CLS320 CDI turbo not spooling

[Mr Filipov]

I am having a big problem with my car at the moment. Yes yet another one. It is starting to drive me to the point of getting rid but besides the point.

In the last 3 days I have started to lose the turbo all together. I will for example to a stop at a set of traffic lights and when I go to pull off no turbo. It will come back to life after I stop and restart the car but then it may or may not do it again. I know one of the MAF sensors is out and has been for a couple of months but surely this will not cause that to happen. I am not that in the know with that engine as this is my first Mercedes and I have only had it for a year. The car does not come up with anything on the dash or go into limp mode. Keeps on driving just no boost from the turbo. Is anyone able to give some advice as to what it could be?

I am sick of chucking money at it. That might just be the last bit to fix on it and then I will get rid.

 

[turbopete]

maf faults on a diesel CAN put it in a sort of permanent limp mode with no turbo boost. whether it would affect the gearbox i dont know as the one i had the MAF issue with had a manual box

 

[Mr Filipov]

Fair play. Does anyone know where that sensor lives so I can rip it out and replace the damn thing?

 

[Suprapaul]

Its going in to limp mode for a reason, and there can be several. My was doing exactly the same, and "kangarooing" when cold, then limping, then fine on restart.
STAR is the only way forward for diagnosis. My inlet port motor was causing my limp episodes, and I must say a new one has made an amazing difference. It was £525 fitted with new turbo seal, etc.

 

[Mr Filipov]

It will be looked at the MAFs are under way under what is left of my warranty I think but I will rush that as well. While shutting off the turbo is probably a preventative measure I can't see it being good for the engine.

 

[Suprapaul]

It shuts the turbo as a safety precaution. It does no harm to the engine, its there to prevent harm. It does, however, harm your pride when you can't beat a 1.0 Corsa off the line!

PS, if still under warranty, get it looked in to asap. Ask to see the STAR readout. Changing any sensor is a stab in the dark.

 

[Mr Filipov]

When it was last on a STAR only thing that popped up was indeed the MAF. This may have changed now but seen as this is already in the works I will get it done no matter what. While it is there I will get it hooked up again to check if there is something else as well.

 

[Mr Filipov]

Just had a word with the mechanic and he advised me it is not very likely it will be the MAFs. What it could be is the either the actuator or the inlet shutoff. Does that sound about right to anyone? It makes sense to me at least.

 

[star]

Guessing at MAF's on your will be an expensive exercise, get the faults read as you guy is along the right lines.

 

[Mr Filipov]

Im going there lunch time today. I know the MAFs are outstanding anyway. One was out last time the car was hooked up to a start. Going over today to hook it up again to see if there is anything else.

 

[Mr Filipov]

So a quick update. To pin point the problem the car needs to be in limp mode when I take it to the garage and of course it does not do it. Got told it is either the inlet shut off motor or the waste gate actuator. Being done under warranty hopefully I decided to opt out for the more expensive bit which is the inlet shut off motor when you include the labor. Will give an update as of when the work has been done.

 

[star]

The fault should have left a code in the ecu, the engine light doesn't have to be on. In some cases there maybe several faults stored (especially if things have been unplugged to see if it makes a difference), in which case you can clear them all and wait for it to happen again, then there should only be one fault logged.
You can also test each component on star by actuating and checking the figures are correct.

 

[Mr Filipov]

I do understand the theory behind it but unless the car is in limp mode which is not always doing that will only show normal values as everything is functioning as it should. The code only goes as far as saying losing turbo pressure. Or as far as I managed to get out of it.

 

[Mr Filipov]

A quick update. Whilst waiting to hear back from the warranty company to approve the inlet port motor, the issue has now turned into a permanent one with the engine light on the dash on as well. While I went for the inlet, I think that may have been the wrong the choice but that's a different subject really.

No power is now permanent. What makes me think I may have gone for the wrong thing as opposed to the wastegate actuator is when I revved the car last night while stationery, I could hear the boost build up in the turbo but there was the fluttering turbo sound when I came off the throttle, which to me indicates back pressure going to the turbo. I was also not able to hear any excess boost being released either. Either way it should be easier to pin point at this stage as it was before.

 

[Mr Filipov]

Update: had the inlet shutoff changed today, which may I add is not a cheap job to no avail. Still goes in limp mode. Oh well here I go another month with no spare money and a non working car...

Would not care about the money if the car at least worked like it should after it got changed. What sort of a specialist in Mercedes says the computer says low boost and it will either this or that? I am starting to question garages and my choices in life in general.

 

[V6Matty]

It's a few miles from you but speak with the guys at c&v cars at swavesy they have star and will be helpful either that or see if STAR (the guys that posted above) would be able to solve the problem.

 

[star]

Update: had the inlet shutoff changed today, which may I add is not a cheap job to no avail. Still goes in limp mode. Oh well here I go another month with no spare money and a non working car...

Would not care about the money if the car at least worked like it should after it got changed. What sort of a specialist in Mercedes says the computer says low boost and it will either this or that? I am starting to question garages and my choices in life in general.

Did you get a star diagnoses done or was it a guess at changing the inlet port motor? Did the garage who changed the port motor check for wear in the plastic linkages, as that can cause the inlet port motor to jam.

 

[Mr Filipov]

It's a few miles from you but speak with the guys at c&v cars at swavesy they have star and will be helpful either that or see if STAR (the guys that posted above) would be able to solve the problem.

I would love to go see someone that clearly knows what they are doing but at the moment I cannot as the car will go in limp and for at least one part of the journey I will have to pooter about hoping nothing else gets damaged in the process.

 

[Mr Filipov]

Did you get a star diagnoses done or was it a guess at changing the inlet port motor? Did the garage who changed the port motor check for wear in the plastic linkages, as that can cause the inlet port motor to jam.

STAR came up with low boost pressure and the guy said it was either the inlet shutoff or the wastegate actuator. Now I am not a gambling man but probably would have got more out of my moneys worth at the casino as I bit the bullet and went for the shutoff motor. May as well have invested in the private plate I wanted. Still would have had non running car so to speak but I would have looked better...

 

[star]

STAR came up with low boost pressure and the guy said it was either the inlet shutoff or the wastegate actuator. Now I am not a gambling man but probably would have got more out of my moneys worth at the casino as I bit the bullet and went for the shutoff motor. May as well have invested in the private plate I wanted. Still would have had non running car so to speak but I would have looked better...

If a genuine star machine came up with low boost pressure, I would have looked elsewhere rather then guessing at motors and done further checks, I would look for the obvious like missing boost pipe seals, split boost pipes, sticking egr etc etc. I certainly wouldn't be guessing at expensive parts if a proper diagnoses has not been carried out.