanism, inside the door, may be seized/jamed and may well have caused the rod to be broken in the first place when the key was turned, perhaps with too much force agents the jammed mechanism.

Suggest you remove the lock again and drench the opening where the lock barrel was with WD40, repeat 3 times at ten minute intervals (have window closed). This will saturate the main body of the mechanism and may free it to lock and unlock.
Don’t expect immediate results, it can take several hours/days to get a result.

When the lock is put back into the door the “paddle” on the end of the rod enters a slot in the main body of the lock, when the key is turned, the “paddle” turns with it, a lever is moved which switches the C/L to lock/unlock.

Don’t be afraid to spray plenty of oil through the lock opening, there will be a bit of a stink in the car for a while.

Dec
Edit..As an after thought, if you could insert a screwdriver with a flat blade roughly the size of the paddle into the slot that the paddle normally occupies and turn the screwdriver left or right GENTLY this might speed up the process… that is, if my theory is correct about the main body of the lock being jamming.
If you get a bright light you will be able to see the slot that the paddle goes into.

 

[Spatz]

Brilliant Dec, some great ideas, I will be trying all of them with every protrubence I am blessed with well and truly crossed,

Thanks again,

Les

 

[Spatz]

Hi Guys, well I am now pretty sure that I have a problem in the locking mechanism resident inside the door cavity.It almost certainly has to be the actuating part of the mechanism whatever that may be. I drowned the mechanism in penetrating oil and wiggled the key and a screwdriver back and forward. The unlock actuator works fine but the Lock does nothing. I can get the door to lock but the central locking wont fire the rest of the locks.
I have sort of given up with my old lock for now as even if I was able to effect some sort of repair, I am pretty sure I would still be left with the same problem. I need to study the exploded diagram of the mechanism and see if I can make head or tail out of it.

Thanks for all the help and advice,

Very much appreciated,

Les