C220 2002 no turbo boost

Erhan

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Hi all,

My name is Erhan and Im from London. I have taken ownership of a Mercedes C220 2002 coupe auto for the last couple of months at 186,000 miles.

I am a car enthusiast and always do my own car work. However I have come unstuck with this ever so complicated and stubborn merc. I've done the snapped swirl flap inlet replacement. Black death repair which also needed the bolt threads re-tapped (nightmare), wishbones and so on. I have got the old girl to where I was almost done with making her a half decent car again.

The problem I have now is I sprayed carb cleaner through the intake to clean the egr system whilst engine was running and gave the engine bay a good wash.

After coming out to the car the next morning and starting her up I noticed the revs were not going passed 3000rpm, struggling to power on and no turbo kicking in.

I have changed the maf sensor, one of the control boost vacuum solenoid and cleaned the map and air temp sensor. I did this with second hand parts obviously from a merc breaker. The car revs normal now but still no turbo.

I managed to get a diagnostic done which came up with an error code - P1470-004
Charge pressure control short circuit.

I have done vac leak checks and can't seem to get any further with this.

I would be so grateful if anyone could advise on where this code is pointing towards and what I can do to rectify.

Also to mention the car does still have heavy exhaust fumes that I can smell next to the car outside and when using the heating even after fixing the injector leaks.
Not sure if this issue goes hand in hand with no boost, or possible exhaust cracked?

o_O:(:mad:
 

mersum1es

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swap egr and turbo vacuum actuators.
 
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Erhan

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swap egr and turbo vacuum actuators.
Thanks for quick reply. Just to mention I had the egr checked with pressure tool and was advised it's operating properly. Am I correct in thinking there is two vac actuators on this car. 1 next to the inlet and one hooked up next to he header tank? I have replaced just the vac actuator on inlet manifold side.
 

mersum1es

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yep they are similar, inlet manifold side goes to EGR, coolant tank side goes to turbo. Did you check your EGR is actually working, open stuck EGR valve would trigger a limp mode at some point when charge pressure does not match
 
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Erhan

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yep they are similar, inlet manifold side goes to EGR, coolant tank side goes to turbo. Did you check your EGR is actually working, open stuck EGR valve would trigger a limp mode at some point when charge pressure does not match
I will swap over the header tank side vac actuator tommorow. The egr I had seen operating correctly and was not stuck when I pulled the inlet hose off and use the pressure tool. I also cleaned any gunk out.
 
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Erhan

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I will swap over the header tank side vac actuator tommorow. The egr I had seen operating correctly and was not stuck when I pulled the inlet hose off and use the pressure tool. I also cleaned any gunk out.
Even with this issue the engine light has never come on.
 
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Erhan

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yep they are similar, inlet manifold side goes to EGR, coolant tank side goes to turbo. Did you check your EGR is actually working, open stuck EGR valve would trigger a limp mode at some point when charge pressure does not match
Hi mersum1es,

Thanks for the advise I swapped over the turbo vacactuator and this has solved the issue.

Much appreciated.

In regards to the exhaust fumes coming through the vents when I put the heating on. I did fix the injector leaks but thought maybe there is an exhaust leak as well but someone advised very unlikely to be exhaust leak. Is there anywhere else this would be coming from??? The leak is not obvious to the eye.
 

mersum1es

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other actuator may be broken then...

Double check non of the injectors is puffing when engine runs (listen, feel your hand over the injectors). One pretty rare leaking spot is exhaust manifold, either snapped bolt or crack... usually you may see some soot around leaking place. Are you sure you have all egr parts in place, did you removed swirl flaps, blocked actuator holes tight? Usually 80% of the new faults are caused by previous repair/maintenance :)
 
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Erhan

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I did not remove the swirl flats, when putting the inlet back on I used new gaskets. Egr vac solenoid filter is black so would that be have any gases releasing from their? Filter replacement maybe needed? I need to remove the airbox to see manifold but did not notice any obvious soot or leaks. The injectors I sprayed fairy water and no bubbling and can't really smell anything from each injector. It's a vague smell when I first open bonnet but accumulates when driving and enters the cabin through heating.
 
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Erhan

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Hi mersum1es Just to mention the fuel pump is leaking, it is wet but a slow gradual dampness. I doubt this would smell like exhaust fumes. But not sure if you think that would be the issue??
 

mersum1es

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In my opinion diesel odor is quite recognizable but why not if it is spreading it all over the engine bay, it may smell odd. EGR should not leak to vac side if I recall the system right... never opened mine.
 
