7G Transmission colour after 2k miles

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Dear all,

I've noticed some jerks or hold backs into my transmission since done the service on it but as a precaution measure I've decided to do the gearbox service once again. After 2k miles, the oil is kind of brown/yellowish instead of blue but looks clear. When the last service has been done, genuine Mercedes oil went in, which was blue and now looks like it turned yellowish/brown colour. I suspect the jerks could be from one of the solenoids in the valve body but I'm more concerned about the colour of the oil. Does the transmission colour change even after 2k miles or I should be checking anything else?

Any input would be highly appreciate it as I really need help. 1.jpeg 2.jpeg
 

ajlsl600

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looks ok to me.
 
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looks ok to me.
Thanks for your reply. But the oil was blue and now changed its colour to the one in pics. Is this normal? I thought it should remain the same colour in transmissions.
 

steveq

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When I changed the ATF in my S212 with a 7G+ box, it came out a brownish colour. It had previously been changed prior to my ownership so I don't know what fluid was put in. It was a main dealer who did the change so I assume they used the correct blue / green fluid.
That dye might wear off very quickly after a few heat cycles if yours is gone after only 2K miles. Anyway, you know you put in the correct fluid.
Were there any particles on the magnets or sludge in the sump?
 
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Were there any particles on the magnets or sludge in the sump?
Thanks for your reply. No, nothing at all plus the oil it's clear, the only thing worries me it's its colour. After only 2k miles to turn that colour, I don't think it's ideal.
 

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If you say the gearbox has been jerking , I wonder if a fault code has been logged ?
 
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If you say the gearbox has been jerking , I wonder if a fault code has been logged ?

No codes at all, nothing at all. Has been checked 5 times in a period of 2 months and never got a transmission fault code.
 

ajlsl600

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Thanks for your reply. No, nothing at all plus the oil it's clear, the only thing worries me it's its colour. After only 2k miles to turn that colour, I don't think it's ideal.

it still looks ok to me, any sign of a burn smell. if not plod on. if yr really worried change it again.
 

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when you change the fluid about 2 litres is left inside, so some change due to mix and match is likely (thus doing twice is a good idea).

however these boxes on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being broken and 10 being a BWM 8 speed autobox) are at best a 7 and some closer to 5. With a bit of wear / abuse and with a few changes in oil spec, if not actually broken before the fluid change often appear to be worse after the fluid is swapped out. If lucky the adaption software will most mask the disastrous build over the next few months and or you get used to it.
 

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when you change the fluid about 2 litres is left inside, so some change due to mix and match is likely (thus doing twice is a good idea).

however these boxes on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being broken and 10 being a BWM 8 speed autobox) are at best a 7 and some closer to 5. With a bit of wear / abuse and with a few changes in oil spec, if not actually broken before the fluid change often appear to be worse after the fluid is swapped out. If lucky the adaption software will most mask the disastrous build over the next few months and or you get used to it.
What a load of tosh
 

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Are you sure that it was a complete flush and change? Trans, Torque Converter Cooler and pipes? Sometimes it happens that only the trans fluid is changed....open the drain stud ( as in engine oil) drain, and refill. But this is not a complete, only partial change.
 

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As above some mixing of residual oil may have caused the colour change. If the oil smells like burnt toffee that's a problem.
 

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when you change the fluid about 2 litres is left inside, so some change due to mix and match is likely (thus doing twice is a good idea).

however these boxes on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being broken and 10 being a BWM 8 speed autobox) are at best a 7 and some closer to 5. With a bit of wear / abuse and with a few changes in oil spec, if not actually broken before the fluid change often appear to be worse after the fluid is swapped out. If lucky the adaption software will most mask the disastrous build over the next few months and or you get used to it.

If a BMW 8 speed is the benchmark then we’re all ****d!
 
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Are you sure that it was a complete flush and change? Trans, Torque Converter Cooler and pipes? Sometimes it happens that only the trans fluid is changed....open the drain stud ( as in engine oil) drain, and refill. But this is not a complete, only partial change.

You're right. Only the transmission oil has been changed and nothing else. Nobody touched the torque converter or the cooler.

So basically this is what everyone expects the oil colour to be even though has been changed 2k miles ago?
 

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You're right. Only the transmission oil has been changed and nothing else. Nobody touched the torque converter or the cooler.

So basically this is what everyone expects the oil colour to be even though has been changed 2k miles ago?

