C320 cdi OM642 sometimes loses boost

[LostKiwi]

Silly question but have you checked the pipework for splits or the intercooler for a hole? Neither are uncommon.

 

[Cooper645]

Ok, I did the TPS reset procedure and things seem improved. Not sure if it’s 100% right but it’s definitely fine for the commute. Haven’t had any error codes popping up either.

if after a week no error codes/issues I may swap the old MAP sensor back in to see if it was that that caused my problems or not.

may have simply been those filters?

will also be changing the fuel filter soon as that is likely overdue.

 

[Cooper645]

Hello again forum,

Still no fault codes popping up but something still not correct.
0-20mph - 2.5s
0-40mph - 5.5s
0-60mph - 10.2s

Decided to have a look around at some hoses and connections and have put my findings below. Some advice would be appreciated.

Where might this residue/oil be coming from and could those (what look like) splits be a root cause?

 

[LostKiwi]

I'd be pulling that hose off for a good look.

 

[Cooper645]

In the last picture, is that
a) a coolant return hose
b) look like its not home all the way

In the second & third pictures is that the hose from the intercooler?

Are these likely to be big jobs as the car is my only daily driver?

 

[Cooper645]

I'm not pulling it off until I have a replacement for it.

It must be the issue, reading other forums its a common issue and it causes all my issues. Others have reported the exact same OBD code I received first time round, although my googling never turned up their threads....odd.

I have one in the eBay basket but will check the price from the dealership, never know your luck, may be cheaper although I doubt it.

Thanks to everyones help and I'm sure we now have light at the end of the tunnel.
At least I blinking well hope so.

I believe the residue/oil is likely from that pipe, so I'll give it a good clean up when I change it and monitor just in case.

Have checked the EPC to confirm Part Number and finally deciphered the WIS to see the removal/replacement process.
also.

Should be an easy job....famous last words

 

[Larkone]

Had similar oil mist around my turbo to intercooler pipes (OM642). On taking them off I had one split seal (green one turbo end) and the others were hard and compressed so they were all replaced. No more oil misting at the joints and a slight improvement in response. They all came apart and went back together without issue - used a wipe of hi-temp silicone grease to help seat them.

Yours look like pipe splits but i would change the o-ring seals at the same time as they degrade with age.

 

[Cooper645]

So, have been out and done the job, old pipe off and new pipe on. Dropped a screwdriver down behind grille so that came off and on again too.



Three very large splits and another at the rear.

new pipe fitted and will hope all is good on the drive to work tomorrow. I would test it tonight but a couple of beers assisted with getting the job done. (All by torch light in drizzle)

I shall report back but am hopeful that all is now right with the old girl.

Coops

 

[Wighty]

So, have been out and done the job, old pipe off and new pipe on. Dropped a screwdriver down behind grille so that came off and on again too.

View attachment 53947

Three very large splits and another at the rear.

new pipe fitted and will hope all is good on the drive to work tomorrow. I would test it tonight but a couple of beers assisted with getting the job done. (All by torch light in drizzle)

I shall report back but am hopeful that all is now right with the old girl.

Coops

Fingers crossed buddy

 

[bembo449]

either way that pipe needed to be changed pal so if it doesn't completely cure it , you can rule that out

 

[Wighty]

Silly question but have you checked the pipework for splits or the intercooler for a hole? Neither are uncommon.

Turns out you guessed that one right buddy

 

[Cooper645]

Thanks to everyone for they’re helping and suggestions. Replacement of that pipe along with the Air Filters has solved my issue. I left the new MAP sensor on the air box fitted as I had the part any how.

what a wealth of knowledge there is on here and a proactive community.

my sincere thanks to everyone.

Coops

 

[Cooper645]

Is there any way to mark the thread as solved?

 

[Wighty]

Is there any way to mark the thread as solved?

You just did buddy

 

[Cooper645]

Ok, so now I have limp mode. Upon investigation the actuator is goosed. No movement when switching engine on.
Get to 2000 rpm and the car just kangaroos along the road.

there is no G Code on the side of the actuator gearbox, so I have ordered a second hand one to see if that gets me right. If so I’ll consider getting a replacement refurbed one ready.
The turbo also has a carwoods plate on it so potentially previously replaced?

as I had stuff out, I have epoxied the batwing split that I have.

once I solve the initial issue - I’m going to replace the PCV as a matter of course (it’s of the newest type with the clamped orange grommet)

Removed the egr pipe at the front of the engine and cleaned that out, fairly funky in there.

