E w210 springs front and rear how to replace

[retro w124 w210]

So did you say the rear hight is different on both sides.?
See if the suspension levels out over the next few days maybe.?
The spring pads are for changing the ride right, like I sad I had trouble with mine when I put new springs in (lots higher after).
It could be you rear adjustabe suspension or a load sensing valve, double check everything.

 

[dieselman]

Probably either the springs are wrong/faulty or not correctly located in the cups.

 

[m davies]

Excellent tutorial, went from 40mm lowered back to standard as it was scrubbing tyres badly from previous owner, went to MB and the nice man spent quite a while making sure the correct springs were ordered for my model, a little expensive but guaranteed to be spot on for the weight.

Rears went in really easy, front not so easy, followed the OP but found when undoing the upper ball joint I could not push the lower wish bone low enough as the brake hose was very taut, gentle use of spring compressor and much blue air resolved. However on the other front I popped the lower ball joint out of the wish bone as well as the drop link and damper and easily managed to get plenty of clearance to pop the spring in with a little compression. On my W210 E280 I couldn't get the ball joint out of the hub so found it easier to pop it from the wish bone.

Ride height is a little high still but it might settle, according to MB rubbers should be 5 and 3 pips rear/front, one in there were 4 and 1 so a little nose down which I actually prefer, before it was tail heavy by 10mm.

Now have a set of lowering springs to get rid of cheap.

Once again, thanks for the tutorial, much appreciated.

Best

Michael

 

[K300]

raking up an old thread, but shows how useful this forum is, after selling the W124 and getting the W210 E240 estate out of storage the MOT man found a broken rear spring

Did most of the job but was thinking surely I don't have to undo the main pivot bolt for the suspension arm to get the spring out, so checked on here and hey presto the answer is there, yes I do.
Thanks for the write up, much appreciated.

 

[K300]

now done mine and I've put it on here
http://carmatrix.co.uk/mercedes-rear-spring.htm

 

[stuboy]

W210 Front Spring Replacment addendum

Hi Guys
Just done one of my front springs (old one had 80mm broken off at the bottom) so I thought I would add my comment to the great guide that "Retro" has written the first essential is to assemble the correct tools, here's a list:-

1)Torx T50 drop link to lower arm
2)Torx T40 Wheel speed sensor
3) Reverse Torx also called Star Drive E10 Anti Roll Bar chassis mount
4) Ball joint separator or Big Crow Bar & sledge hammer, steering arm & top steering arm ball joint.
5) 16mm ring spanner & socket Shock lower mount
6) 17mm spanner & socket lots of things!
7) 18mm socket spanner brake caliper bolts
8) 22mm ring spanner Steering arm joint

If you think you will get away with poor quality tools on this job, stop immediately and take it to a garage! I snapped one of my T50's in the drop link joint and had to use a great deal of torque & effort in order to get some of the other bolts & joints apart.

Ok On with my procedure addendum added to Retro's original:-

Jack up
I drove mine up my ramps first then removed plastic sump cover and place axle stands both sides under the front arms at the back allowing the arm to move down freely with no restriction.
I used a big axle stand under the rubber mount on the middle rear of the sub chassis cross beam & then used a 2 ton car jack to get the wheel off the ramp, then pulled the ramp out and put in sideways under the jacking point just in case I also removed the rubber mud flaps. This gives you plenty of room to work.
Once you have done that remove the steering arm, this will need a good tap with a hammer (or a massive clobber with the sledge hammer, yes i really mean it! be careful to use wood and undo the nut flush with the top of the bolt or you'll wreck it, my ball joint splitter broke when i tried it on this!) but watch you don't damage the rubber, (its best to use a ball joint splitter just be patient with it).


Then remove the anti roll bar bolts from the chassis and lower arm link rod (this has screwlock on it and needed to be screwed out a few turns and back in before it would come out, make sure you have a Torx T50 with a socket wrench adapter as in the picture, it was bastard tight!) (see pic 1,2).

I should have removed the brake caliper at this point (2x18mm bolts) and the wheel sensor (2xTorx T40) as my spring would not come out as the brake line is too short! I propped the caliper on some blocks at the back of the wheel arch out of the way, oh be careful to put the caliper back on before bolting anything else together cos u might be stupid enough to have the brake line stuck the wrong side of the shock, doh, what idiot would do that i ask you!

After you have done that then remove the top arm ball joint (pic 3) use plenty of wd40 on all the bolts. ( I used a 1m crow bar to get this off, again it was no joke to do!)

Remove the lower shocker bolt, (jack the lower arm up with a jack so it is about level else you won't be able to get the bolt out without bending the mount) this should make the arm go free and limp, then use a bar on the chassis and arm, leaver down and remove the spring (remember the slight tension on spring) pic4

Clean the lower seat for the new spring and place in position now jack the arm back up just make sure it locates in the top mount rubber properly. pic5

Refit shocker bolt and top balljoint nut. using the jack again to get the lower arm to the right height.
Refit anti roll bar bolts (easier to bolt on drop link first) to chassis and arm.
Refit steering arm.
Double check all bolt are secure then fit wheel.
remove axle stands then Lower vehicle back on the ground. Refit plastic sump cover.

job done.

 

[w210chap]

My W210 failed its MOT yesterday - a broken front spring (right near the end of the spring so I hadn't noticed the effect through driving), and excess ball joint play, amongst others. As part of the repairs the garage (I didn't have time to do this myself) changed the front wishbones/main suspension arms as well as the springs. They haven't replaced the ball joints yet (waiting for part) but now there's a knocking noise coming from the suspension (one side) whenever I go over any small bumps. The mechanic has shown me that the drop links (which are about 2 years old) are now touching the main suspension arm and this is causing the knocking noise. However when he drove it with the bottom of the drop link undone it still made the noise. The car's going back to the mechanic soon for the ball joints to be replaced and new drop links and ARB bushes to be put on. Hope this fixes the knocking noise (ie by providing the necessary clearance between the arm and the drop link). None of the posts in this thread seem to have come across this problem (although none of them also replaced the main suspension arm too) but just thought this might be a suitable gotcha to add to this thread.

 

[tjamesbo]

Good stuff on here I hope to follow on the 210 & 202 once my 124 is sorted