C220 changed injector now it runs lumpy when idle in D

[Lewwwiss]

Changed injector 2 since had no start fuel pressure low. Car starts now but still EML light on still in limp mode and lumpy idle in D. But fine in P and N. Engine also stutters and jumps about when setting off 0-10mph. I used the old bolt which I know I shouldn’t have but couldn’t get replacement in time and need my car. Could that be the cause as somehow maybe air is getting in?

 

[mioba]

Many injectors have a QR code for marrying to the car.
And yes the bolts are single use (they stretch) so whatever you torque it too its longer than should be and will of course leak. Sometimes half a job costs you in the long run. Leaky injector, black death, so on. A bolt would be at the dealers max in a day. Make sure the bolt bores are spotless clean.

Oh and reading your other post, did you get the correct part no ? to start with.

correct part, injector seat cleaning, new seal washer, new bolt to correct torque, code injector - you will be good to go.

 

[Lewwwiss]

Many injectors have a QR code for marrying to the car.
And yes the bolts are single use (they stretch) so whatever you torque it too its longer than should be and will of course leak. Sometimes half a job costs you in the long run. Leaky injector, black death, so on. A bolt would be at the dealers max in a day. Make sure the bolt bores are spotless clean.

Oh and reading your other post, did you get the correct part no ? to start with.

correct part, injector seat cleaning, new seal washer, new bolt to correct torque, code injector - you will be good to go.

Yes mate I just needed the car asap and nowhere is open to get the bolt. Will be phoning dealers Monday. Yes mate I got the exact same injector, all part numbers the same

 

[mioba]

Did you replace the sealing washer

 

[VitoVanMan]

Sound like you were in a bit of a rush, which I understand when you need your car urgently.
However like mioba intimated...the bolt hole needs to be absolutely spotless, I spend hours cleaning them out, using extended M6 taps as well as flatted M6 stretch bolts so I can screw an M6 stretch bolt down to the bottom of the blind hole by hand knowing there is no resistance when I come to torque them down to the specified 7 Nm on final assembly.
I know my local MB dealership won't let their own technicians clean the bolt holes and injector seats, but employ an outside engineering company to perform this cleaning task.
As for the fresh copper sealing washer, I find the Honda seals much more superior in quality and give a better and longer lasting seal than the Mercedes ones. I also anneal them to a cherry red colour to give that extra bit of malleability as you need every bit of help trying to seal these injectors and prolong their sealing capabilities and prevent the inevitable black death.
The last time I picked up a set of seals from my local Honda dealership, the guy told me they have hundreds of Mercedes owners buying their seals, many more than Honda customers.
Here is the part number of the Honda seals should you wish to go down this route: H16472RBDE00, there is another benefit from these seals , because they are marginally thicker than the Mercedes seals , you get a better spray pattern, so a better burn and over time better fuel consumption. Hope this helps in your quest to solve the injector seals.
I see you got the same part number for you new injector, however there is a unique 6 digit serial number you have to scan into the ECU memory. So you need to delete the old number on injector No 2 file and then input the new unique number of the new injector with a scanner.