If you go on Amazon or Ebay etc, and search for "MB 722.6 Transmission Fluid Change Kits" you will get a lot of results. Most show the new filter, dipstick lock pin and gasket +5 or 6 ltrs transmission fluid. Some just show the 5 or 6 ltrs of fluid. This is not enough fluid to do a complete flush and change....it will only replace what is in the sump....anything from 3-5 ltrs. In this case, less than half the fluid is replaced, so of course the colour will be changed too. If I remember right, I used 10-11 Ltrs to flush and change my one.If I were you, I would have it done again, with specific instructions that ALL the oil has to be replaced. Sump, Torque Converter, Radiator and coolant pipes. If the filter has already been replaced in your one, then it's a relatively simple job to disconnect the return cooler pipe ( some people prefer the "out" or HOT pipe) attach a pipe to the disconnected coolant pipe, and put the other end into a container ( container should be marked in 1 ltr sections) Start engine, and the trans oil will be pumped out through the tube and into the container. When it reaches the 2 ltr level, switch off the engine. Replace the 2 ltrs of drained fluid with 2 ltrs of new fluid. Repeat the process until only new fluid is emerging from the plastic pipe. Job done. And now, you know where you stand....so if you still have a problem...you can rule out the fluid as a cause.
 

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As others have said - the dye is only in there to make sure you use the right one, after a relativey short (almost immediate) time it will revert to a light translucent brown, when it’s past its best it’s going to be a darkish brown. Nothing wrong with yours that I can see....
So basically, yes I’d expect to see it that colour
 

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when you change the fluid about 2 litres is left inside, so some change due to mix and match is likely (thus doing twice is a good idea).

however these boxes on a scale of 1 to 10 (1 being broken and 10 being a BWM 8 speed autobox) are at best a 7 and some closer to 5. With a bit of wear / abuse and with a few changes in oil spec, if not actually broken before the fluid change often appear to be worse after the fluid is swapped out. If lucky the adaption software will most mask the disastrous build over the next few months and or you get used to it.
I hope you don't mind me asking but, why do you drive a Mercedes Benz and not just opt for you favourite BMW brand?
 

steveq

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If you go on Amazon or Ebay etc, and search for "MB 722.6 Transmission Fluid Change Kits" you will get a lot of results. Most show the new filter, dipstick lock pin and gasket +5 or 6 ltrs transmission fluid. Some just show the 5 or 6 ltrs of fluid. This is not enough fluid to do a complete flush and change....it will only replace what is in the sump....anything from 3-5 ltrs. In this case, less than half the fluid is replaced, so of course the colour will be changed too. If I remember right, I used 10-11 Ltrs to flush and change my one.If I were you, I would have it done again, with specific instructions that ALL the oil has to be replaced. Sump, Torque Converter, Radiator and coolant pipes. If the filter has already been replaced in your one, then it's a relatively simple job to disconnect the return cooler pipe ( some people prefer the "out" or HOT pipe) attach a pipe to the disconnected coolant pipe, and put the other end into a container ( container should be marked in 1 ltr sections) Start engine, and the trans oil will be pumped out through the tube and into the container. When it reaches the 2 ltr level, switch off the engine. Replace the 2 ltrs of drained fluid with 2 ltrs of new fluid. Repeat the process until only new fluid is emerging from the plastic pipe. Job done. And now, you know where you stand....so if you still have a problem...you can rule out the fluid as a cause.
The OP will have a 7G+ (722.9) gearbox.
It isn't easy to do that sort of operation as the ATF must be pumped in through the sump drain hole.
It would still be possible but definitely not as easy as it is with a 722.6 box.
As far as I know all 7G+ boxes have a torque convertor drain bolt.

The best way to change the ATF is to drain the sump; drop the sump; remove the filter; drain the TC; fit a new filter; replace the sump (new rubber gasket & sump bolts); pump in about 9 litres of new fluid (blue/green); start the engine and bring to ATF up to the correct temp; let the excess fluid out through the sump drain hole; replace the sump bolt.

I don't think main dealers drain the TC when they change the fluid so only change about 5 litres instead of 9 litres.
 

Botus

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Mine doesn't have the TC drain, my understanding was early ones had it later ones don't
 

Botus

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I hope you don't mind me asking but, why do you drive a Mercedes Benz and not just opt for you favourite BMW brand?

I wanted a powerful rear drive car with an autobox, lots of toys and adaptive cruise control. A 5 series BM with acc would have been a nice idea but its too rare and far too desirable to fit the price bracket I was going for. This left me little choice. I was apprehensive about a Merc as I always knew them to be rather coarse and unrefined but with a solid, reliable reputation.

Sadly the former is very much there and the later very much missing. Which has left me with a vehicle that costs lots to run is very disappointing and worth almost nothing. However as I do twice the miles on bikes its not a big issue and if I want to drive a great, fun car I have access to a focus. Even the focus' indicator relay makes a classy "posh" sound not a tacky rattle that's embarrassing and would be a shame to suffer on 25 year old Lada. Which highlights its all rubbish and more about the size of the marketing budget than actual substance !

Because I have no prejudice toward the brand, I can freely share how they really are in an unbiased impartial manner.

I certainly wouldn't say I'm a BM fan, I think they make far better cars than Merc but they're German and thus drop dead in less than half the time we should accept.

I come here to learn a bit about current issues affecting drivers and help others fix theirs
 
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