A200 (W169) Noisy Belt/Pulley/Tensioner?

[BobbyCF]

Hi,

I am new year just signed up with hope of finding diagrams and/or instructions on how to replace replaceable pulleys and drive belt on my wife’s A200 that has been very noise for the past week.

I am very handy and been doing all my mechanical works myself but have no experience with European cars especially Mercedes A-Class which has literally no room under the hood to perform mechanical work.

I partially took the driver side mud guard inner plastic cover off but there was no access to the drive belt area.

Took the plastic cover off under the bonnet with a very narrow area to work with although oy lifted the car so much to be able to slide underneath but can lift much higher.

I am in need of knowing how to get through to it, what parts do I need changing to make sure its well serviced?

I have seen a few different parts on eBay some just the couple of pulleys by themselves with the belt, some with several pulleys attached to a big alloy bracket.

Really appreciate if I could get some hints or diagrams of the sane exact model or tips on the best way to get to it.

Thank you
Bobby

 

[rifiki]

If the A200 uses similar pulleys to the CLK do not use cheap replacements, only OEM or well known brands.
I had one let go and caused all sorts of problems, you will be surprised how small the bearings are.

 

[rifiki]

Forgot, have you checked YouTube?

 

[BobbyCF]

Thanks. I did a search on youtube but nothing specific on A200 W169 at all.

Even google was no help.

Gonna look for a service manual but wanted to see if anyone has the same exact model and got the belt and tensioner changed himself so i could use the experience.

Unfortunately this is not a common car for self-mechanic enthusiast to own and do self mechanical repairs. Most people get it done at a proper garage at a high cost.

Forgot, have you checked YouTube?

 

[ZZZZ]

Have a look at Forrerra's page here: https://www.facebook.com/aclassForrera/
and check Albert Rowe's page here: http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/page.1.169.htm

As to searches - not likely to be anything specific for A200 W169 - just search for W169 and W245 (same engines, etc, just different body panels).

You didn't mention whether the car is automatic (CVT) or manual, and what year it was built, but hopefully these will be of some use.

 

[BobbyCF]

Thanks heaps. My apologies its automatic.

2005 A200 (W169) Auto Petrol

I thought different engine capacities might have been slightly different but suppose the block and engine drive mechanism would be the same?

Goo, didn’t know that W245 has the sane engine.

Will checkout the links once I get home.

Appreciate your speedy response.

Have a look at Forrerra's page here: https://www.facebook.com/aclassForrera/
and check Albert Rowe's page here: http://www.aclassinfo.co.uk/page.1.169.htm

As to searches - not likely to be anything specific for A200 W169 - just search for W169 and W245 (same engines, etc, just different body panels).

You didn't mention whether the car is automatic (CVT) or manual, and what year it was built, but hopefully these will be of some use.

 

[ZZZZ]

No worries

Not sure if different engines would have different [that bit that you're going to replace, of which I have a fairly vague, if at all, idea] ... I'd imagine 266.980 would, as it's a turbo.

Pretty sure I've seen Forrera's video on the subject though.

Here's a spec sheet for the A200 of that year. Engine - 266.960; CVT - 722.8

Yes W245 is very similar, in fact most if not all part numbers (even those unique to W245), start with 169.

 

[W245207]

Hi,

I am new year just signed up with hope of finding diagrams and/or instructions on how to replace replaceable pulleys and drive belt on my wife’s A200 that has been very noise for the past week.

I am very handy and been doing all my mechanical works myself but have no experience with European cars especially Mercedes A-Class which has literally no room under the hood to perform mechanical work.

I partially took the driver side mud guard inner plastic cover off but there was no access to the drive belt area.

Took the plastic cover off under the bonnet with a very narrow area to work with although oy lifted the car so much to be able to slide underneath but can lift much higher.

I am in need of knowing how to get through to it, what parts do I need changing to make sure its well serviced?

I have seen a few different parts on eBay some just the couple of pulleys by themselves with the belt, some with several pulleys attached to a big alloy bracket.

Really appreciate if I could get some hints or diagrams of the sane exact model or tips on the best way to get to it.

Thank you
Bobby

You're in luck, got this done on Thursday. You have to drop the engine down. My car is diesel and I bought the part (INA) from GSF with their 60% discount.

We didn't disconnect or remove anything from the engine bay.
We removed all the subframe bolts, front and rear.
We removed the two rear engine mount bolts. (The wheel cover protudes towards the jack pads)
We lowered the engine from the rear using two support stands which allowed enough access to remove the front top three bolts of the tensioner assembly block.
The ac compressor does not require disconnecting and the alternator can be hung by zip tie.
The new tensioner is pre-tensioned with a pin and removed after installing the belt.

