C220 CDI W202 BAS/ESP Comes on

Mikimogo

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Hi all,
I have a problem with the BAS/ESP light coming on, most times if you switch off the ignition and back on it will go out for a while and then back on but sometimes it just stays on even after restarting and the turning of the steering wheel reset doesn't seem to do anything (from right lock to left lock twice) I have tried taking out the switch and taking out the smaller plug with just 2 wires (the other plug has 4 wires I think for the brake lights) and put a piece of wire across them and turned on the ignition but the light stays on. I got this info from a thread a while ago but I have just noticed (dumbo)that that was for a BAS/ASR light so I don't know if that test still applies, I can't seem to find any threads on this problem but quite a while ago there seemed to be a few problems with this. I seem to remember that it was also reported that it could be the wheel speed sensor wherever that is (obviously on the wheel somewhere) or is there one on more than one wheel?
Any help will be appreciated, and I know you guys always help if you can.:confused:
 

5pares

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Have you replaced the brake light switch?thats the first place to start.You could check the internal resistances of each wheel speed sensor to rule them out,but the easiest way is to have the faults read.
 

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You cannot substitute the brake light switch,,this is a 2 part thing, that carries part of the CAN BUS and speed signal,,they only cost £10 and easy to fit
 
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Mikimogo

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Hi all,
Well I've put in the new stop light switch unit but the light is still coming on although not quite as often. Some times when I start up it is off and then it just comes on it could be coincidence but it seems to be after goibg round a corner. I wonder if the fault is registered in the ECU and needs clearing from the ECU memory. Any ideas appreciated.:confused:

All the best.
 

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This looks like a wheel sensor fault, and the sensor is loosing contact, is a wheel bearing a little loose mabe
 
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Mikimogo

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Hi Malcolm,
I don't think it's a wheel bearing as it's just been tracked and MOT'd and the garage is a stickler for wheel checking. I thoughtmit may be when I went round a corner but yesterday it didn't come on at all but today I startrted it up and it was off but it came on after about 4 seconds and I hadn't even started moving then. I'll have to have a look at the wheel sensors do you have any idea what the resistance should be across them. On thinking about it when they did the MOT they replaced the back shock absorbers I wonder if they've disturbed a sensor. I'll have to go round them


Thanks as always,
Best Regards,
Mick
 
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BAS/ESP Light sorted

Hi all,
Well I finally sorted my BAS/ESP warning light problem which now was by now stopping on all the time, I hooked my laptop up to the car with Carsoft diagnostics. I got code C1142 Lateral acceleration sensor open/short circuit check voltage of sensor ignition ON 4.76 v-5.25v or steering angle sensor check voltage 11.4v-14v or check gap between optical unit and clock sping assembly 3mm-4.5mm. While I'd got the computer hooked up I thought I may as well do other checks amongst them Aircon which surprised me because it seemed to be working okay! but I got an error on that B1416 Hot water coolant circulation pump -verify the hot circulation pump and wires. I started with the Lateral acceleration sensor under the cover at the front of the boot, voltage was ok so checked the steering angle sensor voltage and gap ok, but after hours of dismantleing checking and re-assembling and scratching my head I thought I would check all the fuses. I started checking each fuse one by one because some fuses are linked with other fuses all were okay all the way through so whilst standing pondering where to go next I inadvertently found myself tapping all the fuses on by one, I didn't even realise that I was doing it until I got to fuse 30 10amp and I noticed that when I tapped this there was a click from somewhere towards the dashboard so I tapped it lightly again and each time there was the same click (like a relay clicking) so I took out the fuse and just tuned it round and then tapped it and No click so I checked the BAS/ESP light and guess what No Light so I hooked it up to the computer again and NO fault and checked also the Aircon and again, no fault. I then checked the fuse on WIS-ASRA and fuse 30 does the Instrument Cluster and Hot water circulation pump amongst quite a few other things so it wasn't actually a fault with the BAS/ESP it was the same as disconnecting the battery you have to reset the BAS/ESP. the momentary interruption in power when the fuse disconnected put on the BAS/ESP light. What I don't understand is why there was no other apparent malfunction of the instrument cluster. ANOTHER JOB DONE.
Hope this helps anyone with a similar fault.Sometimes lateral thinking is better than a computer!
 