I really hope I can get this all sorted as I love the car, but hate the current “driving enjoyment factor”

is it worth doing the swirl flap resistor mod? And how much effort is it to get to and inspect the swirl flaps?

 

[Wighty]

Ok, so now I have limp mode. Upon investigation the actuator is goosed. No movement when switching engine on.
Get to 2000 rpm and the car just kangaroos along the road.

there is no G Code on the side of the actuator gearbox, so I have ordered a second hand one to see if that gets me right. If so I’ll consider getting a replacement refurbed one ready.
The turbo also has a carwoods plate on it so potentially previously replaced?

as I had stuff out, I have epoxied the batwing split that I have.

once I solve the initial issue - I’m going to replace the PCV as a matter of course (it’s of the newest type with the clamped orange grommet)

Removed the egr pipe at the front of the engine and cleaned that out, fairly funky in there.

I really hope I can get this all sorted as I love the car, but hate the current “driving enjoyment factor”

is it worth doing the swirl flap resistor mod? And how much effort is it to get to and inspect the swirl flaps?

You could try the engine bay fuse box by the brake fluid reservoir and check fuse F44 , 15amp , this controls some of the turbo , inlet port motor stuff ?
The pcv is worth upgrading I did mine last year for £60 ish .
The swirl flap motor mod , is very easy , it’s just under the batwing , 4.7k ohm resistor into the middle two terminals of the electrical supply to the swirl flap motor . I did mine at just before 100k miles as a treat and it’s one less reason to go into limp mode .
You can’t easily visually check swirl flaps , without a lot of disassembly, I believe Star can check their operation , but that doesn’t mean they won’t jam up in the future .
As far as the actuator , if you remove it there are some wires (4? ) around the outside of its fuse board that can break or burn out , might be worth checking before spending money , they could be soldered in the short term .
You can clean out the inside of the actuator with electrical contact cleaner , mine had a build up of carbon . I applied some small amount of high temp grease to the worm gear inside

 

[Cooper645]

Thanks @Wighty for the swift response.

I did a check of all the fuses and they are all ok.

I will do the PCV as a matter of course once this issue is resolved.

1 wire had already been re soldered in the actuator but that along with all other connections looked fine. Im hoping that the replacement arrives soon and works. I find it odd that there was no G Code on the gearbox side go the actuator though. Means I could be in for a world of hurt getting it replaced. Don't want to replace the complete turbo as it seems fine. There is no sticking on the actuator arm bit, it moves lovely and free and there's no excess play in the turbo.

If the actuator fixes the issue then ill do the PCV and get a STAR diagnostic run on the swirl flaps and then do the resistor mod once they're ruled out as being a potential issue.

 

[Wighty]

Thanks @Wighty for the swift response.

I did a check of all the fuses and they are all ok.

I will do the PCV as a matter of course once this issue is resolved.

1 wire had already been re soldered in the actuator but that along with all other connections looked fine. Im hoping that the replacement arrives soon and works. I find it odd that there was no G Code on the gearbox side go the actuator though. Means I could be in for a world of hurt getting it replaced. Don't want to replace the complete turbo as it seems fine. There is no sticking on the actuator arm bit, it moves lovely and free and there's no excess play in the turbo.

If the actuator fixes the issue then ill do the PCV and get a STAR diagnostic run on the swirl flaps and then do the resistor mod once they're ruled out as being a potential issue.

Good stuff buddy , if the resistor mod works , it means the swirl flaps are working and open , which is the time to do it . If the swirl flaps or the arm breaks , you can’t then do the 10p resistor fix . Or at least that’s how I understand it ! Might as well save the cost of a Star session ?

 

[Larkone]

You would be better off getting the actuator refurbed if you cannot match the numbers to the turbo, a s/hand one may not be the correct type for that turbo. Or get in touch with Carwoods and see if they can refurb or supply the correct actuator for that turbo.

 

[Cooper645]

I have a refurbed one on the way as the second hand one was going to take too long to arrive. It should be here by 1300hrs today.

I intend to remove check/clean the egr valve and then fit new actuator and clear codes, so fingers crossed once fitted and codes all cleared I’m back to happy motoring.

I would like to get a custom exhaust and Celtic tune put on but can’t do any of that until the car is sound.

I will of course keep this thread updated.