1996 Sprinter 312d Luton Van brakes binding

[ianstevens]

After leaving my sprinter standing for 1 month the nearside rear brake wouldnt realease and overheated causing a fire. If you pump the brake pedal adventually the brake does release but it takes about 10 seconds and sometimes not at all. It seems to be worst when its cold. I thought it was the caliper so changed it but still the same. I then fitted new load compensator valve still no good. Last week I fitted new rear hose to caliper still no good. Then I changed the nearside brake pipe with the driverside at the outlet on the compensator valve and the problem has swapped over to the drivers side rear brake. This tells me that the problem lies somewhere between the master cylinder and the compensator valve. The front brakes are fine but the brake pedal does travel a long way but Ive read this is common on this model. Please can anyone suggest what my next step should be as Ive run out of money and cant afford to take a chance on replacing the master cylinder if its not faulty. Also does anyone know how to correctly set up the load compensator valve adjustment arm.
Many Thanks

 

[mister_cee333]

On the panel van (I'd assume the chassis cab version is the same) there is a sliding handbrake operating mechanism underneath the van not far behind where the handbrake cable goes through the floor. It's where the cable changes from a single to one for each side. Check it's not seized and if necessary remove it and clean it down and free it off. Worth a check.

 

[dava]

After leaving my sprinter standing for 1 month the nearside rear brake wouldnt realease and overheated causing a fire. If you pump the brake pedal adventually the brake does release but it takes about 10 seconds and sometimes not at all. It seems to be worst when its cold. I thought it was the caliper so changed it but still the same. I then fitted new load compensator valve still no good. Last week I fitted new rear hose to caliper still no good. Then I changed the nearside brake pipe with the driverside at the outlet on the compensator valve and the problem has swapped over to the drivers side rear brake. This tells me that the problem lies somewhere between the master cylinder and the compensator valve. The front brakes are fine but the brake pedal does travel a long way but Ive read this is common on this model. Please can anyone suggest what my next step should be as Ive run out of money and cant afford to take a chance on replacing the master cylinder if its not faulty. Also does anyone know how to correctly set up the load compensator valve adjustment arm.
Many Thanks

WOW! I think you spent enough money. The common fault and I assumme you've checked to see that the hand brake is not seized as said above, it's internal, inset in the rear discs? If not then the most common fault is rear caliper sliders. These are the two chrome bits with rubber bits on that the 13mm bolts fit to. These seize and instead of allowing the caliper to move back and forth freely, the caliper cants to an angle and jams as well as giving a spongy brake. If you can, get them off and clean them up and reassemble with copper slip.

 

[ianstevens]

Hi thanx for replies but its definately not hand brake related. The problem lies between load compensator valve and master cylinder.

 

[dava]

When it sticks on, lossen slightly a pipe at the master cylinder, if brake fluid squirts out then the system is under pressure so you'll be looking at pressure side and not mechanical, although it could be a seized pedal or mech to load sensing valve.

 

[dave lowe]

HI 312D owners,can anyone help with getting to the linings inside rear brakes to allow me to improve a more than useless hand brake that has had all cable ajustments used up?

 

[mister_cee333]

There's small handbrake shoes inside the centre of the discs. They adjust in the same way as any shoes. The adjuster is awkwardly accessible by removing a wheel nut, but it's a bit hard to find. I'm pretty sure they're at the 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock position (obviously mirror image from each other). Use a small torch and look for the knurled adjuster, knock it round one way or the other until the wheel is jammed then turn it back a bit. If they're jammed up then you'll need to remove parts of the caliper as necessary to get the disc/drum off. If they're not jammed up you're looking at a half hour job and you don't need to remove the wheels.