creaking noise when braking/turning

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SilverSaloon

SilverSaloon

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Your Mercedes
w124/1994/om606
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they said "steering collar kit" will fit my steering that has excessive play;

A1244600119 is the part number - £35.60 and 1.5 hours labour to do. i hope to maybe do this myself.

polybelt damper is A6042000214 - this looks easy to replace myself? they want 1 hour labour
 

Number_Cruncher

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Your Mercedes
1995 W124 E300D TE
>>A1244600119

Ah!, it's the bushes in the steering idler arm.

The only thing to get right if you DIY is to make sure the arm sits at the same height after you've finished - sometimes, you'll find the arm is shimmed - there's a washer that you don't get with the repair kit. But, you'll find this when you strip it down.

The damper is also easy - the upper bolt's obvious.

For the lower bolt: release the spring tension - slip the belt off one pulley to make it slack - rotate the arm around the pivot, and you should find just enough clearance between the lower bolt and water pump pulley to get it off.
 
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SilverSaloon

SilverSaloon

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721
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Your Mercedes
w124/1994/om606
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #43
>>A1244600119

Ah!, it's the bushes in the steering idler arm.

The only thing to get right if you DIY is to make sure the arm sits at the same height after you've finished - sometimes, you'll find the arm is shimmed - there's a washer that you don't get with the repair kit. But, you'll find this when you strip it down.

The damper is also easy - the upper bolt's obvious.

For the lower bolt: release the spring tension - slip the belt off one pulley to make it slack - rotate the arm around the pivot, and you should find just enough clearance between the lower bolt and water pump pulley to get it off.

thanks for the info - i plan to attempt these jobs once the SL is out of my garage. the dealer didnt think either of these were urgent
 
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SilverSaloon

SilverSaloon

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Joined
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Your Mercedes
w124/1994/om606
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #44
The damper is also easy - the upper bolt's obvious.

For the lower bolt: release the spring tension - slip the belt off one pulley to make it slack - rotate the arm around the pivot, and you should find just enough clearance between the lower bolt and water pump pulley to get it off.

Hi

I eventually got the engine damper ordered last week and replaced it.

Unfortunatly the lower bolt cannot unscrew enough to allow the old damper to slide off because it fouls against the water pump pully before the thread has cleared the bottom mount hole in the damper.

After twiddling my thumbs for a while, I finally decided to undo slightly the 5 (i think 5 anyway) small bolts that go around the water pump pully. i didnt completely undo these (as it would be a nightmare to get back on again without dismantling everything), but enough to make the pully tilt/move a few mm to get clearance for the damper to slide out. you can just about get a spanner in the gap to undo/retighten these if you remove the radiator cowl and slacken and take the belt off this one pully. i took some photos so will post them here. This means you dont have to remove the viscious fan or anything. access is limited in this area but by slackening the belt and undoing those bolts a bit got the job done.
 
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