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C180 radiator replacement

Discussion in 'Engine, Drivetrain, Fuel and Exhaust' started by joneseythedog, Oct 31, 2012.

  1. joneseythedog

    joneseythedog Senior Member

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    Dear All

    My 1995 C180 (automatic, no A/C) needs a new radiator. Having been quoted £300+ to have this done at a local independent, I've decided to have a go at doing this myself.

    Have found one on ebay for £55 that looks OK:
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MERCEDES-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c66fea6ed

    ...and have also found these instructions:

    1. Empty the radiator - red cap on the bottom right hand end of the radiator will release.

    2. Two bands to unscrew that bring the water in and out - top right and bottom left of the radiator. Unscrew the clips and then slide the hoses off.

    3. Undo the 2 black plastic clips on the top front part of the radiator

    4. Unclip the 4 metal clips on the top front part of the radiator.

    5. Watch the fan cover - it will fall down but simply rest it on the fan blades - it is very light.

    6. Take radiator out - watching not to damage the fan blades.

    Two questions occur to me: Is it really that easy? Have I found the right part? The Chassis number of my car starts with WDB2020182.

    Any thoughts/advice very gratefully received!

    Thanks,
    Andrew
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2012
  2. frank133

    frank133 Senior Member

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    rad

    it is as easy as that mate,
    The only thing to check on the rad is the location of the auto box cooling pipes,
    some on the side ,some underneath,
    It is a straight forward job,go for it
     
  3. OP
    joneseythedog

    joneseythedog Senior Member

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    OK - Thanks

    Radiator ordered, together with hoses & clips (just in case). Will update when done....

    Andrew
     
  4. OP
    joneseythedog

    joneseythedog Senior Member

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    Done it!! Took a couple of hours, but I took my time. Fairly easy, but I was a bit worried about getting stuff in the gearbox oil pipes, even though I'd covered them with freezer bags. Had a minor issue fitting the sensor on top of the tank, as the lug holes were 180 degrees out, pointing the sensor wires toward the engine block. Just trimmed a bit off one of the lugs and all was well. Thanks for the advice given.

    Just a couple of things now...

    * the coolant level light comes on intermittently. The water level in the header tank looks OK, and I've squeezed pipes and topped-up. Will keep doing this.

    * The temp gauge shows a lower temperature than before - around 70 or so now, I think. Gets a bit warmer if the car is not moving. Is the new radiator working too well, or could this be due to some airlock somewhere?

    Thanks,

    Andrew
     
  5. television

    television Always remembered RIP

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    Pleased its all done,, it is probably the thermostat keeping the temp down, very common fault
     
  6. OP
    joneseythedog

    joneseythedog Senior Member

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    Does that mean I need a new thermostat then, or is it OK to leave? Had thought of putting a bit of card over part of the radiator fins to limit the cooling effect, but perhaps not the ideal solution :D
     
  7. television

    television Always remembered RIP

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    I would change it as it makes a huge difference to the fuel consumption and cabin warmth, it should be running at 90c,,,
     
  8. WG M-B

    WG M-B Senior Member Authorised Forum Supporter

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    Absolutely as above, fit a new stat. It's also worth pointing out that the coolant level needs to be quite high in the rad in order for the light to go out
     
  9. OP
    joneseythedog

    joneseythedog Senior Member

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    Thanks for that, will sort it out. Do I need to drain the radiator again then, or just enough to empty the top pipe?

    Heater is dodgy at best of times, but even poorer now btw. Fixed dry joint last year that caused the dials to flash, but looks like something similar gone again as the driver side thumbwheel doesn't seem to do anything. Passenger side works OK, and seems to control the driver side too!

    Andrew
     
  10. television

    television Always remembered RIP

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    I never bother draining and just undo the thermostat housing and let it drop to its own level, if you are really tight like me you can catch the water, and sieve it and put it back when done
     
  11. OP
    joneseythedog

    joneseythedog Senior Member

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    Did thermostat at weekend. Cost £17 + vat from ECP, and took no time to fit. Put new tensioner arm on at same time to cure noisy rattle from top bush (see separate post). Engine temp now back nicely over 80.

    Thanks for all advice & help on this. Next job - find and fit replacement heater panel to cure non-functioning driver-side thumbwheel adjustment (stuck on cold, sometimes gets warm when passenger side set to high)....

    Andrew
     

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