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A plethora of fault codes on my CLK. Help!

Discussion in 'Engine, Drivetrain, Fuel and Exhaust' started by Richard E, Jun 14, 2019.

  1. Richard E

    Richard E Active Member

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    Hi all!
    On my way home last night my CLK (320 CDi V6) lost power, wouldn't rev over 2.5k rpm but otherwise ran fine. I was chasing a plastic Peugeot people carrier thing so it was embarrasing that I had to back off.. I just run a scan and I have codes: P1101, P1402, P2078, P2646.

    So it seems MAF sensor or DPF sensor or EGR. I had cleaned the EGR valve a couple of months ago and it seems fine and just checked it and it seems to move freely. Also checked the swirl flap plug under the turbo intake - it was oily but cleaning it didn't fix any issues (I saw on Youtube that limp home mode can be initiated if there are problems with the flaps).

    The engine is too hot now to do anything so I'll start tomorrow but any suggestions will be most appreciated..!
     
  2. Uncle Benz

    Uncle Benz Senior Member

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    Check your fuses. All of those items share a common supply, and if one of them has a problem it will blow the fuse and report faults with all. The intake port shut off motor is the most common, egr valve the second.
     
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  3. OP
    Richard E

    Richard E Active Member

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    Wow! Never would of thought of it being a fuse. I'm going to have a cup of tea, try to wake up then go take a look. Thanks Uncle Benz I'll report back.
     
  4. Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    It's fuse F44 (15amp) in the engine bay fuse box that's worth checking first . Far left as you face the car , by the brake fluid reservoir (at least it is on my om642 e class)
     
  5. OP
    Richard E

    Richard E Active Member

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    Thanks!! I was just sitting here drinking tea thinking - I wonder where the fuse boxes are? Thanks again!
     
  6. Uncle Benz

    Uncle Benz Senior Member

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    If you do find a blown fuse you might find it blows again in short order. This is a good thing - you can then start unplugging the suspects one at a time until the culprit is found. You might need a handful of spare fuses though. You have fuses in the end of the dash, drivers side and under the bonnet in the box next to the brake fluid reservoir
     
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  7. OP
    Richard E

    Richard E Active Member

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    OK, will do! I have a lot of spare fuses so I'll get started on it. Thanks!
     
  8. Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    Fingers crossed buddy :D
     
  9. OP
    Richard E

    Richard E Active Member

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    Can't find any blown fuses..
     
  10. OP
    Richard E

    Richard E Active Member

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    Checked all fuses, none are gone. Had a good look around can't see anything obvious but these are the fault codes I'm getting and it drives the same - 2.5k rpm max and rough gear changes.
     

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  11. Oldspanners

    Oldspanners Senior Member

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    P1402 Exhaust gas recirculation open-loop control
    P1101 ? Not shown in MB list possibly MAF.
    P2078 Read fault memory from control unit N15/6 (Sprintshift control module) and rectify faults.
    I'm no expert but looks like something on the inlet side around where you were looking EGR, flaps or MAF.
    Sorry can't add anything definitive.
     
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  12. Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    Can't really add anything other than is that an MB specific code reader (like icarsoft ) ? MB Star diagnostic may be able to pin the fault down more accurately .
    If it were me and had time and without any experts chiming in to point me in a direction , you could
    1) take the exhaust back pressure sensor off and spray clean the small hole inside it that can block up (it's between the turbo shield and the egr valve) , 24mm deep socket to remove it .
    2) take the turbo actuator off and check the 4 thin outer wires on the board inside haven't got a small break in them . There is stuff in YouTube for this . Maybe an hours work . I cleaned the black carbon stuff out with electrical cleaner and put a TINY amount of high temp grease on the worm gear .
    3) change fuse F44 anyway .
    4) try a 4.7k ohm resistor in the middle of the 4 terminals of the wiring to the inlet port shutoff motor (30p part cost ?) if it works it may indicate a swirl flap/motor issue .
    You may be wasting your time but they are all nearly free and known issues with the om642 engine
     
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  13. Steve@Avantgarde

    Steve@Avantgarde Forum Supporter Authorised Forum Supporter

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    Just get it on STAR where you will get an accurate fault code list and diagnosis. 45 mins on STAR would tell you which way is up.
     
