C class w203 door latch bouncing button

alec2

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I had this problem 2 years ago and fixed it with the WD 40 treatment .

Unfortunatly it has failed again and the WD40 method does not work this time.

I think I shall have to remove the inner passenger front door panel to remove the faulty latch and replace it.

Is this an easy task ?

Is there any chance of triggering an airbag?

I assume there are about 6 or 7 press in plastic attatchment studs and a few screws in the pull handle . I cannot see any screws, how do I get to them?

Any reccomendations for a source of supply of the new part, or is it a visit to the local merc dealer.

Alec
 

television

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Hello young man, would you like a paper on how to remove the door cards,,front or rear.

The motor is pop riveted on and I can also send this info as well if you would like it
 
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alec2

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Yes please Malcom.

Have you my mail address or will you post on this site.

Alec
 

television

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why not put your Email in you user CP, then it is there for all time, and I can send you a birthday card too

Please just repost when you have done this
 
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alec2

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I have updated my CP. Let me know if I need to do anything else

Thanks

Alec (not quite so young as I was)
 

television

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It is not there,,did you push the button at the bottom to apply the changes.

You can if you wish pop it up here and delete it in "edit" in a few mins
 

television

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If you click on your name it is not there PMs yes.

I have sent both papers to you:D
 

Barracuda

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Television,

I have the same bouncing pin problem with my W203. I have removed a door card before to change a window switch so I am ok with that bit. Please could you advise me on the WD40 trick to sort the pin out and also if that fails, what part do I have to replace and how? That would be great.

Thanks
 

television

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The only place where the the pin can stick is where the rod passes through the rubber grommet, and Silicon is much better or PTFE
 
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alec2

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The Wd 40 trick was.

Unscrew the button. (When door is unlocked)

Push about 15 to 20 cms of plastic tube (6mm dia) over the operating rod down untill it stops. (on the grommet).

Squirt wd 40 down the open end of the tube so it gets to the grommet.

Do not operate the lock when the button is off unless the tube is in place.

Work the lock a few times to see if there is any improvement.

Leave unlocked, replace button.

Takes less than 5 mins.

It worked on mine for 2 years. It is based on the assumption that the problem is the rod is sticking in the grommet and needing lubricating.

Silicone grease would probably be better but is more difficult to apply.

Good Luck

Alec
 
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alec2

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Thank you Malcom for the diagrams.

Assuming my problem is not the grommet sticking do you know the item most likely to be the problem.

Alec
 

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Yes a spring breaks inside the locking motor, a very common fault
 

5pares

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Yes replaced many locks,c class is the easiest to do.You'l have to remove the outer lock barrel if its the drivers side (which youl need a long t20) but the passenger side you dont have to,then removed bottom two rivets in the window regulater runner at the rear of the door.Undo the t30 bolts and the lock will just about fit through the gab. Think the locks are around £60 its the labour thats the killer esp at main dealers.
 


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