Disabling EGR

[Alex Crow]

as above, pin numbers are marked on connectors at the ecu. all wiring was done in this area as it is a 'dry' enviroment.

 

[Naraic]

as above, pin numbers are marked on connectors at the ecu. all wiring was done in this area as it is a 'dry' enviroment.[/QUOTe)

I posted a photo in 41, was the same ecu you worked on in the E320cdi?

 

[dieselman]

I posted a photo in 41, was the same ecu you worked on in the E320cdi?

Yes. That was Oigles 270 cdi ECU and it appears the 320Cdi definitely uses the same connections, as suspected. Not surprising really as it's the same family of injection system.

The pins Alex used are

i did the 210 320cdi today.

connections were...
MAF sensor signal wire = pin24 connector no.4 yellow/white
EGR vacuum transducer power supply = pin37 connector no.3 red/black
EGR vacuum transducer switched earth = pin50 connector no.3 grey/black

 

[Naraic]

Yes. That was Oigles 270 cdi ECU and it appears the 320Cdi definitely uses the same connections, as suspected. Not surprising really as it's the same family of injection system.

The pins Alex used are

Thanks DM, the photo in 41 was the one I took of my own car.

 

[jks001]

EGR solenoid connectors

How many wires (cobections) does the egr solenoid have on E320 W210 CDI?

 

[dieselman]

How many wires (cobections) does the egr solenoid have on E320 W210 CDI?

2 wires, one connector.

 

[dieselman]

Thanks DM, the photo in 41 was the one I took of my own car.

If you are asking which is the correct ECU, it's the centre one, from there the connectors are numbered.

 

[jks001]

How many wires (connevtors) does the E320 cdi have on EGR solenoid?

 

[Naraic]

How many wires (connevtors) does the E320 cdi have on EGR solenoid?

Connevtors, cobections...what are you trying to say?

The answer is 2 as above BTW.

 

[jks001]

I connected third wire to IAT Signal instead of MAF signal and now it works great. Is that normal? My MAF has 5 connection , 1 -MAF signal, 2 - Sensor Power, 3- Sensor ground, 4 - IG1 Power, 5- IAT signal

 

[dieselman]

I connected third wire to IAT Signal instead of MAF signal and now it works great. Is that normal? My MAF has 5 connection , 1 -MAF signal, 2 - Sensor Power, 3- Sensor ground, 4 - IG1 Power, 5- IAT signal

You are the wrong way round, Pin 5 is MAF signal, so it appears you have connected properly now.

 

[pcg5224]

Just a quick post for those with less sophisticated EGR valves. I own a 1995 C220 D which does not have a MAF. The EGR valve is simply activated by vacuum from the ECU. After reading this thread I thought that I would try disconnecting it to see if I experienced any problems.

I disconnected the two vacuum pipes (one from EGR valve and the other from the butterfly valve in the inlet tract) and plugged the ends, then tied them up out of harms way in case I need to re-connect them. Car runs fine no other mods required.

Erratic idle problem has gone away (so I suspect the valve may have been sticking anyway) and engine running more smoothly. So I can now hopefully look forward to better MPG and a cleaner engine. So thanks to everyone on the forum for their contributions.

 

[rjevon]

Hi all,

I hate to lift my bonnet let alone do anything like this ..

Is there anyone in the Staffordshire / Derbyshire area that would be interested in providing this solution and applying it to my ML270 ?

Sounds fantastic, and the very clever people involved in making this thread an interesting read should be given a prize at a forth coming meet ;-)

Regards
Richard

 

[oigle]

