CLK 200 Kompressor Timing Issue

[Paul Mehew]

Thanks WIS CD Manual is on its way.

Stripped off the upper timing chain cover and serpentine belt. Now when I turn the crank to get to TDC, its still the same that it turns ok and no grinding noises, but crank slides past TDC so looks like I'll need to put the serpentine belt back on to get TDC again. Does this sound right?

 

[LostKiwi]

Serpentine has nothing to do with rotating the crank to TDC?

 

[Paul Mehew]

Thanks and agree. Just at the moment without the serpentine belt the crank won't sit at TDC. When I bring the crank round to TDC it keeps sliding past TDC which seemed odd. Could it be because the chain has slipped and exhaust and intake valve are off?

Once the parts and manual arrives, in my mind the next process will be:

- bring crank to TDC
- break chain (but keep in place)
-replace camshaft sprockets
- set both camshafts to correct alignment position
- install camshaft alignment tool
-attach new chain to old and rotate through to enable new chain to be linked together
- replace tensioner
- build engine back up, replace coolant, oils etc
- fire up engine (hopefully)

Does this sound about right at a high level. Anything else I need to bear in mind.
Thanks

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

I would time it as best you can to TDC on the camshafts, lock them in place and don't worry about where the crank is. Once you have set the cams, disconnect the chain and then move the crank to TDC. If the chain is stretched or the variator is jammed (probably the cause of chain stretch) then it will jump past TDC. Its a common thing to have happen.

 

[LostKiwi]

You are replacing the crank sprocket too (or at least inspecting it)?

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

Why?

 

[LostKiwi]

Why?

In my experience of chains once they stretch they wear every sprocket in the system.
Certainly the case on bikes, motorcycles, minis, Smarts and every other car I've worked on.
I appreciate the issue on these is cam sprockets made from brie but id still at least inspect the crank sprocket for signs of wear.

 

[star]

If your going to inspect it, you might as well replace it but it means a full front engine strip and auxiliaries plus head and sump. Why when they never give problems on this engine.

 

[LostKiwi]

If your going to inspect it, you might as well replace it but it means a full front engine strip and auxiliaries plus head and sump. Why when they never give problems on this engine.

Ok, if you say so.

 

[star]

Experience tells me so.

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

Its the variators that jam, thats why the teeth rip off, mainly because the chain runs vertical at a greater distance. The crank has the chain wrapped around it and is made from tougher material. That will be fine.

 

[Paul Mehew]

Thanks for the feedback. Just waiting for parts and most likely will be back in touch to get further advice

 

[Paul Mehew]

Tried just aligning the cams as suggested but I'm struggling to line up the cams with the markers. Nearest I can get is when the exhaust side is aligned with the marker but inlet marker is at 10:00 (attached photo). Crank TDC marker at this point is at 8:00. All seems way off. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

[star]

Yep that’s jumped and it’s also lost the teeth on sprockets.

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

i would be taking the head off i think.

 

[Paul Mehew]

I was hoping to avoid taking the head off but can see why. Is that advice because the valves may bent or because it's safer to change and align the camshaft sprockets off the engine? I did a compression test before starting work, they were low but understand if the timing is off the reading may be low:

1: 110 dry, 120 wet
2: 100 dry, 110 wet
3: 65 dry, 75 wet
4: 95 dry, 115 wet

Thanks

 

[Paul Mehew]

Sorry for the basic questions and lack of knowledge but weighing up all the options, what's the downside (and is this a viable option) if I:

- set one of the camsprockets to the correct position
- break the chain
- set 2nd camsprocket to correct position and lock it off
- replace the sprockets
- set crank to TDC and replace the chain

Presumably if the valves are bent and the engine still won't fire and I go back to square one but could doing this cause more damage?

 

[Steve@Avantgarde]

With all due respect mate, you should be half knowledgable enough to time the engine up and know its consequences, its that kind of repair.

If you have the locking cam tool just break the chain as close to TDC as you can. There are 2 marks on the top side of the camshaft body that line up with a marking on the head. Once you have done that, split the chain off and then move the crank to TDC. Once you have done that move the cams and lock with the plate.

Then you can replace the chain and the sprockets and re-link the chain back together.

But as you say, if the valves are bent, it won't go anyway, or if it did it would have a horrendous misfire. Cylinder 3 looks like it has low compression anyway.

 

[Paul Mehew]

Thanks. Never done anything on this scale before, so a big job for a novice. Appreciate the advice and feedback.

 

[star]

A quick check for bent valves is to set the cam lobe to have the valve fully closed and check to see if the follower/rocker is loose. If there is a big gap, then you have bent valves.
Here’s a cgi chain @ 70,000 miles.