buying an SL 107 - am i setting myself up for a world of pain?

Myros

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the 107 does have a hard-top

and is just like any other tin-topped coupe with it fitted. it's a two man, 10 minute job to fit or remove. I wouldn't be happy usuing the soft-top in winter anyway, as the kind of rain we have will saturate the thing eventually. Much better to fold it way in late autumn, and use the hard top over winter.

unless you are die-hard topless when it's not raining type, in which case you are beyond redemption. ( he said, wryly remembering his trip out with the lid off in minus 2 degrees and the wonderful tingle it give to the ears)
 
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awg294

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HI J2Bs,

I was in a very similar position a couple of years ago and bought an 85 500sl.

I went for the lower end of the price scale as I wanted something I could work on too. It was a bit scruffy but solid with good MB history, but the spec and colour that I liked - a black 500 and it's awesome to roll around in! Though I expect I would have saved myself a bit of money and negotiated more on the price if I'd joined this forum before buying and learned more about what specifics to look for, as they all have the "usual" issues, but nothing too bad and all solvable.

I'd agree with most of what was said here so far. Rust and bodywork is the main thing by far - where the heater box is, around the bulkead and heater intake champbers, and anything lower down on the car - sills, valances, inner arches, and don't forget bumpers - all metal and all rusts behind the chrome. And don't be fooled by the word "galvanise" that goes with post 85 facelift models - I've seen some "galvanised" ones that you can see the pavement through! Overall condition is key with special attention to the areas mentioned above.

Engine-wise I don't think there is much difference, buy the one you like depending on whether you want a V8 or a 6 - I only pay £160 a year to insure the 500, though it is off-street, but I'm a similar age and also in SW London. I think performance and consumption is pretty similar throughout the range - I get high 20s mpg on a cruise and of course it has 295lb ft of torque!

Mechanically it is very reliable, but parts are expensive when you need them -anything from MB is expensive, though you're likely only to need bodywork bits and pieces as long as you have a reasonable service history.

The thing with buying at the lower end though is that everything costs more to do than you think, and I ended up spending more than the car is now worth, though have enjoyed every minute of it. That's probably just the maths of classic car ownership though, but if careful no more cost than depreciation on a modern car. But then again part of the fun for me was that it's a great learning process, and these forums give some great advice that has solved quite a few problems and saved a fortune too, so thanks again to all here for that.

Regards, Al.
 

drewster

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This thread has helped me with most of my questions but one point
The late 107 were they galvanised chassis ??
 

Myros

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facelift versions had a bit of galvanising

although not so much as to make them unsinkable. They are on the whole more rust-resistant than pre facelift versions.
If you are looking at an 85 model, which is the changeover year, a quick visual tip is pre-facelift have chrome door handles, facelift have chrome and black abs door handles. otherwise. it can be hard to tell.
Mine has the facelift spoiler on the front, and lots of early cars have late model 15 hole alloys fitted to complete the illusion.
If I recall correctly, the change was August 85, but with our wierd and wacky registration scheme, and dealers keeping cars a while before registering, the v5 might lead you astray.
 

drewster

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i see i have a lot of resurch to do my hart is set on a 107 89/90 300 sl so that is where i shal start hope i can get one in good condition for 10k
 

mikestrivens

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This thread has helped me with most of my questions but one point
The late 107 were they galvanised chassis ??

I don't think they had galvanised chassis, but others will correct me if I'm wrong.
 

the gill

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i see i have a lot of resurch to do my hart is set on a 107 89/90 300 sl so that is where i shal start hope i can get one in good condition for 10k

Stick to private sales for £10K or less. You'll not get a good one at a dealers for that money. Any on sale for £10K will have cost them £5-6K and it doesn't take much to make these cars appear good.
The 500SL V8 makes a lovely noise and is around 7.4 to 60mph and unless you are planning on travelling stellar mileages the economy difference between the 300, 420 and 500 is negligible. Classic insurance costs will be the same for all three models. You'll also find the 500SL will have the nice extras as standard (e.g. LSD) and generally will have more options (e.g. heated seats (essential for summer nights and sunny winter days), cruise etc) as they were the 'rich man's' version of the car so they could afford to spec them up. What's not to like.

Great cars I don't regret buying mine for a second.
 

stickandrudder

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lots
Condition is everything when buying a 107, and price is not indicative of condition. You can find good ones cheaply and bad ones expensively, and vice versa. You just have to look a lot and always have an inspection by a specialist.
 


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