charging battery.

Janchee

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A lot of MXS 5 owners have said the same and if I recall correctly the MXS 7 and 10 do not exceed 14.8 v in any of the settings but the risk is not only to any of the VRLA batteries but to the sensitive electronic components of the car, with a healthy battery, the initial desulphation mode is only momentary but if the charger detects any perceived desulphation and as you can see from the chart I posted earlier, desulphation at 15.8v can last for up to 8 Hrs. In everyone's MB Owners manual the guideline is not to exceed 14.8v This is the spec of an MB branded CTEK charger.

Just put my MXS 5.0 on AGM mode for the E-class. I don't think (any?) are still fitted with Lithium-ion batteries now, but here it is from my owners manual. Says no more than 14.8v for AGM, and 14.4v for Lithium-Ion. It doesn't even spend a nano-second on de-sulphation phase (1) and goes straight to number two. Although, it should be easy for CTEK to correct the manual ... Many online forums discussing this stupid print.

Even though, I 'unlock' the car so the lights are on (i.e. a bit of drain just-in-case), and then turn on the trickle charger. Used many times up until now and seems OK :) I stay with the charger for 10 minutes or so and then go back each hour to check. :)

upload_2021-1-26_19-59-24.png
 

Tony Dyson

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Just put my MXS 5.0 on AGM mode for the E-class. I don't think (any?) are still fitted with Lithium-ion batteries now, but here it is from my owners manual. Says no more than 14.8v for AGM, and 14.4v for Lithium-Ion. It doesn't even spend a nano-second on de-sulphation phase (1) and goes straight to number two. Although, it should be easy for CTEK to correct the manual ... Many online forums discussing this stupid print.

Even though, I 'unlock' the car so the lights are on (i.e. a bit of drain just-in-case), and then turn on the trickle charger. Used many times up until now and seems OK :) I stay with the charger for 10 minutes or so and then go back each hour to check. :)

View attachment 65027

But don't you think the danger is IF the charger detects any sulphation, it will apply the 15.8v desulphation voltage to an AGM battery for up to 8 Hrs? The only reason you believe it currently only momentarily applies the desulphation stage is because it detects a healthy battery and omits the desulphation stage.
 
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DMK/Happy

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Diagnostic test carried out,glow plugs test pass!battery test fail!down voltage.New battery 95 AH fitted with guarantee.Ignition, heatplugs timeout,fire up.All is well again.
 

Janchee

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But don't you think the danger is IF the charger detects any sulphation, it will apply the 15.8v desulphation voltage to an AGM battery for up to 8 Hrs? The only reason you believe it currently only momentarily applies the desulphation stage is because it detects a healthy battery and omits the desulphation stage.

I agree there is a risk there and you have to observe it during the start of charging. I think because of this risk is the reason why CTEK haven’t pulled it out of the manual. I would’ve bought the MB charger, but wanted the CTEK 5.0 for motorbike and other bits. Plenty of forums on this haha and CTEK haven’t been that clear cut about it.
 

Janchee

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Diagnostic test carried out,glow plugs test pass!battery test fail!down voltage.New battery 95 AH fitted with guarantee.Ignition, heatplugs timeout,fire up.All is well again.

Glad it’s fixed :) Mercedes do some strange things even when battery is slightly low. Even though battery started car fine, stop start would hardly engage. From this, my window not going all the way up started doing it’s bit. Mercedes changed battery and not happened since :)
 
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DMK/Happy

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Glad it’s fixed :) Mercedes do some strange things even when battery is slightly low. Even though battery started car fine, stop start would hardly engage. From this, my window not going all the way up started doing it’s bit. Mercedes changed battery and not happened since :)
Yes and can throw A/T into limp mode on fire up as our honorable member pointed out to me earlier,so ultimate solution agreed, new battery.
 
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DMK/Happy

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Yes and can throw A/T into limp mode on fire up as our honorable member pointed out to me earlier,so ultimate solution agreed, new battery.
Just an after thought?Why would the malfunction read out not state low voltage at some stage,would seem obvious that it should!Save all the confusion around this issue in the first place.Tells me if licence plate bulb is out.
 

mbazk

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Hi, newbie here looking for help. I have a dead battery on my a 200 diesel, as I haven't moved it much on the last month.
I happen to have a trickle charger at home, but don't know how to identify what type of battery the car has, any tips, please? the car is from 2016, if that helps to provide context.

Thanks!
 

Srdl

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Hi, newbie here looking for help. I have a dead battery on my a 200 diesel, as I haven't moved it much on the last month.
I happen to have a trickle charger at home, but don't know how to identify what type of battery the car has, any tips, please? the car is from 2016, if that helps to provide context.

Thanks!
2016 would almost certainly be an AGM battery if that helps.
 

