2007 CLS 320 Lower ball joints

PeteWild

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CLS 2007 320 CDi
Hi all,

I've had advisories for both OS and NS lower ball joints, and while I don't think the replacement is required imminently, it obviously will at some stage.

I have a couple of questions that hopefully someone on here has come across before so may be able to offer some advice.

The car in question is a CLS 320 Cdi 2007 which I believe is a C219 although this is only something I've found in a list online, I cant find anything in the paperwork that confirms this.
Are my assumptions correct?

My second question is, after doing a bit of online checking, I am pretty sure that to remove and replace said ball joints, I am going to either need a press tool, ( I believe this is the name, a large G clamp affair) or a large hammer. Assuming I go the sensible route, I've tried googling for the press tool but even though the search does return some for sale, when you go into them they say its suitable for various 'W' models, EG W219 but don't specifically mention a C219. So has anyone bought one? Or can anyone give me a link to one that would suit?
I see some 'universal' sets that might cover the fit I need, but I don't know enough to confirm that either.
Many thanks in advance......
 

Stephen Rigby

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E class 270d.
If you are comfortable removing the full hub assembly. A big hammer and socket in a vice will do it or a press.
The tools you see on flebay etc are so that you can replace the lower ball joint when its still on the car etc.
 

mioba

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W124/E200, W220/S320CDI, W205/C200, W251/R350CDI 4Matic
The first these numbers of your VIN will confirm the model designation.

A press is more than a big clamp, you need a puller and press (the force of a g clamp wint cut it) for the rubbers. Any good indy will the do the job.
 

onefortheroad

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Me -2019 GLC 350 coupe AMG line. Mrs- ford kuga 65 plate awd powershift .
Its W219 and you need a C clamp press.


Everything w211 e class is the same as w219 cls . Suspension parts especially.
 

Wighty

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As @onefortheroad says , that’s the kit . I did my w211 lower ball joints the other week as a first time diy’er .
I got Lemforder lower ball joints for £20 each from Autodoc
 

Wighty

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The first these numbers of your VIN will confirm the model designation.

A press is more than a big clamp, you need a puller and press (the force of a g clamp wint cut it) for the rubbers. Any good indy will the do the job.
You only need the big clamp buddy , the adapters are designed to not cut the rubber on the ball joint
 

onefortheroad

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Me -2019 GLC 350 coupe AMG line. Mrs- ford kuga 65 plate awd powershift .
As @onefortheroad says , that’s the kit . I did my w211 lower ball joints the other week as a first time diy’er .
I got Lemforder lower ball joints for £20 each from Autodoc

no info is like no other info when its from the horses mouth , from lads thats done this job before. other people 2nd guess. :)
 
OP
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PeteWild

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CLS 2007 320 CDi
  • Thread Starter
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You guys are the nuts ! :cool:
Thanks for all the replies, and looking at the VIN the first bit is WDD219 so I'm pretty happy now that its a W219, although where I got C219 from is anybody guess, no wonder I couldn't find it on the documentation.
And now we've cleared that bit up, it makes sense why my online searches for the big clamp were all referring to W219's despite me searching for C219's !

Thanks OneForTheRoad for the recommendation, and Wighty for the confirmation of the tool required, Ill order that and get cracking.
Thanks to all who responded for taking the time to do so, it's seriously appreciated.
 

Wighty

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You guys are the nuts ! :cool:
Thanks for all the replies, and looking at the VIN the first bit is WDD219 so I'm pretty happy now that its a W219, although where I got C219 from is anybody guess, no wonder I couldn't find it on the documentation.
And now we've cleared that bit up, it makes sense why my online searches for the big clamp were all referring to W219's despite me searching for C219's !

Thanks OneForTheRoad for the recommendation, and Wighty for the confirmation of the tool required, Ill order that and get cracking.
Thanks to all who responded for taking the time to do so, it's seriously appreciated.
Let us know how you get on buddy
 

onefortheroad

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Me -2019 GLC 350 coupe AMG line. Mrs- ford kuga 65 plate awd powershift .
Cls is coupe long sedan .
My e class is c207 . 2 door coupe. Its a w212 ,but w212 is a 4 door

The convertible version is A207 ..

Ha ha don't ask its nut busting !!!!
 
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ItsAPU

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2006 CLS500
You guys are the nuts ! :cool:
Thanks for all the replies, and looking at the VIN the first bit is WDD219 so I'm pretty happy now that its a W219, although where I got C219 from is anybody guess, no wonder I couldn't find it on the documentation.
And now we've cleared that bit up, it makes sense why my online searches for the big clamp were all referring to W219's despite me searching for C219's !

Thanks OneForTheRoad for the recommendation, and Wighty for the confirmation of the tool required, Ill order that and get cracking.
Thanks to all who responded for taking the time to do so, it's seriously appreciated.
Sorry for the late reply - I've read mixed things. Some say that 'W'XYZ refers to the American version (although the internet seems to always call it a WXYZ), whereas 'C'XYZ is a reference to the European version.

Similar to @onefortheroad mentioned, I have also read that the 'W' series just refers to all types of chassis, whereas 'C' refers to coupe (and therefore a subset of 'W' chassis).

Doesn't really leave us anywhere further but hope its of some general knowledge use!
 

LostKiwi

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'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
W - saloon (4 doors).
S - estate
C - Coupé (two doors, hard top).
R - Roadster (2 doors and folding roof).

Exceptions...
R, ML are W when they should technically be S as they have the rear estate type door.

Next three numbers define the model. Next three define the sub model.


So W251123 is an R Class facelift, long wheelbase, 350cdi.
R230475 is SL500, European market.

Next there are more characters denoting LHD/RHD and manufacturing plant.
For example 2A is RHD, made in Alabama.

Somewhere on the site is a full detailed explanation that I did a few years back.
 

LostKiwi

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Found it:
 

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