It should take about an hour and half tops. Feeding the new belt is a bit tricky. Remember to disconnect the battery.

I was worried about the steering column, but the mechanic has done these before on A class.

 

[BobbyCF]

You're in luck, got this done on Thursday. You have to drop the engine down. My car is diesel and I bought the part (INA) from GSF with their 60% discount.

We didn't disconnect or remove anything from the engine bay.
We removed all the subframe bolts, front and rear.
We removed the two rear engine mount bolts. (The wheel cover protudes towards the jack pads)
We lowered the engine from the rear using two support stands which allowed enough access to remove the front top three bolts of the tensioner assembly block.
The ac compressor does not require disconnecting and the alternator can be hung by zip tie.
The new tensioner is pre-tensioned with a pin and removed after installing the belt.

It should take about an hour and half tops. Feeding the new belt is a bit tricky. Remember to disconnect the battery.

I was worried about the steering column, but the mechanic has done these before on A class.

Great! But not so great. If I need a engine crane to hold the engine and slowly dropping it, i dont have one.

So there is no way around it by the sound of it. I guess i gotta get a quota from mercedes benz.

We do need to take the car in for an airbag recall so might ring and find out how much they charge to do it with parts supplied just to get an idea. If charging alot then might be worth it buying a crane and doing it myself over a weekend.

But great because youve done it and shared with me your tips so i know what im up for now.

Gonna order the parts from an auto part shop as mercedes benz suck my pocket dry probably. Wish it was much simpler than that.

Npw is there a kit for parts? Like how many parts do i need changing?

Just the tensioner and belt? Or other pulleys around it that might get worn?

Also are these model cars chain or rubber timing belt? Thats another think i should perhaps keep in mind!

Well thank you so much guys. My homework now is first to obtain the parts then taking action.

If the engine mounts are accessible then shouldnt be that hard just time consuming.

A high lift up jack like mechanics would have been good in my carport. Pitty i dont have a nice tall drive in shed or garage and some extra cash to buy one of those )

 

[V6Matty]

An Indy is half the labour cost of the dealer and often get things done quicker as well, where are you located and maybe some of use can recommend a good one near you.

 

[BobbyCF]

An Indy is half the labour cost of the dealer and often get things done quicker as well, where are you located and maybe some of use can recommend a good one near you.

I,ve had past experience with Midas and UltraTune and wont go near them especially taking a Merc there.

They have no knowledge or manufacture’s resources and equipment to properly service or repair.

The downside of the manufacturer’s service and repair is its astronomical cost.

Ive never trusted a mechanic garage out there and every single time i have witnessed dodgy work.

Anyway just as I was worrying my wife’s merc my hiace died in the middle of courier work so being extremely low paid and no insurance affordability im officially unemployed and got that to worry about.

I am in Adelaide and someone told me a mech in south road near castle plaza is very reliable. They recalled the name “auto rise” but havent heard of them so maybe they meant “automasters”.

While im looking for a job tomorrow morning, just to get an idea, im gonna cal mercedes benz mile end or edwardstown and see how much they quote.

Please, if you know a relatively cheap but high quality and reliable mech around southern suburbs please let me know. Very much appreciate it.

If this didnt happen i was planning to hire an engine crane or buy if cheap to go about it myself over a weekend.

If i get expensive prices then i guess now i got time to do it myself.

Im still trying to look for a repair man to show me exactly where eng mounts are so i get to it without wasting time.

Private solo garages would most likely be expensive or dodgy quality.

 

[W245207]

WIS was good source, but it's been offline for a few months. This is a good site I use for parts and schematics, just insert your VIN number:

https://www.ilcats.ru/mercedes/?language=en

This is how Merc does it (should) in dropping the engine:

Petrol tensioner setup is probably similiar to diesel, check with above electronic parts catalogue. The torx bolts are not that long, all torqued to 20NM.

It's shame they don't have a 'cutout' in the wheel arch, you could replace the indivdual pulleys.

 

[BobbyCF]

Good videos. Thanks.

Ok i went to a MB garage to have the recalled airbag changed for free and got a quote to have all pulleys and the belt changed and they said $12xx.xx which was no surprise.

They said the a/c and bumper also needs to come off so taking around 3.5hrs.

I then asked them for good aftermarket parts and the lady there was nice she made a few phone calls and now organising a cheaper price for me. Still waiting to receive the quote by email.

At the moment im fixing my van that broken on me made me unemployed for the past 3 days hoping my head gasket isnt gone.

If they give me a quote around the $700 mark changing all pulleys and belt with aftermarket then i guess ill go get it done there as i dont have the time and a garage at home just a carport with minor tools no crane and only one alligator hydraulic lifter and its all windy, cloudy and rainy at the moment.