Janchee

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Hi, newbie here looking for help. I have a dead battery on my a 200 diesel, as I haven't moved it much on the last month.
I happen to have a trickle charger at home, but don't know how to identify what type of battery the car has, any tips, please? the car is from 2016, if that helps to provide context.

Thanks!
Hey, you can normally determine the battery by colour on outside (AGM = black) however, this isn’t definitive. The writing on the battery should help.
 

d215yq

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. An equalization charge cycle, having a higher voltage low current profile, may be occasionally utilised to partially reverse a battery sulphation condition; some SLA smart battery chargers either manually or automatically perform equalization cycles at infrequent times.

Apologies for Hijack but just reading over this interesting thread and don't understand this - surely the charger can only give a voltage and then the current that passes is determined by the resistance, so higher voltage = higher current? I ask as my solar AGM batteries say "Max 22,5A" on the side, yet all the inverters (anmd mine, depsite being on AGM mode) put in 40 or 50A . the voltage is limited to 14.4V which is under the battery limit (15.0V also on side of battery) and it seems to work so not sure where the 22.5A limit comes in and what it means, it seems all the inverters, including the best in the market, regulate the voltage and the current is then variable?

Essentially, all solar batteries, including those as parts of sets and with huge Ah ratings have the same warning between 20A and 30A written on them yet all inversors charge at max 60A (or 80/100A if more expensive/powerful)...??
 

Tony Dyson

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Apologies for Hijack but just reading over this interesting thread and don't understand this - surely the charger can only give a voltage and then the current that passes is determined by the resistance, so higher voltage = higher current? I ask as my solar AGM batteries say "Max 22,5A" on the side, yet all the inverters (anmd mine, depsite being on AGM mode) put in 40 or 50A . the voltage is limited to 14.4V which is under the battery limit (15.0V also on side of battery) and it seems to work so not sure where the 22.5A limit comes in and what it means, it seems all the inverters, including the best in the market, regulate the voltage and the current is then variable?

Essentially, all solar batteries, including those as parts of sets and with huge Ah ratings have the same warning between 20A and 30A written on them yet all inversors charge at max 60A (or 80/100A if more expensive/powerful)...??
Yes you have the basic principles but if a designer/manufacturer wants to limit the current flow to a device they will design a "Current Limiting Circuit" into the design, this will restrict the amount of current flow to a maximum allowed value, if you search for "Current Limiting Circuit" on your favourite search engine you'll find there's lots of published items on the various designs specific to different applications.
 

Painter16

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Can anyone tell me if this battery is a agm or not please,it is the consumer one in boot of my 2007 sl,it does not say anywhere on it that it is ,
A000 982 31 08/26
battery 12v 74ah 680A
thank you
 

Tony Dyson

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Can anyone tell me if this battery is a agm or not please,it is the consumer one in boot of my 2007 sl,it does not say anywhere on it that it is ,
A000 982 31 08/26
battery 12v 74ah 680A
thank you
Indications are that it isn't an AGM battery and is a standard wet or flooded battery, are the 6 screw caps removable on the top of the battery and the electrolyte available just covering the top of the lead plates?
This would also indicate that your car doesn't have the engine Stop/Start function as well.
 

Painter16

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Indications are that it isn't an AGM battery and is a standard wet or flooded battery, are the 6 screw caps removable on the top of the battery and the electrolyte available just covering the top of the lead plates?y

This would also indicate that your car doesn't have the engine Stop/Start function as well.
Hi thanks for reply carnt see any screw caps on top but could they be under the stickers on top off the battery there is a small black dot on top and says if goes white battery is dead, will remove stickers and see
 

Painter16

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So there is no screw caps it’s sealed ,but i have a old one in garage and if you shake it you an hear liguid moving around in it so what setting do I put it on when trickle chargeing using my cetek
 

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So there is no screw caps it’s sealed ,but i have a old one in garage and if you shake it you an hear liguid moving around in it so what setting do I put it on when trickle chargeing using my cetek
There are screw caps... you need to cut through the stickers on the top and then knock them round with a screwdriver to undo them
 

Tony Dyson

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So there is no screw caps it’s sealed ,but i have a old one in garage and if you shake it you an hear liguid moving around in it so what setting do I put it on when trickle chargeing using my cetek

Normal, wet or flooded charging programme NOT an AGM, VRLA or Repair programme unless your battery is disconnected from your car. As above you can get into these batteries and maintain the electrolyte levels by topping up with de-ionised water to increase battery life.
 

mbazk

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Hey, you can normally determine the battery by colour on outside (AGM = black) however, this isn’t definitive. The writing on the battery should help.
Thanks @Srdl and @Janchee. How can I best get to the battery to confirm it? I tried to remove the black plastic cover but it is quite tight :(
 


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