Advice on buying a W124 estate

starlitegaize

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W213 E class 250 estate
I'm finally growing up and would really appreciate any advice on buying an estate car. I'm looking at the 91-95 period (is that right for the "indestructible W124 models?).
A couple of really naive questions, I know, but firstly, what sort of mpg would I get from the slightly later engine models like the 220, as opposed to, say, the 230TE?
What should I look out for when buying? I've heard of dropped suspension, but I would have thought this would be really obvious (I don't know).
And is it true that some of the later models were made in South Africa?
I'm sure there will be many more question over the next couple of days I hope none of you senior members mind?
thanks in advance.
 

Blobcat

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Hi & Welcome,

Pls have a search around in the mean time as there have been a lot of members asking similar questions.
 

telletubby

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of the 124 estates, I have owned a '91 300 turbo diesel, a 1994 petrol 4-matic and a (currently) 1995 300 diesel. There is no doubt that with leather and all the trimmings the 4-matic was a wonderful car, but after six months it had to go as the fuel consumption was horrendous and, now that these cars are starting to show serious mileages, if the 4-matic gives trouble, there's no place to go.
With a mileage of approaching 250,000 my current non turbo E300 is a wonderful car and has given me no trouble whatsoever. It is a great cruiser, though not a flash accelerator, silent, economical and comfortable. Not easy to find, particularly with low mileage and extras - but my favourite to date and more reliable than the turbo model. But then I do live in France where diesel has a considerable price advantage.
 

Ednamillion

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starlitegaize,

As a very recent (3 weeks) newcomer to the world of W124 estate ownership I can only reinforce your thoughts regarding purchasing one of these wonderful machines.

Mine is a '94 E300 Diesel - I went for the diesel for the somewhat better overall mpg over and above many (any?) of the petrol models. On the way home after purchasing the car (mainly motorways, some A roads, little town driving) I got a little over 36mpg. I suspect I would have got 1 or 2 more than this but for two soft front tyres! Currently, day-in/day-out driving I'm getting about 33mpg.

From research I did previously I'd suggest properly ruuning 220's and 230's would return similar mpg figures - for any given driving conditions.

W124 - spacious, comfy, properly built. Lots of feel-good factor associated with it. Check out Nick Froomes' w124.co.uk site - he might be able to source a nice 220 for you!

Regards,

Edna'...
 

Hanz

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Hi there,

Just thought I'd give my input as a current W124 owner, I've got the E280, slightly later than the TE with the facelift.

Beautiful to drive, very smooth, and you've got the power there when you need it. I'm probably getting about 20mpg with mine roughly, depending on how light I am on the pedal!

The problem are I am aware of that are common with my model is the wiring loom can burn out, and then damage ECU, and head gasket may need to be done too around 180,000!

Anyway, I've had a years happy motoring out of mine!
 

stumpy

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I had a car the same as Hannahs above, and loved it to bits. I sold it because it developed a damp problem in the boot which I couldn't be arsed to try and fix. Mechanically it felt bulletproof. I miss it so may have to pop down to see Nick and buy another.
 

Hibbo

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I'd deffo recommend the E300 multivalve diesel, but these do carry a price premium. The E220 is probably the best all round petrol version (as long as you're not towing) and is a much more modern engine than the 230TE.

Nick's site is excellent too www.124.co.uk
 

Marco Polo

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S213 E220d SE 4Matic
I had a 1991 300TE-24 from the W124 range - absolutely brilliant! Could be a bit heavy on fuel if you floored the pedal but well worth it. I had a few electrical problems developing - niggling things like the windows stopped working. Maybe connected to the wiring loom problem that Hanz mentioned.

I posted this link on another thread - did you see it?

www.ccbenz.co.uk/30621/47307.html

You can get some cracking motors for a good price!
 

Bolide

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Window mechanism failures are common on W124s. It's normally the driver's window regulator that loses a tooth and the window doesn't shut properly. Second-hand window mechanisms are about £60 and take about an hour to fit - or 15 mins if you've done one before

Window failures are unrelated to the engine bay wiring loom

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 

Marco Polo

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Thanks Nick!

See what a mistake I made in trading my W124 in. I wish that I had taken the trouble to put these minor things right but unfortunately I was working 5,000 miles away from home and not entirely in control. I certainly did enjoy the car and with sensible driving found that I could get a reasonable 25/26mpg from the 3 litre engine.

I didn't have any problems with the suspension although a previous owner had to have the self-levelling system sorted out - don't remember the details of that.
 
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starlitegaize

starlitegaize

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W213 E class 250 estate
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #12
Thanks all

I really appreciate the advice, moving on from my "hairdresser special" a Peugeot 306 1.8SE convertible, which recently developed a leak on the hydraulic pipe which will cost £760 to fix... My 190s never cost me anything like that...!!! It has to go!
 

paulhandley

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I am so delighted with my E class 230TE Estate, I am buying a run out model next, hence my Silver/Gold one is for sale.
It has a beautiful black leather interior, a boot thats hardly been used.
Just had the spheres replaced, so nice and steady and smooth now, and new 12 months MOT, which it flew through no probs!
Few things to sort electrically like heater fan, A/C, drivers door window, but at £1100 you cant go wrong, it looks cosmetically hundred percent except the arches have been well repaired, but just need another go at the final spraying in etc! Grab a cheap car, may take an offer as I need space!!
 

AlisonH

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The windows seem to be very sensitive on mine, and even a bit of birdlime on the glass in the wrong place seems to affect it closing properly. Don't they have a sensor that prevents one getting caught in a window as it closes? Whatever, I find that I do need to keep the electric windows clear of any mucky stuff and an occasional squirt of WD40 onto the runners seems to help!
 

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