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CLK 230 - Problems with opening the Trunk

Discussion in 'Electrics, Vacuum, Ignition and ECU' started by aidedecampe, Jan 15, 2020.

  1. aidedecampe

    aidedecampe New Member

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    Your Mercedes:
    CLK 230K/ 2001/ 145kW
    Dear all,

    I have owned a CLK 230 K for 10 years, before that is was my late fathers one, so therefore it is very dear to me.
    I hope that someone of you could give me some advice regarding the fact that my trunk is not possible to open.

    Description of the challenge:
    1. I can open the trunk hood with my steel key
    2. It is not possible to open the trunk hood with the button on my plastic key neither the button next to the drivers seat
    3. However if I take away the battery and connect it back again it is possible to open the trunk hood with the key and the button in the car for 6-7 times, that it does not work again?, very strange. The process is repeatable... (disconnect, works fine for 6-7 times, then not)
    4. FYI - the light in the boot does not work (I will exchange that)
    5. All fuses does look fine both in the trunk and in the engine compartment

    If somebody could help me out it would be awesome upload_2020-1-15_15-51-3.gif

    Thank you

    Andreas
    in Sweden, Europe
     
  2. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    Your Mercedes:
    '93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240, 02 R230 SL500 (Malcolm Spec), 04 Smart Roadster Coupe
    Can sometimes be the symptom of a failing PSE pump (the one used to generate vacuum/pressure to operate the locks).
     
  3. OP
    aidedecampe

    aidedecampe New Member

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    Hi LostKiwi!
    Thank you for the replay.
    1. Do you know how I could fix it?
    2. Is it not strange that it works for 6-7 times if I disconnect the battery?

    Thank you

    Andreas
     
  4. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    Your Mercedes:
    '93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240, 02 R230 SL500 (Malcolm Spec), 04 Smart Roadster Coupe
    Usually a replacement.
    You could try checking for water ingress as that's what usually kills them.

    It's exactly what r230s do when the pump starts to go south and they also come right with a disconnect reconnect.
     
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  5. RhodieBill

    RhodieBill Senior Member

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    Your Mercedes:
    W208 CLK320 182U ALMANDINE-BLACK METALLIC
  6. OP
    aidedecampe

    aidedecampe New Member

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    Thanks!
    But I do not understand why it works after a disconnect/ reconnect? what is the logic behind this?
    I mean, if it is damp due to water, it should not work at all or?

    Thank you all!
     
  7. Uncle Benz

    Uncle Benz Senior Member

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    If one branch of the PSE unit takes more than a set time to achieve the set pressure (usually because of a leak or sometimes a weak pump) the control unit turns that branch off to prevent the pump motor from overrunning and potentially burning out. Often it is six or seven cycles before the unit decides there is a fault and turns the branch off. I'd say that is exactly the problem you have. I'd examine the branch that feeds the boot locking unit first, including the bellows that actuates the lock with a soapy water spray. Look for bubbles when operating.
     
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  8. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    I'm only repeating what many have observed and that a new pump sorts it.
    It may be a timing issue which is marginal or the pump logs a soft error but after several occurrences recognises it as a permanent fault. That's why getting codes read is always a good idea.
     
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  9. OP
    aidedecampe

    aidedecampe New Member

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    Hi Uncle Benz!

    Great thanks for your replay.
    Do you know if there is a "how to" do this check of the branch? I am pretty technical but not a pneumatic expert... and I would like if it is possible to fix the problem without exchanging the whole unit like LostKiwi says (and I agree would be the best thing to do)

    Thank you!
     
  10. OP
    aidedecampe

    aidedecampe New Member

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    Hi again LostKiwi,
    Where does the "water ingress" appear? in the pneumatic tubes or in the circuit board?
    Thanks!
     
  11. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    Usually a leak into the boot. The PSE pump is surrounded by foam which then holds the water allowing it to soak into the pump where it eventually kills the electronics.
     
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  12. LCADE

    LCADE New Member

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    Your Mercedes:
    2009 SL350
    I have the same issue with my SL. Does anybody know some one who can refurbish a PSE pump in the London area?
    I tried Johnny SBC to no avail.
     
  13. RhodieBill

    RhodieBill Senior Member

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    Your Mercedes:
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    On my S500 I had the PSE Pump go on the blink - (as well as the Airmatic Pump).
    The PSE Unit on the S is very much the same just got more outlets - 9 if my memory serves me right.

    On the S the Fuse for the PSE Pump kept blowing - sometimes it would be intermittent but eventually it completely stopped, so for me everything stopped working - a right pain!

    Anyway, with mine I removed the unit and too it apart - not too hard - and noticed it was all clogged up with Carbon Dust in the tiny channels from the Self-Lubricating Vanes on the Impeller. This was causing the Pump to over work and the fail-safe is that it blows the Fuse, (61 I think under the rear seat).

    Anyway, I cleaned it all out and re-assembled the Pump, re-installed and it all worked as normal!

    NB. I also fixed the Airmatic Pump aswell at a cost of about £70 in parts o The Piston Ring and Cylinder Bore was knackered because the Pipe had split between the Pump and the Filter letting in all sorts of muck as the Location of the Pump is underneath the car behind the Bumper. Crazy place to put it!

    Here is a Video that more or less showed me the operations of the PSE Pump. And yes, the tightening procedure is a right pain!!!

    I'm not saying this is your problem, but it might help.... Good luck!

     
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