7G Transmission colour after 2k miles

Blobcat

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I wanted a powerful rear drive car with an autobox, lots of toys and adaptive cruise control. A 5 series BM with acc would have been a nice idea but its too rare and far too desirable to fit the price bracket I was going for. This left me little choice. I was apprehensive about a Merc as I always knew them to be rather coarse and unrefined but with a solid, reliable reputation.

Sadly the former is very much there and the later very much missing. Which has left me with a vehicle that costs lots to run is very disappointing and worth almost nothing. As I do twice the mile on bikes its not a big issue and if I want to drive a great, fun car I have access to a focus. Even the focus' indicator relay makes a classy "posh" sound not a tacky rattle that's embarrassing and would be a shame to suffer on 25 year old Lada. Which highlights its all rubbish and more about the size of the marketing budget than actual substance !

I certainly wouldn't say I'm a BM fan, I think they make far better cars than Merc but they German and thus drop dead in less than half the time we should accept.

I come here to learn a bit about current issues affecting drivers and help others fix theirs
I had a brand new 5 series BM with adaptive cruise for 2 years and a more bland and completely devoid of any interest car I've not had. It was perfectly capable, just boring and the seats were bleeding uncomfortable. It also took them 8 weeks to repair the self closing tailgate when that failed as they couldn't get the parts.
 

Jim2

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The OP will have a 7G+ (722.9) gearbox.
It isn't easy to do that sort of operation as the ATF must be pumped in through the sump drain hole.
It would still be possible but definitely not as easy as it is with a 722.6 box.
As far as I know all 7G+ boxes have a torque convertor drain bolt.

The best way to change the ATF is to drain the sump; drop the sump; remove the filter; drain the TC; fit a new filter; replace the sump (new rubber gasket & sump bolts); pump in about 9 litres of new fluid (blue/green); start the engine and bring to ATF up to the correct temp; let the excess fluid out through the sump drain hole; replace the sump bolt.

I don't think main dealers drain the TC when they change the fluid so only change about 5 litres instead of 9 litres.
Definitely seem's to be a lot of hassle changing the ATF in the 7G+ boxes all right...so after doing the draining, refit sump etc. then you have to pump the new oil in to the sump via a tube, which also marks the max level of the fluid...which means that you would have to fill the sump in the normal way, then start and run the engine fir a few mins ( not much, I guess? ) to fill the TC, then repeat the process as needed until enough fluid was in the system. Bit complicated it seems ( especially if there is no dipstick there? )
 

LostKiwi

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It isn't easy to do that sort of operation as the ATF must be pumped in through the sump drain hole.
No it doesn't. You can disconnect the return from the oil cooler and connect an oil feed to where it was disconnected on the gearbox.
 

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No it doesn't. You can disconnect the return from the oil cooler and connect an oil feed to where it was disconnected on the gearbox.
So the same as the 722.6 trans then? I just saw some posts where it's mentioned about pumping fluid back up into the sump, and there is a pipe there which determines the correct level, which is fine, but then it seems that in some of these boxes, they do not have the filler pipe like the 722.6 has? In this case, how is the TC filled??
 

LostKiwi

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So the same as the 722.6 trans then? I just saw some posts where it's mentioned about pumping fluid back up into the sump, and there is a pipe there which determines the correct level, which is fine, but then it seems that in some of these boxes, they do not have the filler pipe like the 722.6 has? In this case, how is the TC filled??
Like I said. You disconnect the return from the cooler.
Think of the system as an inner tube. You cut the tube then drain from one side of the cut and fill from the other.
When done reconnect the two ends and it's a closed loop again.
 

steveq

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I thought that related
Like I said. You disconnect the return from the cooler.
Think of the system as an inner tube. You cut the tube then drain from one side of the cut and fill from the other.
When done reconnect the two ends and it's a closed loop again.
I'm not sure how you can set the ATF level with this process?
Does the cooler not just drain back to the gearbox or the TC?
If you have the sump off and the TC drain plug out and leave it until it stops dripping you will get the vast majority of the fluid out.
I did it that way and got approx 9 litres out and put in a fresh 9 litres -- job done.
 

LostKiwi

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I thought that related

I'm not sure how you can set the ATF level with this process?
Does the cooler not just drain back to the gearbox or the TC?
If you have the sump off and the TC drain plug out and leave it until it stops dripping you will get the vast majority of the fluid out.
I did it that way and got approx 9 litres out and put in a fresh 9 litres -- job done.
You can't set the level, you have to do that at the end the normal way.
 

steveq

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So the same as the 722.6 trans then? I just saw some posts where it's mentioned about pumping fluid back up into the sump, and there is a pipe there which determines the correct level, which is fine, but then it seems that in some of these boxes, they do not have the filler pipe like the 722.6 has? In this case, how is the TC filled??
It is different to the 722.6.
There is a pipe in the sump over the drain bolt hole that is raised about 2 inches. Slightly excessive fluid is pumped in and the car is started to raise the gearbox oil temp to 45degC (from memory). Then any excess fluid is allowed out of the sump drain until it stops. Then the sump drain bolt is fitted.
It sounds more complex than it is in reality.
 

harrye500

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That's how I did mine Stevq. I think some bravery IS required + the parts and equipment to do it properly. Without doubt it's not an everyday job, but once you've done it then its going to be easier second time around (he says confidently)!! Noted LostKiwi too, I didn't do the cooler pipes but next time I will do! I find mine a generally refined car, I'm certain all manufacturers have the same issues and once the Procurement guys get involved after design, everything will have a fixed price and normally the lowest too and so a very finite life!! You'd like to think MB spend a bit more on critical parts and certainly the more common, shorter life stuff and high stressed components but I say this... Remember British Leyland :D?! All made to a cost. I like the 7G, it seems to have vastly differing opinions on reliability and quality but on my car, its a good fit and very smooth and even responsive when needed (and occasionally I like to boot it a bit)!
 

Jim2

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So basically for the 722.9 trans ( assuming that you were happy with the filter...unlikely I know )you could connect to the trans to cooler "OUT" pipe, and use it as a drain, and then connect a second pipe to the cooler "RETURN" pipe, using this pipe to replace the drained fluid? For the 722.6 trans, as there is already a filler pipe in place, only a connection either to or from the cooler is needed.
 

steveq

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In theory you are correct. If you measure what comes out and replace the same quantity, then you only need to disconnect the cooler in and out pipes.

However, that ignores replacing the ATF filter which is a key part of doing the gearbox service. Also, when I did mine there was a lot of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan which I cleaned out.

Both of those would significantly diminish the benefits of changing the ATF just using the cooler pipes method.
 

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