Advice on W124

[Troglodyte]

Hello all, I intend to plunge into the world of Mercedes ownership. At the moment, I'm seriously considering something along the lines of a 1994 E220 Auto. I was just wondering what I should look out for when I inspect the car and bring it out for a test drive, particularly as regards the auto box since I heard that it can be quite expensive to replace/repair. Just some basic pointers to ensure I don't end up with a lemon! Thanks.

 

[shirubaby]

if you have time and the owner is willing, take some of the spark plugs out and check them. Spark plugs can tell somethings about the condition of the engine. I wish I did...could've have saved me a whole load of expense.

 

[shirubaby]

check for oily residue in the coolant epansion tank.
Check for mayonnaise like creamy stuff on the inside of the oil filler cap. Check for the same mayo on the dipstick. - these may indicate a failed head gasket.

 

[shirubaby]

as regards for the autobox...after having warmed the car up and been for a test run...come to a stop. Move the shifter through all it's positions (pausing for a 3 seconds in each slot). Whilst the engine is running check the level of tranny fluid using the dipstick provided. It being low would indicate a leak somewhere, and of the owner was not careful could indicate a worn gearbox.
I have a small leak in my transmission, but I keep an eye on it.
Gear shifts should be smooth but noticable.
Also check if there is a delay from when you put the car into drive and the gearing engages to move the car forward. There should be minimal delay, not a big jerky movement.

 

[shirubaby]

check the idling revs. My 3 litre straight-6 on initial startup idles high (under 1000 rpm) and then drops to around 500 - 550 rpm (when warmed up and in "D"rive). Excessive idle rpm may indicate a faulty Over-voltage protection relay. This is very easy to fix, however, but could be a good bargaining point. ABS light coming on? May also be down to the OVP being faulty.

Also...ask if the bushes have been replace at any time during it's life (the rear lower suspension arm outer bushes are a known weak area.)

 

[flagstaff]

what the others have said, plus: a reiteration of the smoothness of the drivetrain. no bangs and shoves when putting it into gear or driving along.

do not expect silent progress, unless on very smooth roads; the suspension bushes will be worn/perished/hardened by now. it's an easy(ish) cure, but requires time to DIY and can be expensive to have done for you (rusted bolts etc)

on a 220 motor the tappets may need replacing - noise from the upper engine will be the symptom. again, an easy(ish) fix. if the motor has been looked after well, then the oil pressure should still be up to the top of the scale, even when idling in D with the car fully warmed up.

make sure the car sits level, front to rear; if it sags at the back, then large suspension components may need replacement.

 

[Bolide]

Buying a W124

My best advice is to drive a few cars before you make a decision. They can vary a lot and after driving a few you'll find it a lot easier to decide

The main caveats are worn autoboxes, worn or damaged interiors and poor history. If a car has any of those three I'd walk away. Ideally everything should work but minor electrical problems (non-working windows, noisy heater fan, etc) are fairly common but cureable. The outer bolster of the driver's seat is usually worn. Aircon tends to fail and will always be expensive to fix. People go on about the rear suspension of estates but, in practice, it's not a problem

280s and 320s generally have a higher spec than the diesel / 200 / 220 / 230 models. I'd avoid 300s (too thirsty), bizarre-coloured interiors, manuals and cars where the seller "bought it off his cousin who also serviced the car but there are no bills..."

A good W124 should be like a magic carpet - smooth, quiet, refined and a nice place to spend time. Buy a good one and it may even appreciate with age!

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk