Disconnect the supply pipe from underneath and blow through the nozzle with an airline. Using a pin from outside to clear can sometimes work but often makes the problem worse by compacting the obstruction.
If neither option works it may be hard water scale (especially if they are heated nozzles), in which case one would need to remove the assembly and soak in descaler. Use of poor quality screen wash can be the cause. Also never good to mix different types of concentrate as this can cause gunk to precipitate and sludge up the tank and nozzles.
I find a pin can often be too big, so use a different implement to get deep into the nozzle to clear it. If you have a steel wire brush, take a pair of pliers and selecting just one of the wire bristles, pull it out of the brush. This bristle should then be thin enough to get deep into the nozzle from the outside to clear any blockage.
I've used this method many times over the years with great success.
Only Mercedes nozzle doesn't work. Never heard of in ford, Nissan and other cars.
I opened it up twice on my w211, I gave up as long as the other side of the nozzle works and doesn't fail mot. It something to do with the ball bearing inside.
I have had my car for 5 years, and not yet had a blocked jet. Maybe as I always use halfords premix (fairly decent stuff). My last set of fords did often block so it is not a MB issue.
I've had blocked nozzles before and used a pin from the sewing box to unblock it.
But I've also had a split pipe, especially in models with Xenons and headlamp wash, sometimes the T joins can perish. You should tell though if that were the case, as you would be getting dripping or a leak at the front of the car?
if one of the hole is blocked blowing air through it will not clear the blockage , the air goes round it.
So disconnect the water pipe from the nozzle put a short piece of pipe back on the nozzle, fill it with water and ten blow it throu with an airline or better still a compressor.
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