ADS fault diagnosis, DIY or specialist? R129

wub

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Hi all
I've recently bought a SL500 1998 from a deceased estate, winter renovation project. The car was sold as seen, with a price to reflect that, but the owners had decided to get the car MOT’d at local garage, for peace of mind that they were not selling anything dangerous. So the car drives, has an MOT, but has had very little use the last 10 years.

I trailered it back to my workshop, for inspection and have found 2 things that don’t appear to be working. The roof, which I’ll come to on another post. And the ADS. I have never owned a merc with ADS, so don’t have any experience of it or how to fix it. I am handy in the work shop, renovated many cars over the years, but not sure I can diagnose and fix the ADS with out diagnostic equipment?

The dash light stays on after starting. The reservoir was virtually empty, but the local garage that MOT’d mentioned that they noticed the light sometimes came on and some times didn’t, and after they lowered the car off the ramp, where all wheels had had the pressure taken off them, the reservoir had over flowed? Looking into it, they should have locked the units by the switch, before jacking, which I know they didn’t.

I have inspected the system and cant see any signs of leaks, its dry all around. I have topped the reservoir back up. But the dash light is on, and nothing seems to happen when I press the buttons. Should I hear the pump working? Do i need to bleed the system?

Is this something I can fault diagnose myself and is there a procedure for this? Or, should I go to local merc specialist? Also I read in a few places, that the spheres have a life span, 10 years has been mentioned. I suspect the ones on there are the originals, so 25 years old plus and 120k. is it a good time to just replace the 4 spheres now anyway, at 70 ish each, that does'nt seem to too bad for the parts

If I can do this myself, the plan is, to first get it working with the original spheres in place, so as not to disturb too much, to see where i am, and once that's done, then replace the 4 spheres. My gut feeling is, the incorrect jacking without locking the ADS, by the local garage, may have caused the issue, but I’m in the dark, I need a checking / bleeding procedure, somewhere to start. Any threads out there anyone can remember?

On another note, i was a bit hesitant on this purchase, as the year 10/1998 was i thought, falling into the "rust years", of production, but on inspection, i am amazed at how little, , rust there is, virtually zero! And how do i find out weather is the 119 engine or the later one?
 
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wub

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After some playing around yesterday, once the reservoir was topped up, i got the car to move up and down, which is a good start, means the system is at least working, or at least the pump is. Still have the light on the dash though, so i'm going to look at the solenoids this evening, seems you can get wire corrosion here as its right down in the wheel arch.

And i have the later engine 306HP, so thanks for that.

My next hunt is for some genuine front brake lines (not the hoses) as mine are corroded and i really dont want to replace with copper and a joiner. But i cant find anything online, so looks like it will have to be Merc main dealer?

On trying to remove the hard top, which has probably been in place for 10 years or more, oil started dripping from left sun visor and roof dident "unclick". i had to do it manually in the end. Having removed the hardtop, i noticed the button seamed to be stuck, so i removed that and it had a sticky sweet that had been there for years stopping the switch from going backwards all the way! Once cleaned up, the switch worked and the hood started to move, windows up and down etc, but i think its confused as its not all working or in the correct order. But i cant fully run the cycle until i get the top latch repaired. Thats on the list for tonight, to remove it and send it of to Spiders for repair.

Its obvious that the soft top will need replacement as well, unfortunately, again i think its probably the original and very worn and windows cracked etc. Any recommendations of a good hood supplier?
 

mioba

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get aquainted with the SLshop

parts, MB original all the way
 

LostKiwi

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Roof locking cylinders are an easy DIY. Remove the cylinder, remove the circlip on the open end and withdraw the piston. The o ring needs to be replaced. Be very careful not to scratch the piston or nick the new seal when refitting.
As long as the cylinder itself is in good condition it's as simple as that.

ADS is the precursor to ABC. The pump is a tandem pump on the power steering. It's significantly simpler than ABC but less informative.
I think yours will be ADS2 at that age.
You really will need Star to be able to diagnose it.
 
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wub

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Hi Lostkiwi, where do you get the o rings from?
 
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wub

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Its ok found some online. Thanks, thats saved me a few quid!
 

LostKiwi

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Ideally you need Viton ones as they are more resistant to oils etc.

Readily available from lots of online retailers, Amazon, engineering shops etc.
 
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wub

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any tips on getting the cir clip type securing ring out? i've chased it around with a very sharp pointed ground down screwdriver, but cant seem to get behind it to pop it out?
 
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wub

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got it out now, with very sharp flat screwdriver and another pointed one. There is a knack to it.

Ordered some spheres for the ADS and decided to replace some of the pipes whilst i'm at it, as they look quite corroded. Just praying the nuts are not completely corrode welded up.
 

mioba

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seal pick set, essential item for the tool box

High stregth magnetic pick up tool is useful to reduce risk of circlips flying into the abyss
 

LostKiwi

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seal pick set, essential item for the tool box

High stregth magnetic pick up tool is useful to reduce risk of circlips flying into the abyss
Or use a rag to retain the clip as it makes a bid for freedom.
 

Craiglxviii

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Or use a rag to retain the clip as it makes a bid for freedom.
Every old MB engine bay must have, by law I believe, at least three dropped sockets, a headlamp cleaner nozzle, two sidelight bulbs and at least nine assorted loose nuts & bolts.
 
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wub

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I decided to do the other side whilst at it and yep i ignored the advice about spring clip, thinking my hand in the way would catch it. But no, it disappeared into the air, hit the ceiling, bounced onto a shelf, off some tools and miraculously, landed by my feet. As i stood there listening to it ping around, i though, "I'll never find that again"!
 
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wub

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So ended up stripping the whole lot out, as i discovered very corroded pipes and impossibly tight connections to the sphere. now i can see very corroded pipes that go from the rear sphere, under the rear subframe, so thats got to come out as well:eek: So thought , might as well replace all the rear suspenion arms and bushs as they all look ancient as well. In for a penny and all that.
 


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