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Hi MIck,
I am suffering the same problem.
I contacted 3 dealers, and they all say... you have to leave the car here and then we'll see!!!! You knaw what that means ... don't you:
Every time I hit a bump on the road the BAS/Esp lights go on the autonatic gear stop working ,must stop and restart the car,
WHAT A DRAG!
I have replaced the stop light at first and mothing happened,had two diagnosis done saying "lateral sensor switch (replaced with a second hand one same code) and bad ground connection.....
Whay should I do?
Also ANOTHER BIG PROBLEM.... with half ffull tank, no fuel to the engine... see a lot of air bubbles and the car won't start,... fill up the tank and it starts again.
WHAT A DISASTER AS A CAR!
Had two Merceds in the past whch aere very good... but this one..... forget it.......guess they have used chinese poor electronic!
Oh I forgot.... my dash is gone as well.
ANy suggestion welcomwd.
Saioro
Italy
 

Myros

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you can't beat basic fault-finding can you

as I have just done what you described to my 210, taken out every fuse, checked them turned them around so I know where i've been, and replaced the one burned out 7.5 amp i found under the back seat which controls the car alarm ( i found that as soon as I put a good one in and had the alarm go off).
I prayed like Madonna and started up. Only 2 malfunctions instead of the three i'd been having. In for a penny, in for a pound, I drove up and down the driveway wibbling the wheel like mad from side to side. Switched off, re-started, and no more malfunctions.

Mick, name your favourite charity, as this is worth a donation from me ( pm if you like).
So far this has cost me a lot of money, and a fair amount of elbow grease and brow-furrowing. of course I checked the big BAS fuse, but that was fine. The car alarm had never gone off, (natch, burned out fuse) so I wouldn't have suspected that in a month of sundays.

The annoying thing is that none of the diagnostics used so far have pointed anywhere near this. I have had all that lateral sensor and steering angle sensor and Control unit stuff from carsoft, and Star at the indies said steering angle sensor as well, when it was nothing like it in real life.

All the professionals said book it in, we need more time with it, and no doubt we would have ended up replacing just about everything and still not fixing it.

I now happily have for sale a used and known not to be suspect steering angle sensor, and a used and known not to be suspect esp control unit. part numbers and prices will follow later.

Thanks again Mick, and everyone else who came up with useful ideas, mainly Malcolm.
 
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television

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So pleased that its OK I was going to dedicate this Sunday to try and find an answer to this one

The hard thing was that there are 3 versions of this,,yes now I have found the correct one fuse 11 it controls the level control on ADS cars,, ESP and steering angle sensor.

It also does the ATA inclination sensor , left motion sensor,and right, also the signal horn
 

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i guess this worked like an intermittent fault, the fuse just making contact until you go over bumps?

obviously when the module loses the output from the sensor it lights the warning etc. turn off/on reset till the next time. the fault code you got was helpful as it related to power supply to sensors which you can trace with circuit diagrams etc. but as an intermittent fault this is impossible to trace this way in the workshop, as has been said the main dealer would be changing modules like socks on this one!!

glad it got sorted, and it certainly shows the need for an open mind and lateral thinking with such matters.
 

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i guess this worked like an intermittent fault, the fuse just making contact until you go over bumps?

obviously when the module loses the output from the sensor it lights the warning etc. turn off/on reset till the next time. the fault code you got was helpful as it related to power supply to sensors which you can trace with circuit diagrams etc. but as an intermittent fault this is impossible to trace this way in the workshop, as has been said the main dealer would be changing modules like socks on this one!!

glad it got sorted, and it certainly shows the need for an open mind and lateral thinking with such matters.

From basic training I always check the power supply before going in too deep,,but even doing this can do your mind in when it is a poor contact
 
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Hi Guys;
Sorry for not replying, I've been away for 2 weeks. So glad that the info helped you. Mine has been fine for the 2 weeks until last night and guess what come on? Dead right the damn ESP light and its been chucking it down all day today so hopefully tomorrow I can lift the fuse box and check the contacts. Don't know what sort of job that is going to be but it's got to be something there as its been fine since I turned the fuse round. I'll let you know how I got on. Oh by the way Saioro did you sort any of your problems? Have you checked you fuel filter I am not sure that this is probable but maybe if your fuel filter is clogged and when your tank is full you are getting a bit more pressure to the filter allowing the car to start again, just a thought and yes I have already been told that one of the effects of the ESP problem is that the auto gearbox can lock up. Have you got any further with it.:confused:
 

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well, one week and counting Mick

no probs yet ( sounds of finger crossing). I had a plethora of faults, including get you home lock-up in second twice, but that cleared on re-start.