Report on EGR disconnection effects

Have finally got my driving licence back after the boys in blue decided I needed a holiday from driving – points loss.
Have now left on another longish caravan trip through southern New South Wales – probably about 8 weeks all up.
This is now giving me my first real opportunity to evaluate the performance of the ML270 since I disconnected the EGR. Thought it was time someone gave a definitive report on the effects of EGR removal from the system, apart from the obvious - prevention of the gunk buildup and associated problems.
I have now done about 1500km on this trip and am more than happy with the result. Comments are as follows:-
1. Turbo spools up more readily – whistles more noticeably on light throttle when cold. Boost seems to come in earlier.
2. The auto tranny took quite a while to re-train itself. It was hanging on to higher gears longer than I wanted it to. Perhaps the apparent extra available torque at lower revs seemed to “tell” the auto to hang on to the gear. I started using the tip shift to change at the points I wanted and it seemed to learn as it is now changing down seamlessly at the right points. The trip has involved quite a bit of hill climbing as I am following the “Great Dividing Range” down through the state. Altitude variances of around 800 metres (2500ft) makes for lots of hill climbing.
3. There is an apparent improvement of around 5% in economy compared to previous trips but I can’t be too sure on that point as I have not done a proper comparison on the same roads. The tankful I used prior to my leaving home was a definite 5% improvement tho’. That was in normal surburban use without towing. I am keeping a log of the entire trip. I used to average 8kpl towing previously so will see where the averages come out at the end of this one. So far, about 8.5kpl.
4. There is a very noticeable improvement in the power delivery from the motor. No hesitation anywhere, hot or cold, and a steady stream of torque everywhere. There appears to be more power/torque available too, but cannot state that categorically as I have no figures – just seat of the pants. The motor “sound” has changed in some areas of the rev range and sounds a bit like a v8 petrol when working hard.
Only downside is the extra time taken for warmup of engine. Quite significant. Hopefully will be better in summer.
Will give a followup report at end of trip. Would like to hear from other members as to their experience since doing the shunt.

 

[stumo]

Only downside is the extra time taken for warmup of engine. Quite significant.

Hmmm, I was going to do the EGR mod, but now I'm having second thoughts. The warmup on ours is really quite slow anyway, I'd say about 10 minutes constant driving to get to 70 deg.

I've not done the EGR mod yet, but we 95% of the time only do very short trips in ours, ie about 5 minutes. So most of the time it doesn't even get to normal operating temp (normal is usually around 70 on the dial, 80 on really hot days).

Roughly how much longer is the warmup now Oigle? Do you think a new thermostat would help?

 

[Naraic]

Hmmm, I was going to do the EGR mod, but now I'm having second thoughts. The warmup on ours is really quite slow anyway, I'd say about 10 minutes constant driving to get to 70 deg.

I've not done the EGR mod yet, but we 95% of the time only do very short trips in ours, ie about 5 minutes. So most of the time it doesn't even get to normal operating temp (normal is usually around 70 on the dial, 80 on really hot days).

Roughly how much longer is the warmup now Oigle? Do you think a new thermostat would help?

I actually think you are running too cool. Normal should be 87-88 degrees. Maybe a new thermostat is required.

 

[Alex Crow]

as above, thermostat problems are almost guaranteed at some time on these engines, i suggest you change it.

 

[television]

And me for the third,, I cannot see any connection with the EGR and warming up

 

[dieselman]

And me for the third,, I cannot see any connection with the EGR and warming up

These engines use a water cooler to cool the recirculated exhaust gas before passing it into the intake manifold. The impact of not passing hot gas through the heat exchanger and the greater volume of cold air drawn by the engine does cool the engine more than with EGR running.

 

[oigle]

Hmmm, I was going to do the EGR mod, but now I'm having second thoughts. The warmup on ours is really quite slow anyway, I'd say about 10 minutes constant driving to get to 70 deg.

I've not done the EGR mod yet, but we 95% of the time only do very short trips in ours, ie about 5 minutes. So most of the time it doesn't even get to normal operating temp (normal is usually around 70 on the dial, 80 on really hot days).

Roughly how much longer is the warmup now Oigle? Do you think a new thermostat would help?

As above, you do need a new thermostat. Should run around 85 degrees with a new one. Extra warmup time is quite substantial. Another member had his running at about your temp and fitted a new thermo and it went straight to 85. He said the warmup was still quite slow though. Probably takes a good 10 minutes of normal driving to get to proper temp. From memory, I reckon that is about double the time it usd to take. The lack of heat input from the egr heat exchanger is very noticeable - still runs perfectly well during this time tho'. Diesels aren't all that good on really short running at the best of times so this can only make it worse in that regard.