A-Class battery warning light steering problem - need help

bigtony

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I have a 2001 A170 cdi that appears to have an electrical problem. It started the others day. The battery warning light came on (not fully bright as you would expect) and the power steering was lost. The RAC man said it was probably the poly belt and could not be repaired at the roadside. Taken to a local garage that said the belt was ok. They tested the Alternator and battery and said they appear ok (they battery was not perfect but still working ok). When they started the car the light had gone and everything appeared to work. They did change the battery and poly belt just in case. Thought that was the end of it - all electrical systems worked. However, they took the car for a test drive and found that when the car warmed up the problem came back. Battery warning light on and no power steering. They thought it must be the alternator but when they put the tester on it it was ok and was charging the battery. They found that the battery was starting to smell and when they tested the voltage it was 17V - high!. The situation now is when the car is cold. the normal battery voltage is 12.4V and the alternator charge voltage is constant at 14V (sounds normal) but when the car (and alternator) warm up the charge voltage goes up to 17Volts cooking the battery. They assume the problem must be with the alternator. They got what they thought was the replacement alternator (90amp veleo) but when they tried to fit it found that mine was equipped with a 150Amp water-cooled alternator!

Managed to get a Lucas water cooled replacement part from Euro Car Parts for £185. Took about 5 hours to fit! Tested the new unit and all appeared ok until we went for a test drive. The same problem came back - lost of power steering, battery light flickering on the dash.

Just sat with the car on the drive testing a few things out:
-Normal battery voltage 12.4V.
-engine starts firt time
-Alternator cuts in and charge voltage is 14.4V
-turn on headlights, heated windscreen, rear heater, fog lights and the charge voltage drops to about 13.95V
-move steering wheel too and fro - no effect on charge voltage.
-did this for 20 minutes voltage constant +/-0.3V
put foot on brake and put car in reverse then released brake. Car moved back and the battery light came on together with the loss of power steering even though the charge voltage was 14V (and did not even flicker)
-put car in forward - the same
-leave in park then the light goes out and the power steering returns (no change in charge voltage 14V).
-I then reved the engine to around 4K and the battery light came on and power steering off. yet again the voltage was constant at 14V. The light remained on flickering as the revs dropped.

This suggests the alternator is working ok
why does the steering pump cut out when the light is on?

I have also spoken to a Merc engineer who said that it could be either the speed sensor or angle sensor linked to the power steering. He thought that the speed sensor probably gets the signal from the alternator (could this be the blue wire?) He also suggested checking the engine tick-over that this reset properly when the battery was disconnected (sometimes this needs to be recalibrated). He said if the tick over was slightly on the low side then as the engine warmed up the revs would drop slightly causing the issue and when the gears are selected this will lower the engine revs and may trigger the fault. Sounds possible to me. Think I need to get the system reset by the ECU and see what happens.

What do you think?

Any ideas?
:confused:
 

television

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Well you have done some checking. this is for charge idicator lamp flickers and power steering pump fails

your fault is caused by low temperature and normally only happens at below 0c

Anyway when re set terminal 61 momenteraly goes to O volt which in turn lead to the power steering pump switching off.

The remedy is to change the alternator, but it must have the following statuses (stickers) Gasoline K2 Diesel engines Q4.

Alternators with status K1/Q3 do not help
 

kth286

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bigtony

It is only by visiting a main Merc dealer and giving them your VIN will you be guaranteed to get the correct alternator for your particular car.

If your garage has supplied the wrong one then get a refund because they have been incompetent.
 
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bigtony

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The original merc part on my car was a Valeo part 2548702 - Merc Part A668-154-01-02. The direct replacement we fitted was a Lucas LRA02171. I have checked on the Lucas website and the Lucas part is a refurbished Valeo 2548702 (still had the original valeo casting numbers on the case) so in theory a like for like part.The test certificate that came with the alternator was ok
 

television

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Well the answer is as I put up, it must have those numbers on the labels, if not it will not work
 

mattkh

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Hi
Is there a voltage stabilisation relay on the A class like the other bigger Mercs??
 
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bigtony

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I am told that the voltage regulation is built into the alternator on the A-class - no external regulation
 

mattkh

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Hi
If the car is not at the garage, look under the bonnet and locate big plastic bottle containing steering fluid. At the bottom there is the electrical connector. I wonder if it is an idea to unplug the connector, spray switch cleaner to the contacts and push the plug back in.
 

television

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Strange I have put up the exact cure yet people a still serching for ideas.

In electronics you have to use the correct prefix and that is the only problem here

Get an alternator with a Q4 label for the diesel, and the problems over, no other label will work
 
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bigtony

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There is no label on the alternator just the part number as described above.

What I do have if it helps is 3 wires connected to the alternator 1) main power cable to battery 2) small wire from loom to a plug on alternator labeled DF and 3) a small wire from loom to a plug on the alternator labeled L. We are not sure what the colour codes are for these (cannot see without removing the alternator again - 5h). Anyone know if one of these goes to the power steering? If so could this be causing the problem? I was told one of these wires could be coloured blue (not sure).
 

television

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The problem is that the alternator will not work if it does not have the correct label attached. there are lots of variants, they will not work, I looked your problem up and coppied word for word. I said all this in my first post
 
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bigtony

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Hi there,

If it helps here is the info from the Lucas website:

Part No: LRA02171
Make: MERCEDES
Model: A170 1.7 Diesel Turbo CDI 168
Observations: 150A M8 B+
Year: 01-04


LRA02171, 12 Volt, Int. Regulator
-EXCHANGE ALTERNATOR 150A MERCEDES

Cross no.
2542524A - my original Valeo part No
2542771
2542771B
A6681540102 - my original merc part No
A6681540202
SG15L012
SG15L026

No mention of Q4?

What do you think? - the part numbers seem to match up.
 

television

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These labels were stuck on in adition to the part numbers and MB WIS says that those without this sticker will not work

I think that you will have to ask MB about this and the Q4 label, I cant see any other way of solving it.
 
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bigtony

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Malcolm,

I have just checked the label on the original merc factory fitted alternator (when new) and found the following label markings:

Q3 14V 150A
SG15L012
2542524A 63469H
A6681540102
VALEO 43/01


No Q4 mark!

Does this help?

Thanks for you help in this

Regards

Tony
 

kabukidrive

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Hi Tony,##


were u able to sort this out? I have thesame problem




Cheers

K?
 
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RayR

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Hi Guys,

did either of you get your alternator problem resoloved?

I'm thinking of buying an A Class that has this fault but is supposedly going to be fixed. I'm a bit concerned that it's so tricky to make sure the replacement is the correct one to fix it.

Looking for a "Q4" label sounds a bit hit-and-miss.

Thanks,

Ray
 

area51

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Have you checked the condition of the power steering/alternator junction box? They do corrode quite nicely and cause problems.

(Small black box located under the washer bottle, on top of the chassis rail)
 
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