After finding that fuse, nothing. Who'd have thought an obscure and seemingly unrelated circuit can cause so much grief.

The main faults and codes were BAS/ESP ABS visit workshop, and steering angle sensor, ESP ECU and Brake pressure regulator.

As I said, you have saved me a packet. Name your charity.
 

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I have excactly the same fault on my E320CDI, same BAS/ESP and ABS warning comes on when it feels like it! I will check my fuses under the seat too, anyone know if the same applies to my model???
 

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I have excactly the same fault on my E320CDI, same BAS/ESP and ABS warning comes on when it feels like it! I will check my fuses under the seat too, anyone know if the same applies to my model???

The brake light switch applies to your car, and only £10 and easy to change
 
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Mikimogo

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CDI W202 BAS/ESP Comes on

Hi guys;
Well just an update, at the begining of last week I thought that I would have day on trying to solve the problem although it is not coming on as often (was on most of the time before turned the fuse around) I put the car on my laptop and got the same results, Stored fault:C1140 Lateral accelleration sensor or micro mechanical turn rate open or short circuit check voltage at sensor of 4.75v to 5.25v ignition ON and: C1142 Steering angle sensor short or open circuit check voltage at terminal 30 11-14v ignition OFF and 11v-14v ignition ON, Where is terminal 30? does it mean terminal 30 in the fusebox or is terminal 30 somewhere else? I haven't a clue. I have cleaned every single fuse and sprayed a touch of Servisol electronics cleaner into the fuse sockets, I've checked the tension at the Lat Acc sensor and Yaw sensor while I was at it and it was 4.9v which is between the suggested 4.75v and 5.25 v, I checked the voltage at terminal 30 in the fuse box in case that is what it means by terminal 30 and that was between 11v and 14v as suggested. When I started it up No light. Since that I have done around 300miles and no light until today and this afternoon it just came on, After about 1 mile I was sitting in a traffic que so turned the ignition off for about 4 mins, when I turned it back on NO LIGHT and it has stayed off for the remaining 30 miles of the journey home. I think I am going to have to change the Steering angle sensors and Lateral Acc sensors just to rule them out. So if anyone has any of them spare please let me know if you don't need them. Oh and Myros if your problems have really cleared and you want to give something to charity I will leave the choice in your safe hands maybe Cancer or Heart foundations but please make sure that you are certain that the problems are rectified (fingers crossed) because I thought mine was but it keeps coming back and biting me on the backside.
People and relatives and neighbours always come to me if their Car or TV has packed up or Vac or stereo or vitually any thing electrical (I was many years in the TV trade) and 9 times out of 10 I fix them but whenever it's mine I have absolutely no luck whatsoever (****** marvellouse).

Any Ideas would as always be gratefully received. PLLLLEEEEAAAASSSSEEEE!!!!!:confused:
I am now going to go outside and have another look under the fusebox because something keeps drawing me to that! Anyone Know where the earth points are related to the ESP?
 
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Alex Crow

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terminal 30 is unswitched battery positive. ie permanent live, as required by eg the steering angle sensor to memorise its position. the steering angle sensor can actually only register its position within 360 deg to a 2.5 deg resolution, to know exactly where it is it relies on counting 360 deg cycles from lock to lock - hence the initialising procedure. once initialised it always knows where it is untill it powers down. this is why it needs permanent live, and why it needs initialising when it looses power.

so there you go if anyone wondered why we have to turn them lock to lock :D
 
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Mikimogo

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Thanks Alexander.
The voltage seems okay there. I have noticed today that the light can be off when I park up but sometimes when I start it again it is on, without the vehicle being moved and turning from lock to lock doesn't do anything but if I switch off and leave it a couple of minutes, more often than not when i restart it is off, It still comes on sometimes when i'm driving but after switching off and leaving it a while when I start it up again it can be off, without doing anything. This thing has got me baffled, I wonder if it can be a loose earth somewhere?
 

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