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Erhan

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Would you happen to have an image of the vac on egr, so I can reference against maybe the 2 vac lines that attach to the solenoid are right way on? And could you confirm that an exhaust leak from the exhaust itself can be possible, I've been told it does not have a flexible joint and has a knuckle joint which would not leak? Also if their is a small leak on boost pipes or intercooler would think be exhaust smell?
In my opinion diesel odor is quite recognizable but why not if it is spreading it all over the engine bay, it may smell odd. EGR should not leak to vac side if I recall the system right... never opened mine.
 

mersum1es

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Isn't there stamps on valve which line goes where? vac out or something
 
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Erhan

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Isn't there stamps on valve which line goes where? vac out or something
I never noticed anything like that but I'll check. I had a look tonight and found one of the injector seal. Repairs I did is leaking again. Not sure if the injector itself is leaking but will try the seal repair again. I had read that Honda injector seals would be better to use. If so what injector seal should I specify when I contact Honda?
 

mersum1es

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nah put mb seal... check that sealing surfaces bottom hole and injector nozzle cap holder both are good, no crack in nozzle holder, greade injector body with ceramic grease, clean bolt thread and tighten 7Nm +90 +90 deg.
 

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You sprayed carb cleaner through the air intake on a diesel turbo ...not recomended, could penetrate the turbo oil seal.
 
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Erhan

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You sprayed carb cleaner through the air intake on a diesel turbo ...not recomended, could penetrate the turbo oil seal.
Only short small bursts of a spray and not much.
 
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Erhan

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I have used pattern part injector seals. Would this be be any worse than using genuine seals?
 

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Hi Erhan.
Same car as you, a 2002 cl203 sport coupe.
Had to do all my injectors in the end. I used the Merc standard copper seals and didn't bother with the Honda ones which are a smidge thicker.
Important to note that once the injector seal has gone, the exhaust gasses blowing by seem to cause the actual seat to get damaged. I bought a reamer and cleaned the seats very carefully so they were perfect again. Do a search on here for injector seats and more info may come up to help you. Also, I got the special cleaning tools for the seats which are wire brushes and a small plug to stop dirt going into the bores. Must admit I did not need the brushes and plugs after finally reaming the seats.
Do get the ceramic grease because it ensures the injectors don't get stuck too badly and also forms a barrier to stop stray dirt going down the holes.
If you need the part numbers shout and I will hook them out for you.

Exhaust. Hmmm, had many issues with the exhaust. Normally its a gasket issue between Cat and turbo or as mentioned earlier at the manifold. However, saying that, the exhaust may be getting in from under the car via the opening below the auto gearchange lever. Mine is blowing at the end pipe connection with the second cat quite badly now.
Once it's fixed the cabin will stink as the exhaust gasses coat the inside of the blower tubes and the cabin pollen filter will probably need changing as it gets into the fibres and stinks. I sprayed "Nuetrodol" air freshner into the blower inlet which helped and then a cabin freshener from ECP for a tenner which again made a difference.
Best bet is to look carefully at each joint for black soot, indicating blowby, and use a piece of toilet tissue held in pliers or similar holding device. Hold it very close to each joint and go around it looking to see if the tissue moves/flutters. If it does, you have found a leak. Use genuine Merc gaskets, I found the "pattern parts" ok but not perfect and required more remedial work before junking it and going genuine seals.

Hope you get it sorted. They are a good car once the issues are sorted.
Kind regards.
 
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Erhan

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Hi Erhan.
Same car as you, a 2002 cl203 sport coupe.
Had to do all my injectors in the end. I used the Merc standard copper seals and didn't bother with the Honda ones which are a smidge thicker.
Important to note that once the injector seal has gone, the exhaust gasses blowing by seem to cause the actual seat to get damaged. I bought a reamer and cleaned the seats very carefully so they were perfect again. Do a search on here for injector seats and more info may come up to help you. Also, I got the special cleaning tools for the seats which are wire brushes and a small plug to stop dirt going into the bores. Must admit I did not need the brushes and plugs after finally reaming the seats.
Do get the ceramic grease because it ensures the injectors don't get stuck too badly and also forms a barrier to stop stray dirt going down the holes.
If you need the part numbers shout and I will hook them out for you.

Exhaust. Hmmm, had many issues with the exhaust. Normally its a gasket issue between Cat and turbo or as mentioned earlier at the manifold. However, saying that, the exhaust may be getting in from under the car via the opening below the auto gearchange lever. Mine is blowing at the end pipe connection with the second cat quite badly now.
Once it's fixed the cabin will stink as the exhaust gasses coat the inside of the blower tubes and the cabin pollen filter will probably need changing as it gets into the fibres and stinks. I sprayed "Nuetrodol" air freshner into the blower inlet which helped and then a cabin freshener from ECP for a tenner which again made a difference.
Best bet is to look carefully at each joint for black soot, indicating blowby, and use a piece of toilet tissue held in pliers or similar holding device. Hold it very close to each joint and go around it looking to see if the tissue moves/flutters. If it does, you have found a leak. Use genuine Merc gaskets, I found the "pattern parts" ok but not perfect and required more remedial work before junking it and going genuine seals.

Hope you get it sorted. They are a good car once the issues are sorted.
Kind regards.
Thanks for the detailed response dogfish. Reason I mention Honda washer is because I read it's thicker and seals better as it has more flexibility. I would appreciate the part number for me injector seals. As you say great runners once issues resolved.
 

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