ABC parts- where to buy and how much

[Craiglxviii]

Hello Mods, please can someone move this post to the relevant forum.

This weekend I have sourced some ABC parts required for the CL W215 model.

ABC pump: P/no A0034662401 from exclusiv-mobile.de eBay shop. €449.50 plus postage. Reconditioned unit with 24 months warranty.

ABC filter 3muL P/no A0031846101 from exclusiv-mobile.de eBay shop. €39.50 plus postage. Brand new.

Pentosin CHF-11S: available from pentosin-shop.de (the Pentosin refinery) for €14.50/ litre plus postage.

ABC strut- all 4 corners available from www.arnotteurope.com, reconditioned units only for €799/ea plus €200 core deposit.

So an ABC pump replacement and fluid flush should set one back around £600 plus carriage from Germany, for parts.

Hope that this helps some people.

 

[Lexman8]

It's cheaper to buy the 3 micron filter in the UK. I paid £26.04 for it from my local MB dealership.

 

[Craiglxviii]

Ah OK, I wasn't able to find UK pricing for that part number. Thanks for letting me know.

 

[Craiglxviii]

I'm going to be buying the parts shortly, can someone please confirm if the pump part no I have is correct for W215 CL500 2000-reg?

 

[SL63 Mark]

That's a pretty good price for the pump Craig, a lot better than £1200 from MB. Hope it all goes well, let us know how you get on, I assume there was a problem with the pump ?

 

[Craiglxviii]

It's noisy. When I took the car to a local indy I was told that I had a noisy supercharger... I mentioned the car is a 500 not a 55K ( ) and he rummaged round, dug out a big dirty old screwdriver and diagnosed, fairly quickly, the ABC pump as being noisy. So since then (just before Xmas) the car has been parked up, turned over every week until working temperature reached, to save the pump.

Just booking the job in now, I will be getting Steve Winn Autocare in Warwick to do the job. He does not have STAR though (Bosch diagnostic kit as not Merc indy, but VAG)- will this pose any problems? I know he cannot do the rodeo so I assume that a fluid flush using the up/down button, then some spitited driving for 1k miles followed by another flush would be sufficient.

 

[Lexman8]

A rodeo isn't essential for a pump or fluid change.

I changed my own fluid last year, no rodeo, just raised and lowered the car as I did it. No problems since.

 

[Lexman8]

In fact, there's a school of thought that says doing a rodeo on an old car might not be a good idea as it stresses components beyond their normal day-to-day parameters and can create other problems as a result.
_

 

[Craiglxviii]

Thanks Lexman.

Can you confirm if the part no I posted for the pump is correct? I want to make sure before putting my hard earned cash down!

 

[drmw]

I have no idea of prices, but MB now supply "remanufactured" parts.

 

[Lexman8]

Can you confirm if the part no I posted for the pump is correct? I want to make sure before putting my hard earned cash down!

I've looked at the invoice for when I had mine my pump replaced by an MB unit. Unfortunately it doesn't state the part number so I can't be certain.

I think there are variations of the pump so you're right to double check. Sorry I can't help.

 

[Philedge]

A rodeo isn't essential for a pump or fluid change.

I changed my own fluid last year, no rodeo, just raised and lowered the car as I did it. No problems since.

For a maintenance fluid change a rodeo may not be essential as dilution of the old fluid, but not maximising removal of the old stuff, can only help.

If you've had a failure or something has worn out, the pump in this case, then personally I'd want as much of the old contaminated fluid out as possible. The later 3 micron filter will get most of the contamination out but as near a full fluid change as possible would be my choice so I know the fluid is as clean as possible.

 

[Craiglxviii]

I shall be doing another full fluid change in around 1k miles after the pump swap and fluid flush anyway, so fingers crossed this should sort it all out.

 

[m2287]

Do you have to send the old pump back?

 

[Philedge]

I shall be doing another full fluid change in around 1k miles after the pump swap and fluid flush anyway, so fingers crossed this should sort it all out.

Without a rodeo flush or manually emptying the struts, you'll leave a fair bit of contaminated fluid in each strut just using the buttons. This will work its way back into the system as the car is used. A second flush after 1k miles will help dilute this but there will still be alot more contamination than with a rodeo flush or manually emptying each strut.

Maybe OTT but I'd want as much grot out of the system as possible. Concious that the pump has failed in what was orignally pristine fluid, last thing I'd want was to have any avoidable contamination in the system.

 

[Craiglxviii]

This is true. However the pump has lasted 121k miles and 15 years so not too bad altogether

 

[Stocker]

On the flushing front, I saw one of these :

http://www.agatools.com/tool/mercedes-abc-flush/tool


When I'm bored at work one day I may have a go at making one "how hard can it be"

 

[Craiglxviii]

Just need to know the right unions surely? It seems to take the place of the filter so must locate on the return fluid inlet to the tank. Looking further at some of the pictures though, I see that all I need is the hose, bucket and unions as very handily described by Alex Foti on his how-to guide. My car has the type of tank shown on the right in the final picture.

 

[Stocker]

When I measured my old filter (base) it was approx 31 mm there is a Mercedes breakers near me so I may be able to get a old reservoir and get a exact measurement, all it is then is machine to accept an O ring and some 12 mm pneumatic pipe and a weight to keep the pipe in the bucket.

 

[Craiglxviii]

Which reservoir do you have- the one on the left or the right? To me it looks like this tool isn't suitable for my receptacle, ooer missus!