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  14. OP
    Richard E

    Richard E Active Member

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    Hi guys, thanks for all this! I really appreciate it. I'll do all those things as I'm a little OCD with stuff anyway and I like to see what's there and how it works.

    I keep coming up with the DPF sensor as being a culprit so I might change that anyway and put a resistor in the swirl flap plug. I'll try to video it all so it might be usefull for others - though I'm not a mechanic. I'll keep you updated on progress.

    It's a little frustrating as I just finally got the front suspension sorted. Since I bought it it's been knocking really badly so I changed the arms, track rod ends, anti-roll bar bushes etc and they were all totally blown, really bad, but there was still a bad knocking. I nearly threw in the towel and thought about taking it to a local mechanic but I lifted the car one more time to have a poke around and found the steering rack was loose! I could lift it up and down off the cross member. Horror! It was the bushes. It looked a nightmare to do but I manned up and started taking bolts out and got the old bushes off. A day later I had the parts in my hand, €50 gone out of my pocket and within 1 hour it was back on the road and driving like a dream. Then a couple of days later it went into limp mode..

    I'll attach a photo of the steering rack bushes. Only one was kind of ok.
     

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  15. Uncle Benz

    Uncle Benz Senior Member

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    As the others have said, the fault code you have left is slightly ambiguous. It was a shame you didn't have the blown fuse as it makes further diagnosis a doddle. I would be inclined to try the resistor mod to the swirl motor first as others have said. It's a very cheap diy that might sort it out. Otherwise a Star diagnosis is the next port of call to really make sense of your fault code.
     
  16. Uncle Benz

    Uncle Benz Senior Member

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    Your rack bushes look like oil contamination might have got the better of them. Was it oily down there?
     
  17. OP
    Richard E

    Richard E Active Member

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    Thanks! I'll do that, like you say it's an easy thing so it has to be worth trying first.
     
  18. OP
    Richard E

    Richard E Active Member

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    I thought the same but it was completley dry. I can only guess there may have been a problem in the past. The oil sump has been re-sealed so maybe it had been leaking. Thanks!!

    It's worth knowing they are easy and cheap to change. 12 bolts on an under plate but straight forward.
     
  19. OP
    Richard E

    Richard E Active Member

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    meh
    Hi Wighty & others that kindly offered suggestions - this is the latest:

    1) take the exhaust back pressure sensor & clean..
    Did that and it was very sooty. Took off the EGR valve while I was there and cleaned it.

    2) take the turbo actuator off and check..
    Took it off and all was fine. Little bit of play in the gear but it was very little. Oh those wires are really flimsy.. no wonder they break.


    3) change fuse F44 anyway..
    On my car F44 is for something to do with GPS. I've checked every fuse and all seems fine.

    4) try a 4.7k ohm resistor in the middle of the 4 terminals..
    I can't find a 4.7k resistor so will try to buy one tomorrow.

    Just took for a short drive and it's still in limp home mode and I get:
    P1101 MAF sensor out of range
    P1402 EGR valve position sensor fault
    (P2078 seems to have gone)

    I'm going to call into a local mechanic tomorrow and see if he has better test equipment. I'm using an App and an ordinary OBDII scanner.

    I'm going to get a DPF sensor as well as this one looks like it won't hurt to replace it so even if it's not that I'll avoid an issue in the future.

    Any comments or encouragement welcome!
     
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  20. M80

    M80 Senior Member

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    Don't discount poor connection at sensor/s.
    I was led on a goose chase with 3 of these. MAF, EGR, and turbo actuator.
     

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